02-22-2005, 07:19 AM | #1 (permalink) |
Tilted
Location: Orlando, FL
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How to lay sod in my yard?
My front yard is a mess. More dirt and weeds than grass. It's a partly shaded lawn and I'll be sodding it with "st. Augustine" type grass. A few things:
A) I'm in Florida with relatively no separate seasons to speak of B) The part of my lawn I'm sodding is 20'x20' C) I've got moles/shrews? pretty bad Plus the other critters like ants, etc. D) I'm installing an automatic sprinkler system to water with (this part is easy, it's mechanical ) So my questions are 1. What's the best way to get rid of ALL the critters in my yard(bugs,moles,shrews)? 2. Do I need to kill all the weeds before I lay sod down? If so, what should I use to do this? 3. Any other special instructions before/after laying down sod? Anyone who does this for a living, or can walk me through it would be extremely helpful. I'm no green thumb AT ALL. |
02-22-2005, 07:27 AM | #2 (permalink) |
Getting it.
Super Moderator
Location: Lion City
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The best thing you can do is get rid of your grass and plant wildflowers and other types of ground cover... Lawns are just nasty for the environment.
But if you are determined to plant grass... 1) remove all of the grass and weeds that you have (dig it up and cart it away) 2) till the soil and fertilize 3) lay down the fresh sod 4) water liberally Get an outdoor cat to eat your moles and shrews...
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02-22-2005, 07:39 AM | #3 (permalink) |
Sauce Puppet
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as far as the animals go... not sure what the best thing to do there is. But you will have to remove any plants/weeds completely from the space you want to sod. Till, and fertilize the soil that you will be sodding (you want it loose so the roots of the grass can set in and hold. And yes, water liberally.
Like Charlatan said, I suggest wildflowers, and such, if done right they will be much more beautiful then a lawn, and much less damaging to the environment. |
02-22-2005, 07:44 AM | #4 (permalink) |
Tilted
Location: Orlando, FL
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I'm pretty sure my homeowners association won't allow a flower garden. I could be wrong though? I'll check my agreement. It's the size of a catalog though so who knows. Aren't even wild flowers seasonal? How ugly does it look when there aren't flowers blooming?
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02-22-2005, 07:47 AM | #5 (permalink) |
Insane
Location: Calgary
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Getting rid of critters?
Poison always works, but I'm guessinmg you live in the city.. traps, and as Charlatan suggested, a cat works well. Get rid off em before ou plant though (although if your neighbours have emm to, and they don;t get rid of emm, your screwed.) When sodding stagger the rows, the the vertical seams (i you will) do not line up with each other, it starts better that way. Make sure nothing walks on it for a while. water it well. Through on some fertilizer after you plant it (but not to much) Get some friends to help you, and buy emm some beer. I personally find sodding kinda enjoyable.. |
02-22-2005, 07:49 AM | #6 (permalink) | |
Insane
Location: Calgary
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Quote:
Even if they do allow flowers, they'll probably only allow some. My mum had to rip up all of her daisies because there a noxious weed. |
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02-22-2005, 07:52 AM | #7 (permalink) |
Junkie
Location: Toronto
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Are you in a homeowner's association or a condo with specific rules? I would think that municipal bylaws would supercede homeowner's associations, but not condo rules.
We have a berm built up, which we made out of 6x6 lengths of wood. we dumped fresh soil ontop of the old, and then layed sod. (i shouldn't say we, except that i served cold drinks). Watering is critical, and dont let people (kids) run all over it. outdoor cats (prefereably your own) seems to do the trick for the animal control - as Charl says. Your own cat also seems to scare neighbour cats away, so they don't poop on your grass... |
02-22-2005, 08:02 AM | #8 (permalink) |
Tilted
Location: Orlando, FL
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A cat isn't going to happen. I'm allergic and an outside cat would most likely get picked up as a stray, or run over in the street. Even if none of the above, it would still be pretty high maintenance for a guy like me. I'm not home much, etc.
I live in a subdivision. Our homeowners association is pretty strict though. I just got another letter telling me to pressure wash my driveway. It's not even that bad but they want 'gleaming' white. Edit: I was more hoping to receive some input on other "pest control" alternatives. Maybe the electronic mole chasers? Or specific brand name poisons that kill bugs, moles, etc. Proven methods. Other than getting a pet cat Last edited by turbodriven; 02-22-2005 at 08:10 AM.. |
02-22-2005, 08:29 AM | #9 (permalink) |
Junkie
Location: Toronto
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One of the big problems with lawns (in my neighbourhood) are grubs which eat the roots of the grass and kill it. they are also tastey for critters such as racoons and skunks, who who will tear up your grass overnight trying to dig up the grubs. I've had large patches of my grass torn up due to this.
You can use a chemical to kill them (diazanon) but I shudder at the thought of putting that on my grass. Here the cycle of the grub is early spring, then august (i mean that is the time to treat the grass) after the grubs mature they turn into june Bugs or japanese stag beetles. another option to kill grubs is a worm that you can by at any garden centre (nemotodes) which you hydrate (they are in a sponge) in a bucket then spray over your lawn. these worms like to eat the grubs. But their effectiveness is somewhat less than the chemical solution. |
02-22-2005, 04:32 PM | #10 (permalink) | |
Insane
Location: bangor pa
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Quote:
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02-25-2005, 07:48 PM | #11 (permalink) |
Custom User Title
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No help on how to kill critters other than go to a good nusery in your area and ask them. Or ask whomever you're getting your sod from.
As far as laying sod, I can help a little there. Work the soil until its well tilled. No clumps, rocks or debris. Landscapers have huge leveling rakes, like 6 feet wide made out of aluminum. See if you can rent one. You need to have your soil as level as possible. Fertilize it before you lay your sod. You may even lightly spinkle the soil before you lay your sod, but not too much. When you do lay your sod, make sure the edges are tight against each other. The tighter the better, it will shrink a little. And then water it. All day, all night. If you have watering restrictions, wait until a time of year when you get plenty of rainfall. Then water it some more. The roots can not dry out or you will have dead patches. Good luck. |
02-26-2005, 10:26 PM | #12 (permalink) |
Addict
Location: Wherever I am!
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A few things I have heard but have not tried. Before planting, check with a nursery about a barrier you can pound into the ground. Goes about 8-10" down. This keeps most gophers, moles, etc. from traveling as they only live 6" below ground. This won't stop them from getting out of the ground and traveling though. The other thing I have always wanted to try is galvanized metal cloth. It look like a big metal screen. Lay this down before you lay the sod. Make sure you get it with opening small enough to keep the critters from squeezing through. This will keep them from coming up or down through the yard. Should be able to get it from home Depot, Lowes, McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) look for wire cloth.
Hope that helps.
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02-27-2005, 07:28 AM | #13 (permalink) |
Addict
Location: Sarasota
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First off, I can't believe all the yard advice you are getting from people who live in northern climes for a yard in Orlando. You people have no idea. We mow our yards twelve months a year. The grasses and plants are totally different.
I know you want to save money and all, but replacing your yard is about the nastiest work that there is. BTDT. I would talk to several landscaping companies to get an idea as to how much they would charge and then figure out how much it is going to cost you to do it. Like most contractors they get their materials and labor cheaper than you and I think you will be surprised at how little difference in cost there will be. If you are determined however here is what to do..... Use Round-Up on the entire area that you want to replace. Wait a week and do it again. It will usually take 2-3 weeks for the grass/weeds to die completely. You will then need to remove all the existing grass/weeds (Hot, nasty, back breaking work) and discard it. DO NOT, DO NOT till the soil. This will just stir up old weed seeds from below. The dirt yard will now need to be treated with a 'pre-emergant herbicide'. This will prevent weed seeds from sprouting up later through your grass. It is very important that the removal, herbicide spraying, and installation occur right after one another so that the weeds do not have a chance to start to grow. If it takes a week to get the grass down the weeds will just be cemented under your new turf and you will never get rid of them. There are so many growing things in the soil here in FL that it is important that the soil be as "sanitary" as possible when you put down the new grass. This will also eliminate the bugs and insects that the moles are going after in your yard. Once the bugs/insects are gone, the moles will just stop coming in your yard. You can usually buy St.Augustine by the pallet from landscaping companies. Absolutley do not buy plugs and attempt to do your front yard. It takes months for the plugs to grow together and in the meantime the weeds fill up the empty spaces. BTDT, too. Backyard or smaller spaces OK, but not your front yard. Water the soil good and then install the new grass (Did I mention hot, nasty, back breaking work) Only one rule here: Green side Up . You have the right idea about installing a sprinkler system. Most landscape companies will not even install St.Augustine unless you have a sprinkler system. With one though they will warranty, yes warranty, the installation and that your yard will survive and look good or they will replace it. St. Augustine is the best looking grass and may be required by your HOA. It requires a lot of work and needs to be treated as a growing plant not just like a pasture. You will need to have a regular maintenance program. Fertilizing, herbicide, watering, correct cutting (use the highest mower setting possible). The quickest way to stress St. Augustine grass and make it susceptible to cinch bugs and heat is to cut it too short. Hint: Ask the guy with the nicest grass in the neighborhood what he does to keep it up. He will be glad to tell you. Good Luck and if you have any other questions, just ask.
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02-27-2005, 06:02 PM | #14 (permalink) |
Upright
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a couple more things here. someone mentioned using Roundup. Ditto on that. Don't get the roundup available at Walmart or any chain retail place, these are junk and way overpriced. Go to a garden supply center or tractor supply company, and get the generic stuff, 41% glyphosate (i suck at spelling, but you get the point). The best off brand out there is called Honcho which is actually made by the same company, monsanto, that makes roundup. The patent on roundup ran out a few years ago, the cheap stuff is just as good, dont' let anyone tell you any different. Avoid any mixtures that say "fast kill" or anything of that nature. These contain Diquat, which will kill the follage, quickly, but will often times allow the roots survive. Roundup attacks an amino acid that allows the plants to translocate nutrients, it takes a little time to work, so be patient. When you lay the sod, make sure that loosen the soil and rake it smooth. Lay out the sod, talk to a local garden center about what will work best with your soil type can climate. St. Augistine sounds like a great choice for that area. When laying the sod, get the edges tight, and go over them with a sod roller, looks like an aerator without the spikes, this is important to get rid of the lines between pieces. As far as fertilizer goes, any grass in your area will be a "warm season grass". These have unique nutrient requirements. Be sure that the nitrogen used in the fertilizer is of the slow release variety. fertilizer is listed by three numbers, N-P-K, aka nitrogen-phosphorus-potasium. with warm season grasses, it is important to use a fertilizer at the onset of fall that is LOW in nitrogen and phoshorus, and high in potasium to allow for a proper transition to the slower growing time of year. Don't be afraid of chemicals, the environment hype isn't all that it's made out to be. A lot of people will try to get you to belive that organic chemicals and fertilizers are better and safer, nothing could be farther from the truth. On the safety issue, organic does not equal non toxic. On fertilizers the require nutrients can be derived much less expensivly through synthetic processes, and just as safely, if not more so.
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03-16-2005, 10:01 PM | #15 (permalink) |
The sky calls to us ...
Super Moderator
Location: CT
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Get yourself a Rodenator (www.rodenator.com) to get rid of underground pests. It's ridiculously entertaining. At least look at the videos they have on the site.
Seriously, find the holes, and pick up some anti-rodent smoke bombs from a local hardware store. Light it, stick it in the hole, and pack with dirt. Anywhere you see smoke rising, fill in, and repeat the process a few times several hours apart to make sure they're all dead. |
03-23-2005, 10:13 PM | #16 (permalink) |
The Dreaded Pixel Nazi
Location: Inside my camera
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I want one of those so bad.
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Hesitate. Pull me in.
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03-29-2005, 10:50 PM | #17 (permalink) |
Crazy
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Get a lawn service to come and advise you what you can do first then either hire them or do it yourself. Ace Hardware garden centers will give you really good advice on this too. You're going to want to treat/kill the weeds first though. We did it with roundup one winter and then sodded in the spring. I assume you'll be going with St Augustine grass. My advice is once the yard is established cut back the watering to two days a week. It will stimulate the roots and they will go deeper.
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lay, sod, yard |
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