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Old 08-09-2006, 03:49 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Car often cuts out when idle.

Hiya

Just looking for a bit of insight as to why my car keeps stopping. About 75% of the time now I would say it just cuts out sitting at an intersection etc. 3 weeks ago it wasn't happening, but has gradually gotten worse. Is there a common reason(s) for this? If so, what are they and what steps should I be taking to fix it? Thanks for any information you guys can provide. I'm looking to sell it in the very near future so it needs to be fixed . Car information is as follows:

1985 Nissan Pulsar
1300cc (i think)
Manual
FWD
3 door
no modifications in the 2 years I've owned it.

Thanks again!

P.
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Old 08-09-2006, 04:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd start by looking at the fuel system. How old is the fuel filter? It could also be the injectors, or even the fuel pump.
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Old 08-09-2006, 06:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I have had this happen a few times in different cars, the problem was when the car was on idle, it wasn't getting enough gas. Most cars have a little knob under the hood that you can adjust that can add a few extra RPMs at idle, really just giving it a bit more gas. If you don't know how to do it, take it to someone who does, it should not be expensive at all to adjust the idle, and most of the better places will do it for free if you tell them what you need, since it really only takes about 5-10 mins. good luck!
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Old 08-09-2006, 06:53 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I had this problem. It turns out it was the ECU/PCM, hopefully its cheaper than that. Check your oxygen sensors, your TPS also might need to be replaced/adjusted. If you've checked the O2 sensors, TPS, and fuel system then its possible the problem is with the computer itself.
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Old 08-09-2006, 11:29 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Seeing how old the car is, and that it's a Nissan, it's probably like Crack said. It's not getting enough fuel, or it's idling lower than it should. If you have a repair manual for the vehicle, find out how to adjust the idle (usually a screw to turn on a car that old). Does your car have a tachometer, that would help out a lot. When the car is idling you'll want it to be reving between 800-1000 RPMS (varies per car model).

If that does not work, check the air filter first (easier than the fuel filter), if it's dirty and clogged this could cause the car not to get enough air for the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor to tell the car to give it enough gas to keep running. After you have checked that, check the fuel filter, and so on with the fuel system.
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Old 08-11-2006, 06:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hmmmm... no one has suggested a good, basic tune up yet. Fresh plugs,a distributor cap and rotor, and yes, an air filter and a fuel filter should be the starting point, considering your complaint. If you're still having trouble after that, check fuel pressure, idle, etc.
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Old 08-12-2006, 09:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I would start with the fuel system, if that doesn;t fix it try and turn up the idle, after that I really have no idea. And if your gonna chage the fuel filter grab a new air filter to there cheap enough.
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:23 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Location: Sanford, FL (between Daytona and Orlando)
My car sounds like it's been threatening to do that to me as well... I'm wondering if it could be the carb....
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Old 08-12-2006, 09:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliLivChick
My car sounds like it's been threatening to do that to me as well... I'm wondering if it could be the carb....
What do you drive?
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Old 08-13-2006, 07:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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thanks for the tips lads. So far I've checked the air filter which is fine, and turned up the idle. That seems to reduce the amount it happens, but by no means fixes it. I'm really not experienced enough to delve into the fuel system in any way though, so unless it's easy and I can be guided through it I guess I'll have to take it in.
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Old 08-13-2006, 08:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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the fuel filter is very easy. It'll most likely be on the firewall, shaped sorta like a black can of tuna with two hoses attached to the top.

Take the gas cap off, then unscrew the big bolt on the fuel filter. Have a shop rag over the bolt when you do this because fuel could spray.

Once the pressure's gone, unscrew both fuel lines, and then unbolt the filter from its mount. Reinstallation is the reverse of disassembly.

Do this in a well ventillated area or you'll get high from the gas fumes
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Old 08-13-2006, 11:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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alright thanks I'll give that a go :~)
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Old 08-15-2006, 09:14 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Location: Sanford, FL (between Daytona and Orlando)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pain Train
What do you drive?
96 Saturn SC2 - manual tranny, 130K miles (less than 50K on the engine and tranny)
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Old 08-15-2006, 02:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpyolddude
Fresh plugs,a distributor cap and rotor, and yes, an air filter and a fuel filter should be the starting point, considering your complaint. If you're still having trouble after that, check fuel pressure, idle, etc.
This is a very good point. I totally forgot about the plugs, distributor cap and rotor, that's a very good place to start.

CaliLivChick - Your car does not have a carburator, but check the air filter, and the things listed above.
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Old 08-15-2006, 10:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliLivChick
96 Saturn SC2 - manual tranny, 130K miles (less than 50K on the engine and tranny)
Ya a 96 Saturn will not have a carb, but some injector cleaner might make it run better.
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Old 08-15-2006, 10:26 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I had the same thing happen to my 86 jetta, turned out to be a vacuum leak. There was a huge tear in my intake boot. Might want to your vacuum lines for wear and tear, seems to be common with cars of this age.
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Old 08-15-2006, 11:55 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Yes, check the vaccum- my car had this same problem because a vaccum hose had come a bit loose and the car had lost vaccum. It idled very roughly- like a lawnmower- and I didn't bring in into the shop right away resulting in more damage to my spark plugs and air intake than would have happened if I had taken it in as soon as I had noticed it.

Seriously tho- take it to someone who knows how to fix it right. It's worth the money in the long run!
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Old 08-16-2006, 06:34 AM   #18 (permalink)
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a vacume leak will make it die like that if it has a vacume timing advance system or if that vacume advance isnt working correctly that will do it as well. or just a simply old worn out timing chain can do it. a good tuneup will fix it. not just the new plugs and belts that most places seem to pass off as a tuneup. need someone with a timing light to set the thing right.
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Old 08-17-2006, 04:36 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Bill the ASE certified automotive technician says: First, the 85 Nissan Pulsar comes with the 1.6 (1600 cc) inline 4 cyl (just so you know)
also, more information is needed. Does it stall AFTER you have stopped at intersection? or does it die AS you are stopping? What RPM does it idle at normally? does is start right back up after itdies? or do you have to work at it to get it restarted?

As far as idle adjustment, you do not have a carb per service information, you are fuel injected, so you have an automatically adjusting idle speed DON"T MESS WITH IT! You will confuse the computer. I would actually be looking to see if you have a diagnostic code stored to help. MANY of those Pulsars had trouble with crankshaft sensors. No crank signal? no engine run. so if you give us more info, I might be able to help.
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Old 08-19-2006, 05:20 PM   #20 (permalink)
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well, firstly it did have a small vacume leak, but I fixed that and it made no difference. I ended up taking it to an electrician eventually and he diagnosed the problem is with the carburetor. Will get it fixed this week and let you guys know what the haps is.

P.
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Old 08-21-2006, 06:07 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spotila
well, firstly it did have a small vacume leak, but I fixed that and it made no difference. I ended up taking it to an electrician eventually and he diagnosed the problem is with the carburetor. Will get it fixed this week and let you guys know what the haps is.

P.
OK, Now Forgive me if I am wrong, because I looked up my information VIA AllData Automotive service informations website, but your car doesnt HAVE a Carb, so how could he say it was a problem with your carb?...just askin. Throttle body maybe is what he meant? but I'm just asking. Don't want you to get talked into buying a Muffler Bearing, or a Shift Shaft Stabilizer...lol
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Old 08-21-2006, 07:50 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Why did you take your car to an electrician? Isn't that like hiring a house painter fix your washing machine? Did you mean you took it to a mechanic that specializes in electrical problems?
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Old 08-24-2006, 01:59 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I am curious as to the results of your repairs. Did you have them done? and if so, what was the result?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Spotila
well, firstly it did have a small vacume leak, but I fixed that and it made no difference. I ended up taking it to an electrician eventually and he diagnosed the problem is with the carburetor. Will get it fixed this week and let you guys know what the haps is.

P.
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Old 08-25-2006, 05:32 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Deltona: I can assure you it does have a carb D:. It's a 1500cc btw, not 1300 like I first thought.

cj: an auto-electrician, not a general electrician hehe.

Deltona again: After the electricians repairs, they blocked off one of the hoses that leads into the carb. Once they were done it was actually running worse. I asked for a refund but they didn't give me one. I then took it to a mechanic, who confirmed it was a carb problem. He tried to jam the little choke flap open, rendering the choke pretty much useless and hopefully keeping the car idling.

Alas it didn't work. Car still dies. Only step left really is to replace the carb. Can't really afford to do that on my student income so.
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Old 08-25-2006, 02:22 PM   #25 (permalink)
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sounds like you got ripped off by unskilled mechanics. Whoever it was that blocked off the hoses to the carb those hoses most likely have something to do with the pollution control if they disconnected them and wont give you a refund... tell them your going to call the better business buro disconnecting any pollution control is a huge fine for them i believe its 10grand here in IL. Thats the kinda shop that needs to be closed down. Those crappy places are all over the place.
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Old 08-27-2006, 06:06 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I agree with Plaid, talk to the shops OWNER and see if they are willing to give you a refund. If not, contact your city's BBB.
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Old 09-08-2006, 05:42 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I did ask for a refund, wouldn't give it to me. Just wasn't enough money spent to go making a huge issue out of it I don't think. In the end I bought a carbuerator from the wreakers and got a mate to help me install it. Car goes fine now.
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Old 09-12-2006, 12:55 AM   #28 (permalink)
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And ofcourse one last problem. The gasket that goes between the carb and the manifold was leaking (cause I just used the old one), so the car was drinking all its water in 5 minutes. Replaced the gasket, now no problems at all.
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