I'm going to look at this car tomorrow - any tips? - Tilted Forum Project Discussion Community

bodypainter · 07-25-2003, 01:10 PM

Wish I'd thought to post a couple days ago, but...

Traveling north tomorrow to look at this car -

http://www.collectorcartraderonline....0/48600260.htm

I've had a couple Mustangs in my past (a 65 & a 69 back in the 70's) but have never shopped a car this old. It seems to be a decent price and condition based on other searching I've done. Any tips for looking at 30 year old collectible type cars? I'm guessing it'll not have any really obvious problems but that an experienced person might spot potential problems. TIA!

Ashton · 07-25-2003, 05:45 PM

Looks like a nice car, I checked the vin number and it matches what they say......

2F03H209081 =

2 = 1972

F = production plant 'Dearborn Michigan"

03 = Convertible

H = 351 Cleaveland with a 2 barrel carb..... 163 horse / 277 ft. pounds torque

20,9081 = production number

Other than the obvious (poor repairs - mismatched paint) the few things to look for in a convertible is the condition of the top and the workings of the top mechanism..... put the top up and look behind the left and right side of the top mechanism, there is a Hydraulic cylinder on each side to raise and lower the top..... if there is rust on the shafts use this as a reason to lower the price

Check the Radiator for any signs of corrosion or leaks, a new brass radiator will cost about $300...... also check the weatherstripping, no one likes a leaky convertible

hotzot · 07-25-2003, 07:05 PM

gas must be cheap where you live.

JStrider · 07-25-2003, 07:43 PM

mmmm nice lookin car... id definently drive it...

miked10270 · 07-26-2003, 07:06 AM

Looks stunning & if that's your thing then go for it.

With almost any car of that age the real enemy's going to be RUST. With any convertible, I'd be pretty paranoid about the passenger floors and the sills. It rains, there's the chance that some time in the last 30 years that car has been caught in the rain with the top down, and off goes the perfect damp conditions for the floor & inner sills to start rotting!

The big mustangs are now very collectible. just remember that before this car got old enough to be collectible & desirable, it went through about 10-15 years of being just old. Before it was restored to it's present glory it was probably somebody's clunker.

Try & check ownership history & torooughly check the quality of any repairs, especially on the bodywork (is there a professional vehicle inspection service available - perhaps through the Automobile Association of America?).

Mechanical repairs & refurbishment are relatively easy. Bodywork repairs can easily swallow a real $hitload of money.

Good luck,

Mike.

Scorps · 07-26-2003, 10:51 AM

The only FORD I like.

deportes · 07-26-2003, 04:18 PM

looks good, take a magnet and look for bondo near the wheels

bodypainter · 07-26-2003, 05:07 PM

Okay, I've seen & driven it and am still uncertain.

The good news - it looks great with not a sign of rust anywhere. The interior isn't perfect, but it's pretty damn good. Since I'm looking at this car for a semi-daily driver (and not a show car), that's fine with me. The engine has obviously been breathed on a little bit. When I pulled out onto the road it easily chirped the tires when it shifted to 2nd. It has about the right amount of rumble in the motor for my tastes. The idle is rough but I'm quite sure it isn't a stock cam so that's to be expected. Everything works. There's absolutely nothing I'd need to do to it on taking possession.

The bad news - it drives like an early 70's Detroit car, lacking the tightness and precision of modern cars. The nose of this car is loooong and visibility up front is poor. I didn't realize this model was that much longer than my old '69 Mustang was. I'm sure I'd get used to it but I'm not positive I want to.

I'll make a decision this weekend. It brought back memories, that's for sure, and I'm about ready for a 2nd childhood car. Hmmm....

Picturage:
From the back - top up
The interior
The engine
From the front - top down
Backing out for a test drive

newman · 07-27-2003, 02:02 AM

Very nice looking car. If it runs nice i'd snatch it up, just don't pay what he's asking

Never pay what they're asking.

ssander9 · 07-27-2003, 04:20 AM

If it runs good and doesn't have any rust go for it....Be sure to open the trunk and move anything you have to to look at the trunks floorpan for any signs of rust. Then look to the left and right around the rear wheel wells for hints of rust or bondo., look around the front and rear glass for sings of rust repairs. Note: some imperfection is to be expected due to age, but don't buy a rustbucket, it will look like hell in about 3 years with paint bubbles and paint popping off. Crank it up and let it run or drive it for at least 30 minutes at slow speeds with the a/c on, then cut it off and check for coolant leaks around the radiator, hoses, water pump, intake manifold and cylinder heads. Look for signs of green flakey residue at these spots indicating a past or current leak. Be sure when you open the hood after driving it make sure there isn't a sweet smell of burning anti-freeze or oil.
If you think there is a problem somewhere and you really want the car ask the seller any question about any problem you find and expect a good answer. Lastly...get back in the car drive it again and listen for any strange noises and all electrical is working like all speeds on the a/c fan, guages, lights, the speedo is working, the brakes don't pull to one side when stopping. Make sure the trans shifts okay without slipping between gears,
then stop, floor it and see if it has positive traction by looking for two rubber marks where you spun the tires.

If all this checks out, ask about the history of the car and get documents if you can to back it up. When it comes time for resale down the road a muscle car is worth more if you can backup the history of the car (how many owners-ever wrecked-show car winner-drag car winner etc.)

350Z · 07-27-2003, 08:49 AM

thats a nice car, but I liked the late 60s model better. oil owned pony cars by 72.

Moonduck · 07-27-2003, 01:30 PM

Pretty. I had a '71, great car. The '71-73 Mustangs were the longest and the lowest of the pre-Mestang II era. I actually got pretty darned good handling out of mine. Took it to a tire shop and drove them mad by requesting various sizes until I found the meatiest piece of rubber I could stuff under the front and still maintain clearance. Then I spent some serious time reworking the front-end and replacing all the soft parts.

Give it some love and it'll give you better handling than any of the older Mustangs.

07-25-2003, 01:10 PM	#1 (permalink)
bodypainter Psycho Location: Sarasota	I'm going to look at this car tomorrow - any tips? Wish I'd thought to post a couple days ago, but... Traveling north tomorrow to look at this car - http://www.collectorcartraderonline....0/48600260.htm I've had a couple Mustangs in my past (a 65 & a 69 back in the 70's) but have never shopped a car this old. It seems to be a decent price and condition based on other searching I've done. Any tips for looking at 30 year old collectible type cars? I'm guessing it'll not have any really obvious problems but that an experienced person might spot potential problems. TIA!

07-25-2003, 07:05 PM	#3 (permalink)
hotzot We're having potato pancakes! Location: stalag 13	gas must be cheap where you live. __________________ The Bully Boys are here!

07-25-2003, 07:43 PM	#4 (permalink)
JStrider Poo-tee-weet? Location: The Woodlands, TX	mmmm nice lookin car... id definently drive it... __________________ -=JStrider=- ~Clatto Verata Nicto

07-26-2003, 10:51 AM	#6 (permalink)
Scorps Lost!! Location: Kingston, Ontario	The only FORD I like. __________________ A.K.A. PainTrain

07-27-2003, 02:02 AM	#9 (permalink)
newman Upright Location: San Marcos, CA	Very nice looking car. If it runs nice i'd snatch it up, just don't pay what he's asking Never pay what they're asking. __________________ -woot-

07-25-2003, 05:45 PM	#2 (permalink)
Ashton PORNHOUND Location: California	Looks like a nice car, I checked the vin number and it matches what they say...... 2F03H209081 = 2 = 1972 F = production plant 'Dearborn Michigan" 03 = Convertible H = 351 Cleaveland with a 2 barrel carb..... 163 horse / 277 ft. pounds torque 20,9081 = production number Other than the obvious (poor repairs - mismatched paint) the few things to look for in a convertible is the condition of the top and the workings of the top mechanism..... put the top up and look behind the left and right side of the top mechanism, there is a Hydraulic cylinder on each side to raise and lower the top..... if there is rust on the shafts use this as a reason to lower the price Check the Radiator for any signs of corrosion or leaks, a new brass radiator will cost about $300...... also check the weatherstripping, no one likes a leaky convertible

07-26-2003, 07:06 AM	#5 (permalink)
miked10270 Banned Location: Scotland	Looks stunning & if that's your thing then go for it. With almost any car of that age the real enemy's going to be RUST. With any convertible, I'd be pretty paranoid about the passenger floors and the sills. It rains, there's the chance that some time in the last 30 years that car has been caught in the rain with the top down, and off goes the perfect damp conditions for the floor & inner sills to start rotting! The big mustangs are now very collectible. just remember that before this car got old enough to be collectible & desirable, it went through about 10-15 years of being just old. Before it was restored to it's present glory it was probably somebody's clunker. Try & check ownership history & torooughly check the quality of any repairs, especially on the bodywork (is there a professional vehicle inspection service available - perhaps through the Automobile Association of America?). Mechanical repairs & refurbishment are relatively easy. Bodywork repairs can easily swallow a real $hitload of money. Good luck, Mike.

07-26-2003, 04:18 PM	#7 (permalink)
deportes Psycho	looks good, take a magnet and look for bondo near the wheels

07-26-2003, 05:07 PM	#8 (permalink)
bodypainter Psycho Location: Sarasota	Okay, I've seen & driven it and am still uncertain. The good news - it looks great with not a sign of rust anywhere. The interior isn't perfect, but it's pretty damn good. Since I'm looking at this car for a semi-daily driver (and not a show car), that's fine with me. The engine has obviously been breathed on a little bit. When I pulled out onto the road it easily chirped the tires when it shifted to 2nd. It has about the right amount of rumble in the motor for my tastes. The idle is rough but I'm quite sure it isn't a stock cam so that's to be expected. Everything works. There's absolutely nothing I'd need to do to it on taking possession. The bad news - it drives like an early 70's Detroit car, lacking the tightness and precision of modern cars. The nose of this car is loooong and visibility up front is poor. I didn't realize this model was that much longer than my old '69 Mustang was. I'm sure I'd get used to it but I'm not positive I want to. I'll make a decision this weekend. It brought back memories, that's for sure, and I'm about ready for a 2nd childhood car. Hmmm.... Picturage: From the back - top up The interior The engine From the front - top down Backing out for a test drive

07-27-2003, 04:20 AM	#10 (permalink)
ssander9 Amplitude Modulator Location: US	If it runs good and doesn't have any rust go for it....Be sure to open the trunk and move anything you have to to look at the trunks floorpan for any signs of rust. Then look to the left and right around the rear wheel wells for hints of rust or bondo., look around the front and rear glass for sings of rust repairs. Note: some imperfection is to be expected due to age, but don't buy a rustbucket, it will look like hell in about 3 years with paint bubbles and paint popping off. Crank it up and let it run or drive it for at least 30 minutes at slow speeds with the a/c on, then cut it off and check for coolant leaks around the radiator, hoses, water pump, intake manifold and cylinder heads. Look for signs of green flakey residue at these spots indicating a past or current leak. Be sure when you open the hood after driving it make sure there isn't a sweet smell of burning anti-freeze or oil. If you think there is a problem somewhere and you really want the car ask the seller any question about any problem you find and expect a good answer. Lastly...get back in the car drive it again and listen for any strange noises and all electrical is working like all speeds on the a/c fan, guages, lights, the speedo is working, the brakes don't pull to one side when stopping. Make sure the trans shifts okay without slipping between gears, then stop, floor it and see if it has positive traction by looking for two rubber marks where you spun the tires. If all this checks out, ask about the history of the car and get documents if you can to back it up. When it comes time for resale down the road a muscle car is worth more if you can backup the history of the car (how many owners-ever wrecked-show car winner-drag car winner etc.) __________________ I never said you had to.

07-27-2003, 08:49 AM	#11 (permalink)
350Z Upright Location: Georgia	thats a nice car, but I liked the late 60s model better. oil owned pony cars by 72.

07-27-2003, 01:30 PM	#12 (permalink)
Moonduck Junkie Location: SE USA	Pretty. I had a '71, great car. The '71-73 Mustangs were the longest and the lowest of the pre-Mestang II era. I actually got pretty darned good handling out of mine. Took it to a tire shop and drove them mad by requesting various sizes until I found the meatiest piece of rubber I could stuff under the front and still maintain clearance. Then I spent some serious time reworking the front-end and replacing all the soft parts. Give it some love and it'll give you better handling than any of the older Mustangs.