Captain Pike

Okay, washing machine is barely sputtering out hot water on the main cotton cycle. Or any cycle for that matter. The unit itself is quite old, "Simpsons-Sears" is on the model label, and I'm just wondering if I get the hot water going again, when will the next time it goes on me. I'm debating buying new or fixing this one up, I don't know how old the machine is, as it was a handmedown from a handmedown sitting in storage for a decade.

So far, I dumped CLR down the hot water and cold water hose to clear out any sediment or mineral buildup in the machine. And ran the cycle three times without soap to clear it out. And so far it's proving fruitless. Or hot waterless... any suggestions?

sashime76

Disconnect the hot water line from the faucet to the washing machine. Run hot water staight from the faucet, does it get hot? Do you get a resonable volume coming out of the water line? If you answer Yes to the above then it's the washing machine line that's clogged up. You can use a pair or pliers to undo the clip on the water line (connecting to the spout on the washing machine). Soak the water line in CLR solution for a good half hour or so. Use a long twisted wire brush to clean up the faucet water line, washing machine line and the spout on the washing machine.

Good luck!

Captain Pike

Yes on both, and there is no lacking for the cold water pressure. Thanks for the tip, will try it out.

kazoo

Many washing machines have cone-shaped inlet screens to protect the rest of the plumbing within the machine. Disconnect the feed hose and look into the inlet with a flashlight. You can use a pin or piece of fine wire to hook the screen and pull it out. Flush it free of debris, reinstall it and see if that solves the problem.

If that fails, then the inlet solenoid valve assembly may be bad. They're a pair of electromagnets that cause the hot and cold valves to open when power is applied to the respective coils. Typically, there's one outlet hose connected with a clamp and the valve itself is mounted to the back panel of the machine with a pair of hex-head screws. Three or four wires attach to the terminals on the coils-note their order or your hot/cold selection will be ass-backwards. Sears/Kenmore machines were made by Whirlpool for many years, and parts are readily available. WAG is that part will run you about $30.

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There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy

Captain Pike

Tried out the tip, clean. Soo... looks like I'll be sourcing out parts. most likely the inlet solenoid valve assembly. Took my ohmmeter to it, while it was running, and there is reading for the cold, but when on the hot, nothing... And I had my groundstrap on while I was doing it. 4 wires connect on it, but there are spots for possible of 8??? And I hope to expletive that my local Home Depot has them, otherwise I'll have to buy from appliance shop/specialty store... which may be more than 30 bucks. And I assume that's in american dollars.

So much for getting that bowfront aquarium I had my eye on. It's not the hundreds that's killing the budget, it's the tens...

kazoo

Not sure about your metering. With power off and machine leads disconnected from the solenoids, both solenoids should show continuity. Resistance is going be quite low. If that's good, reconnect the leads to both solenoids, set the main control to 'fill' and cycle to 'warm wash' which should energize both. Change your VOM to AC voltage and see if 120 VAC registers across both coils. If you're not getting 120 VAC across the hot solenoid, that would likely be a fault in the cycle selector (cold/cold, warm/cold, hot/cold) or the main cycle timer.

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There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy

TheFu

If it is really old just replace it. Newer models use less water and are more efficient. It may even pay for itself.

splck

Look in your local paper and pick up a used one...cheap.

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nice line eh?

kazoo

Depot isn't going to have that part, but before you buy anything, make sure you've determined for sure what's bad as most stores won't allow return of electrical parts.

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There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy

james t kirk

Exactly,

But whatever you do, don't buy a Kitchen Aid or any other CRAP made by Whirlpool.

I bought a brand new washer from Kitchen Aid (Crap) 3 years ago and ended up having the thing repaired about a month ago. (It would not agitate or spin)

Turns out the plastic coupling between the motor and transmission had sheared to bits. 15 dollar part and 129 to have it put in.

Still, I watched the dude do the work and now at least I know how to get the thing apart for the next time when it happens, and it will happen again I am sure. (You unscrew the control head, rotate the head bacwards, undo the 2 clip below the head and pull the entire front and sides off of the back in one piece - wow. Who knew)

Anyway, my parents had a Matag for 30 years which never ever broke down.

Go Maytag, Fuck Kitchen Aid / Whirlpool.

mazagmot

james, it may not be Whirlpool, it may just be that it's a new Whirlpool. The older machines used metal for transmission couplings, whereas the new ones use plastic, as you've found out. The plastic ones don't need to be lubricated and are cheaper, but don't last as long. I'm sure an older Whirlpool would have lasted nearly as long as your parents Maytag, or at least longer than your new one did.

(sorry for the off-topic post)

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d^_^b Got my headphones on.

james t kirk

True,

I liken it to the famous GM plastic intake manifold on my car that cracked and destroyed my engine. Manufacturers are ALWAYS looking to save a buck and if they can put in a cheap plastic part and save a buck they will.

My crap washer is 3 years old, and of course, the warrantee was only for 2 years. It doesn't get a lot of use since I am single. (My parent's Maytag never shut off it seemed, and never ever had to be fixed once in 30 years, in fact, it probably is still working.)

The service guy knew what the problem was without even looking at it.

All he said was "always use more water than you need to avoid overloading the agitator" So much for conservation.

A funny story.....

When I moved into my place, I didn't own a washer or a drier. My neighbours were in the process of replacing their old "Eaton" (if you are Canadian, you will know what that is.) washer and drier. They said to me that I could have both if I wanted, that they both worked, the drier was fine, the washer might last "another 6 months".

I ended up taking both (save a buck when yuo have no bucks) and they lasted almost exactly 5 years with no trouble. I remember I came downstairs one day and the washer had popped its clock and there was water all over the floor, so I figured, fuck it, I am just going to buy a new one.

I thought I was being smart and went out and bought the unreliable Kitchen Aid one.

Charlatan

Buy a new one... get the front load model... way easier on your clothes and uses way less water and energy.

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"My hands are on fire. Hands are on fire. Ain't got no more time for all you charlatans and liars."
- Old Man Luedecke

mazagmot

problem with buying brand new front load is they seem to cost about twice as much brand new

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d^_^b Got my headphones on.

Captain Pike

Yep, looked into those, I was very tempted a few hours, then I thought... " I live on the third floor, I really really don't want to haul a new washer up three flights of stairs..."

What a motivator... Did some calling around... and the first place I went to had the part, and replaced it, works BEAUTIFULLY! Cost 35 bucks for the after market part. If I went with the original from manufacturer, 45...

Of course coming here for advice... Priceless.

kazoo

Even if it said Whirlpool on the parts box, it's still an FSP part. They make components for many manufacturers. Glad it worked out for you.

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There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy