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If it runs good and doesn't have any rust go for it....Be sure to open the trunk and move anything you have to to look at the trunks floorpan for any signs of rust. Then look to the left and right around the rear wheel wells for hints of rust or bondo., look around the front and rear glass for sings of rust repairs. Note: some imperfection is to be expected due to age, but don't buy a rustbucket, it will look like hell in about 3 years with paint bubbles and paint popping off. Crank it up and let it run or drive it for at least 30 minutes at slow speeds with the a/c on, then cut it off and check for coolant leaks around the radiator, hoses, water pump, intake manifold and cylinder heads. Look for signs of green flakey residue at these spots indicating a past or current leak. Be sure when you open the hood after driving it make sure there isn't a sweet smell of burning anti-freeze or oil.
If you think there is a problem somewhere and you really want the car ask the seller any question about any problem you find and expect a good answer. Lastly...get back in the car drive it again and listen for any strange noises and all electrical is working like all speeds on the a/c fan, guages, lights, the speedo is working, the brakes don't pull to one side when stopping. Make sure the trans shifts okay without slipping between gears,
then stop, floor it and see if it has positive traction by looking for two rubber marks where you spun the tires.
If all this checks out, ask about the history of the car and get documents if you can to back it up. When it comes time for resale down the road a muscle car is worth more if you can backup the history of the car (how many owners-ever wrecked-show car winner-drag car winner etc.)
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I never said you had to.
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