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#1 (permalink) |
Tilted
Location: 3 feet high and rising
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Check engine light - 2000 Civic
Has anyone here had to deal with CEL (code 22) on a 2000 Honda Civic Si?
From http://www.vtecnik-si.com/engine_code.htm - - - 22 - VTEC System Malfunction: Short or open in VTEC circuit, bad VTEC solenoid valve, Bad VTEC pressure switch I am just wondering how tight I need to grab my ankles... c_b
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#2 (permalink) |
Tone.
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This could be trouble if it's your valve and you rev it high enough for it to switch over to the high cam profile- - - if the valve chooses that moment to die, it would mean that it would not go back to the low profile, which means your idle will be crap at best. I'd grab a copy of the helms manual for that car and run all the recommended tests. That'll highlight the bad part.
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#4 (permalink) |
Myrmidon
Location: In the twilight and mist.
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this may seem stupid, but..
change you O2 sensor,. I know the code its giving you, but I've heard of a new 02 sensor curing weirder problems than this... its a 5 dollar part, so just go get one, slap it in, and see if the light goes out..
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Ron Paul '08 Vote for Freedom Go ahead and google Dr. Ron Paul. You'll like what you read. ![]() |
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#5 (permalink) |
More Freedom, Less Bullshit
Location: Tulsa, OK
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I wish O2 sensors were 5 dollars. A new Bosch for my car is $57. But you should definitely have a mechanic familiar with VTEC engines (ie dealer) check out your problem. And definitely don't cross the VTEC threshold till then.
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-Erik Stupid people shouldn't breed. |
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#6 (permalink) |
Psycho
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
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O2 sensors are no where near $5...especially japanese machines. your probably looking at $60 or so for an O2.
and depending on where this O2 sensor is...you may need to take it in to a mechanic. i've got a 1999 mercury cougar (now i know its not a honda) and it has 4 O2 sensors...two before the cat and two after the cat. but you may be grabbing your ankles and going for a ride, cuzz that doesnt sound quite like an O2 sensor. |
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#7 (permalink) |
Upright
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to fix this problem all you have hold down the trip odometer button then turn the key in the ignition until the dash lights come on and turn it no further. hold the odometer button until the check engine light goes off. problem fixed. I hope you didn't waste any money yet. Peace
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#9 (permalink) |
Tilted
Location: 3 feet high and rising
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I haven't spent any money yet, but I am not sure I want to simply ignore the CEL when there very well may be a problem.
However, your trick to clear the CEL sounds easier than removing the wire from the negative terminal for 10 min... I am trying to get a good book so I can run some diagnostics (though I am a true car novice) before I take it in. c_b
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#10 (permalink) |
Is In Love
Location: I'm workin' on it
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How many miles do you have on the car?
I know when my check engine light came on it was at 8000 and then 10000 miles. Hopefully it's nothing and you don't have to take it in.
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Absence is to love what wind is to fire. It extinguishes the small, it enkindles the great. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
More Freedom, Less Bullshit
Location: Tulsa, OK
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Quote:
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-Erik Stupid people shouldn't breed. |
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#12 (permalink) |
Upright
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If you have just recently had your oil changed by anyone besides Honda your CEL will most likely come on. For example Jiffy Lube never does the trick that i stated above. If you take care of your car and everything you CEL should not be on. I also think that if your CEL doesn't go off after the trip odometer trick that I told you was completed, then you very well might have a problem that could use some attention. So bottom line, if there is a problem, your CEL light will not go off after doing the trip odometer thing. Hope that satisfies Elitegibson. Peace
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#13 (permalink) |
Tilted
Location: 3 feet high and rising
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I spoke with my service rep today and he said (off the cuff - I didn't even mention resetting the CEL) "whatever you do don't let anyone clear it because we will be back at square one"
I (like I said previously) don't know too much about cars, but I do know that when you CEL comes on data is written to the computer about the conditions of the car when the CEL was tripped like speed, RPMs and of course the MIL code. Maybe that data disappears when you clear the CEL. I would've figured that there would be a logfile of some sort, but hey - I'm no expert. I am just sharing this strictly as FYI. I was kind of surprised he mentioned that without any reference to the possibility on my part. Maybe he just figured I knew more than I do since I pulled the code. At any rate, I should know more on Monday when I take it in. For now I am going to put some oil in since it seems to be a bit low. I miss my baby. She just isn't the same w/o her VTEC engagin', high revvin shenanigans : ) c_b
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nothing to see here Last edited by clues_blues; 10-23-2003 at 12:48 PM.. |
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#14 (permalink) |
The Cover Doesn't Match The Book
Location: in a van down by the river
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if the car runs good, and all the gauges read normal, it's your o2 sensor.....fix? either a small piece of black tape or pull the bulb. both are pretty cheap.
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#15 (permalink) |
Thank You Jesus
Location: Twilight Zone
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Holding in the trip reset, resets the maint. light not the CEL.
An O2 sensor will not fix it, if you had a bad O2 the would be an O2 code. I can post the specs for checking the vtec valve and pressure sensor for you but will not be able to untill later.
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#16 (permalink) | |
Tilted
Location: 3 feet high and rising
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Quote:
c_b
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#17 (permalink) |
Thank You Jesus
Location: Twilight Zone
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OK Clue here you go,
First you will need a volt meter, or preferably a digital volt meter, Disconnect the vtec pressure switch connector from the switch, it is on the back of the cylinder head, it has a blue wire with a black tracer line on it, Check for continuity across the switch in the head, (if you do not have a meter that can do this you will need to make a test wire.) PM me and I can tell you how to make one. If you do not have continuity at the switch the switch is no good. Turn the key on and check for power at the blue/black wire it should be there. It looks to be either the pressure switch or the vtec solenoid is not working. the tests for the solenoid need a DVOM,(digital volt ohm meter) if you have one let me know and I can give you the rest of the tests. I hope this helped.
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Where is Darwin when ya need him? |
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#19 (permalink) |
Tilted
Location: 3 feet high and rising
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OK The results are in...
The code Honda pulled with their computer was: P1259 VTEC System Failure Apparently since my oil was extremely low VTEC registered a fault (the service advisor explained it slightly better.) My car had only gone about 3K miles since my last oil change but it was really, really low. The last time I had my car in my oil light was on for the same reason. They checked the plugs for excessive oil burn and verified that there were no leaks. The SA told me that cars with VTEC do [burn?] [consume?] more oil than a non-VTEC and that it was nothing to be overly concerned about unless the problem worsens. I have been instructed to check my oil level around every 4th gas tank. It seems plausable I guess - I am sure they would have taken me for everything I was worth if they could have if they could have ID'd any additional problems... This was a dealership after all. I am still troubled by the fact that if my car had such a low amount of oil that it didn't trip the oil-pressure light. I thought there was a pretty consistant correlation between oil level and oil pressure. Mabye the CEL supercedes the oil light? Anyways, thanks everyone for your help and "ear" Back over 5500 : ) c_b
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nothing to see here Last edited by clues_blues; 10-27-2003 at 03:32 PM.. |
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Tags |
2000, check, civic, engine, light |
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