07-17-2003, 04:31 PM | #1 (permalink) |
Upright
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Changing Oil in Truck
Ok, I'm not a mechanic nor do I play one on t.v., but I've always heard that changing the oil in a car is one of the easiest things to do. I have a '96 Toyota Tacoma so the pan is easy to get to. So I guess the question is, is draining the oil and replacing it all that need be done?
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07-17-2003, 04:41 PM | #2 (permalink) |
Psycho
Location: norcal
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yes. but you should also change the filter. refer to your operators manual for exact locations of filter, plug, etc. also make sure you have a wide container to catch the oil.
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07-18-2003, 06:44 PM | #3 (permalink) |
**PORNHOUND**
Location: California
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When you replace the filter remember to dip your finger in fresh oil and wipe a little oil around the rubber gasket on the filter...... it seals better, and only tighten the filter by hand.... don't crank it tight with the filter wrench.
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07-18-2003, 07:17 PM | #4 (permalink) |
Junkie
Location: The True North Strong and Free!
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what they said.
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07-21-2003, 08:51 AM | #5 (permalink) |
Addict
Location: outer reaches of space
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ideally you should do this when the oil is hot. Ie drive the truck around for awhile run some errands etc .
but be careful hot oil is, well HOT! hot oil drains more completely thus removing more of the used dirty stuff and reducing contamination of the new clean stuff. you might think to clean \ change your air filter at the same time. check the other fluids ie brake fluid , tranny fluid , coolant, washer fluid etc.
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07-24-2003, 03:43 AM | #7 (permalink) |
Tilted
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Do yourself a favour, get a nice oilpan for draining the used oil out. I got one from a local car store for like 10 bucks, makes life so much easier. Check all other fluids as well when doing the oil change plus I change my air filter on every other oil change. Check to see if you have grease fittings as well on ball joints and universal joints and sterring components and give it a grease job at every oil change.
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07-25-2003, 03:47 AM | #9 (permalink) |
**PORNHOUND**
Location: California
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Another trick is to get a large magnet from a big speaker....... and stick it to the bottom of the oilpan, all the small metal fragments (from wearing parts) will stick to the area where the magnet is attached..... A little overkill but a good trick, ideally this is done when you rebuild a motor..... just drop the magnet IN the bottom of the oilpan, Actually you can buy a magnetized oilpan plug that will do the same thing......
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07-25-2003, 06:34 AM | #11 (permalink) |
Crazy
Location: Hawaii
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don't forget to check your owners manual for how many quarts to put in..
also remember to put the cap back on... my brother forgot one time and his engine got a nice oil bath.. also don't wear anything nice, including shoes... i ruined my fav pair of sneakers....
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07-26-2003, 09:00 PM | #13 (permalink) |
Insane
Location: Vancouver Island BC
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Don't drain your transmission by mistake. Ok ok, I was young and stupid. My dad drained the oil, replaced the plug, the phone rang and forgot to put the new oil in. I guess he was old and stupid.
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07-28-2003, 05:37 PM | #14 (permalink) | |
Crazy
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08-01-2003, 11:36 AM | #18 (permalink) |
Psycho
Location: somewhere....
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Like Ashton said up top, be sure to put a thin layer on the gasket (the roung black rubber washer on the filter where it mounts to the motor) of the new filter. ALSO BE EXTRA SURE TO SEE THAT THE GASKET OF THE OLD FILTER COMES OFF WITH THE FILTER.... IF IT WAS NOT OILED LIKE RECOMMENDED BY ASHTON, IT MAY STICK TO THE MOTOR AND NOW YOUR NEW ONE WILL CAUSE A DOUBLE-GASKET WHICH ALMOST GUARANTEES BAD LEAKING AND POTENTIAL ASSOCIATED TROUBLE!!!!
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08-01-2003, 05:03 PM | #19 (permalink) | |
Upright
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08-01-2003, 11:52 PM | #20 (permalink) | |
Psycho
Location: cali
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most cities offer pick up for used oil. they supposedly have a grant from the feds that pay them x amount for oil recycled. my city gave me a nice wide oil pan, when i get it full, i call the city and they have it picked up on the regular trash pick up day. talk to your city, they have lots to offer you. if you forget to check other fluids, at least check your radiator fluid when the engine is cold. i made the mistake of overlooking it and overheated my car, warping the aluminum block, causing me to have to drive in the summer heat with the heater on cuz i was too broke to fix it. but alas, we pulled it apart, sent it to a machine shop and had it resurfaced. works great now and i know to check it always.
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08-11-2003, 03:22 PM | #21 (permalink) |
Insane
Location: All up in it...
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I used to be a fanatic about changing my own oil and would never dream of taking it somehwere to have it done. I have to say I must be getting old because to me it is just not worth the hassle of a do-it-yourself job when the Express Lube Center down the street will do it in 10 minutes for $19.95. Even if I do it myself I will spend close to $10 on oil and filter. So I have compromised and I now have my oil changed but I stand by and make sure they do everything to the standards I would have if I were doing it at home.
The lube places and the oil advertisemnts will tell you to change your oil every 3,000 miles.... unless you are having engine poblems like worn rings that cause your car to use a lot of oil it really only needs to be changed every 5 to 6 thousand miles. The first few oil changes on a new car are the most important becasue that is when you any matal shavings will float around in the crankcase from the interanl parts "breaking in". Some folks will say that you don't have to change filters on every oil change but I do it anyway. What's the point of putting fresh oil in the engine if you are going to contaminate it with the stuff in the filter? |
08-14-2003, 08:22 PM | #22 (permalink) | |
Upright
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Just installed one recently -- much much easier and less messy.
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08-22-2003, 09:40 PM | #24 (permalink) |
Tilted
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Just pay Jiffy Lube $29 and be done with it. By the time you buy the oil and filter, drain your old stuff, cleanup the mess and drop the old oil back at the parts store, how much time have you spent? Unless you enjoy working on cars, its the best $29 you'll spend.
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08-23-2003, 02:04 AM | #25 (permalink) |
Tilted
Location: Midwest
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5 minutes:....throw your drain pan under and drop unscrew the plug, while that is draining out change out the oil filter, make sure the pan covers both or you'll make a mess, once the old oil is down to a trickle replace the plug and fill to your car specs (it will be in the back "service" part of the owners manual.
P.S. throw a towel down under if it's your first attempt |
08-24-2003, 01:00 PM | #26 (permalink) | |
Insane
Location: [insert witty play on location field here]
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First, the Oil Filter. Pretty much every oil filter is only good for about 3000 miles, and if you dont believe in this...well....its your engine, I guess. Seems like cheap insurance to me. Second, the Oil itself. You owners manual will probably say something like "Change oil every 6000-7500 miles UNDER NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS." And then it will say "Change oil every 3000 miles UNDER SEVERE DRIVING CONDITIONS." Severe driving conditions include: any stop-and-go driving, driving in the heat, driving in the cold, driving in the dust, frequent engine start/stops, towing/hauling. So in other words, you are only under normal driving conditions when your taking a LONG trip with nothing in the car/truck, on a 70 degree day....and you dont stop for gas LOL Changing your oil every 3000 miles is cheap insurance for a longer lasting vehicle....anyone who tells you different is either an old man who is stuck in his ways, or just plain cheap. Happy driving |
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08-29-2003, 10:23 PM | #28 (permalink) | |
Psycho
Location: cali
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ey bad30th,
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someone, who worked at one of those places, also told me that sometimes, they throw in some old oil. but his credibility was always questionable. so if you could clarify any of this, it'd be great. thanks
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08-30-2003, 04:09 PM | #29 (permalink) |
Insane
Location: [insert witty play on location field here]
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Well I can tell you that (though I hate to support a company that treats their employees as shitty as they do....) Jiffy Lube DOES NOT ever use old, recycled, re-used, etc. oils. All oils used are new and the same as if you were to buy them in an AutoZone.
We did use what we called 'bulk oil' which is the exact same thing as whats in the bottles. It is technically cheaper, but thats just the cost to the owners because it is bought in bulk, not cheaper quality. I will tell you that I have heard horror stories about Econo-Lube using recycled oil and only changing oil filters once a year or something. No thank you. LOL if anyone else wants to know anything about their favorite national fast-lube, let me know...I dont work there anymore so I guess I have no reason to lie good luck Last edited by bad30th; 08-30-2003 at 04:11 PM.. |
08-30-2003, 11:12 PM | #30 (permalink) |
Buffering.........
Location: Wisconsin...
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I do it myself....not hard to do, plus saves me money....plus my dad uses the oil for boiler fuel. Not worth the hassle of taking it in to get it done.
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08-31-2003, 05:53 PM | #31 (permalink) |
Crazy
Location: louisianna
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only other thing i can add, to what ahston said pour a quart of oil in the filter never let the oil pump start up dry! and drive on ! oh and the drain pan problem,a metal 55 gallon drum botton will hold all the oil and filter in one shot.
Last edited by mazak; 08-31-2003 at 05:56 PM.. |
09-03-2003, 10:50 AM | #33 (permalink) | |
Psycho
Location: cali
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Quote:
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no man or woman is worth your tears - and the one who is, won't make you cry question authority, don't ask why, just do it! |
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09-04-2003, 09:14 PM | #34 (permalink) | |
Upright
Location: vancouver, bc
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Also, the whole magnet-in-the-oil pan thing - wouldn't that just magnetize all the shavings in the oil and make it basically IMPOSSIBLE to get them out once they work their way up into the engine's cylinders? |
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09-05-2003, 12:52 PM | #35 (permalink) | |
Fledgling Dead Head
Location: Clarkson U.
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changing, oil, truck |
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