Changing the oil on my 2000 Maxima (first time for me) - Tilted Forum Project Discussion Community

Moskie · 09-06-2004, 10:50 AM

so I finally decided that I should change my own oil. never done it before, but i thought I should know how. This is on a 2000 Maxima GXE.

but i'm having trouble with the very first step of the process: i can't get the drain plug out! i feel like i'm getting proper grip with my wrench, I can turn it, and it feels like the plug is moving with me, but as far as I can tell, the thing ain't budging. Maybe i've stripped it, but I feel resistance when i turn it, as if i'm actually doing something other than stripping it. if worse comes to worse, i'll use a vice grip on it....

but how difficult should this be? I shouldn't need a power tool to get the drain plug out, should i? about how many rotations does the thing need to go before it comes out?

BooRadley · 09-06-2004, 01:14 PM

First question : Are you using the right wrench? If you are using an SAE ( or wrench with fractional inches on it, such as 3/8" 7/16") then you definitely are using the wrong wrench. Maxima will be all metric. If you are using a crescent/adjustable wrench... you might want to rethink things as they have a tendancy of being useless for most fasteners with any torque on them at all.

Second: If the wrench is metric, and you are sure you've selected the right size, take a flashlight and evaluate the head of the bolt. If it looks rounded off, STOP and take it to a mechanic. There are multiple ways of getting out a rounded bolt, but it is FAR easier for an amateur mechanic to just take it into a shop. Why do I say this? My friend rounded off a bolt on his oil pan. We spent 6+ hours trying every method we knew of to get it off, and finally a mechanic had to take a bolt extractor drill bit ( $10-30 ) to get it off after 30 minutes of filing.

Third question: If the bolt head is fine, and your wrench fits snugly, then continue to turn. My guess is at least 5-10 full turns to get it out, but could be more.

solo2020 · 09-07-2004, 11:27 AM

Here's what several guys do when they can't get the oil drain plug out.

- Take out the Filter
- Let it drain for about 1 minute
- Start up the car for approx 2-3 minute
- The oil pressure should blast all the oil out of where the filter use to be
- Replace oil filter with new one
- Fill up

JStrider · 09-07-2004, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solo2020

Here's what several guys do when they can't get the oil drain plug out.

- Take out the Filter
- Let it drain for about 1 minute
- Start up the car for approx 2-3 minute
- The oil pressure should blast all the oil out of where the filter use to be
- Replace oil filter with new one
- Fill up

im no mechanic... but that sounds like a recipe for disaster... thats just asking for engine damage... you run it just a tiny bit too long...
not only that... it sounds like it would make a huge oily mess all over your engine compartment and driveway...

mechanicman · 09-07-2004, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solo2020

Here's what several guys do when they can't get the oil drain plug out.

- Take out the Filter
- Let it drain for about 1 minute
- Start up the car for approx 2-3 minute
- The oil pressure should blast all the oil out of where the filter use to be
- Replace oil filter with new one
- Fill up

Those cars don't hold a lot of oil (4-4.5 quarts) so it's not going to take that long for all the oil to shoot out, and obviously there is a problem with the drain plug that needs to be looked at. You can probably take it to a quick lube and have them look at it for you. I used to work at one and we would always help people out if they came in and were being nice about us giving them a little bit of help

solo2020 · 09-08-2004, 12:40 AM

^ Come on you guys, that was a joke. Some idiot in a SRT-4 did this to his car and everybody on the forum called him an idiot (which he was).

Doing what I initially recommended (which was a joke) will not only damage your engine, you might also blow out a piston or a headgasket while your at it.

Make sure your using the proper size, if its on real tight, squirt a couple shots of WD-40 in and around the bolt. Let it sit for about 2 mins, tap the head the bolt, and take it out.

merkerguitars · 09-08-2004, 07:09 AM

and remember....lefty loosey righty tighty

reconmike · 09-08-2004, 02:43 PM

On a Max the head of the drain plug should be 14 MM, make sure you are turning the plug counter clockwise, once broken loose the plug should rotate easily by hand, if it doesnt it is possible that the inner threads on the oil pan itself are cross threaded, if you remove the plug you might not be able to re-install it, I would go to the local auto parts store and buy a new one JIC (just in case), make sure you get a new washer also. Good luck

THGL · 09-09-2004, 04:41 AM

You've gotten good advice already, so I'll just say "Good For You!"

Don't let this little set-back deter you from changing your oil in the future. It's amazing how much money you can save from doing it yourself. About 5 months ago, my wife's Blazer needed the oil changed and I didn't have the time. I told my wife just to run by an instant oil change place and not to get any extras (wipers, air filter, etc.) the bill was still over $30! 30 freakin' dollars! I can get an entire CASE of oil for $20. Plus, the doofus working in the pit that day must've been pissed off at someone... I had to use my channel-locks and a lot of cussing to get that oil filter off. But I digress...

You've made the first step into the auto-repair world. Now go buy yourself a Chilton's (or similar) repair manual for your Maxima and see what else you can do.

2sheds · 09-12-2004, 03:39 PM

they also make pumps that can suck the oil out thru the dipstick hole. they are pretty cool, and really help reduce the mess.

e.g.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2050&SKU=10186

note: griots is pretty pricey. you could probably find a similar pump cheaper elsewhere.

Ramega · 09-12-2004, 04:59 PM

Wow, I've never seen that approach before. I always just drag out the ramps, chocks, and newspaper to change the oil in mine. Has anyone else tried the pump method? Obviously you still have to change the filter, which can be messy on its own.

merkerguitars · 09-12-2004, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2sheds

they also make pumps that can suck the oil out thru the dipstick hole. they are pretty cool, and really help reduce the mess.

e.g.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2050&SKU=10186

note: griots is pretty pricey. you could probably find a similar pump cheaper elsewhere.

Most quick lube places in my area use these cause of having young kids forgetting to put to drain plug or not tightening it up enough

LLL2 · 09-13-2004, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2sheds

they also make pumps that can suck the oil out thru the dipstick hole. they are pretty cool, and really help reduce the mess.

e.g.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2050&SKU=10186

note: griots is pretty pricey. you could probably find a similar pump cheaper elsewhere.

That's pretty cool.I might have to buy one.

2sheds · 09-13-2004, 12:42 PM

iirc, there are some types of cars that the pump will not work on, but i think it's a relatively short list (griot's site lists a few - american v8's plus some others - but it may not be a complete list)

interstingly, the guy that recommended the pump to me works at norwood autocraft in the dfw area - they specialize in servicing and customizing ferrari's and other exotics.

another trick is to put a disposable diaper under the oil filter before you unscrew it so that the diaper catches what drips out.

saltfish · 09-14-2004, 12:19 PM

There are a few rules that one must remember when chaning one's own oil.

Use the correct wrench (covered previously)
Use a catch pan for the used oil, oil must be disposed of properly
Get the car up to running temp before the oil change, this ensures that the oil is hot enough and any settled dirt is in suspension. This ensures that you are removing the most amount of grime from the engine. Also, cold oil is more viscus, and more dirty oil will remain if the engine is cold.
Always remember to replace the oil plug gasket if so equipped. This will ensure that you do not overtighten the plug and it will help to safeguard against plug-leak.
Use a good oil filter and oil that meet/beats the manufacturer specs for your engine type.

-SF
3 Years of fast-lube experience from highschool.

09-06-2004, 10:50 AM	#1 (permalink)
Moskie Pure Chewing Satisfaction Location: can i use bbcode [i]here[/i]?	Changing the oil on my 2000 Maxima (first time for me) so I finally decided that I should change my own oil. never done it before, but i thought I should know how. This is on a 2000 Maxima GXE. but i'm having trouble with the very first step of the process: i can't get the drain plug out! i feel like i'm getting proper grip with my wrench, I can turn it, and it feels like the plug is moving with me, but as far as I can tell, the thing ain't budging. Maybe i've stripped it, but I feel resistance when i turn it, as if i'm actually doing something other than stripping it. if worse comes to worse, i'll use a vice grip on it.... but how difficult should this be? I shouldn't need a power tool to get the drain plug out, should i? about how many rotations does the thing need to go before it comes out? __________________ Greetings and salutations.

09-08-2004, 07:09 AM	#7 (permalink)
merkerguitars Buffering......... Location: Wisconsin...	and remember....lefty loosey righty tighty __________________ Donate now! Ask me How! Please use the search function it is your friend. Look at my mustang please feel free to comment! http://www.tfproject.org/tfp/showthread.php?t=26985

09-08-2004, 02:43 PM	#8 (permalink)
reconmike Thank You Jesus Location: Twilight Zone	On a Max the head of the drain plug should be 14 MM, make sure you are turning the plug counter clockwise, once broken loose the plug should rotate easily by hand, if it doesnt it is possible that the inner threads on the oil pan itself are cross threaded, if you remove the plug you might not be able to re-install it, I would go to the local auto parts store and buy a new one JIC (just in case), make sure you get a new washer also. Good luck __________________ Where is Darwin when ya need him?

09-12-2004, 03:39 PM	#10 (permalink)
2sheds Crazy Location: dfw - texas	they also make pumps that can suck the oil out thru the dipstick hole. they are pretty cool, and really help reduce the mess. e.g. http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2050&SKU=10186 note: griots is pretty pricey. you could probably find a similar pump cheaper elsewhere. __________________ Depression is just anger without enthusiasm. It’s having an empty beer bottle but no one to throw it at.

09-13-2004, 12:42 PM	#14 (permalink)
2sheds Crazy Location: dfw - texas	iirc, there are some types of cars that the pump will not work on, but i think it's a relatively short list (griot's site lists a few - american v8's plus some others - but it may not be a complete list) interstingly, the guy that recommended the pump to me works at norwood autocraft in the dfw area - they specialize in servicing and customizing ferrari's and other exotics. another trick is to put a disposable diaper under the oil filter before you unscrew it so that the diaper catches what drips out. __________________ Depression is just anger without enthusiasm. It’s having an empty beer bottle but no one to throw it at.

09-06-2004, 01:14 PM	#2 (permalink)
BooRadley Insane Location: Kentucky	First question : Are you using the right wrench? If you are using an SAE ( or wrench with fractional inches on it, such as 3/8" 7/16") then you definitely are using the wrong wrench. Maxima will be all metric. If you are using a crescent/adjustable wrench... you might want to rethink things as they have a tendancy of being useless for most fasteners with any torque on them at all. Second: If the wrench is metric, and you are sure you've selected the right size, take a flashlight and evaluate the head of the bolt. If it looks rounded off, STOP and take it to a mechanic. There are multiple ways of getting out a rounded bolt, but it is FAR easier for an amateur mechanic to just take it into a shop. Why do I say this? My friend rounded off a bolt on his oil pan. We spent 6+ hours trying every method we knew of to get it off, and finally a mechanic had to take a bolt extractor drill bit ( $10-30 ) to get it off after 30 minutes of filing. Third question: If the bolt head is fine, and your wrench fits snugly, then continue to turn. My guess is at least 5-10 full turns to get it out, but could be more.

09-07-2004, 11:27 AM	#3 (permalink)
solo2020 Tilted Location: Los Angeles	Here's what several guys do when they can't get the oil drain plug out. - Take out the Filter - Let it drain for about 1 minute - Start up the car for approx 2-3 minute - The oil pressure should blast all the oil out of where the filter use to be - Replace oil filter with new one - Fill up

09-08-2004, 12:40 AM	#6 (permalink)
solo2020 Tilted Location: Los Angeles	^ Come on you guys, that was a joke. Some idiot in a SRT-4 did this to his car and everybody on the forum called him an idiot (which he was). Doing what I initially recommended (which was a joke) will not only damage your engine, you might also blow out a piston or a headgasket while your at it. Make sure your using the proper size, if its on real tight, squirt a couple shots of WD-40 in and around the bolt. Let it sit for about 2 mins, tap the head the bolt, and take it out.

09-09-2004, 04:41 AM	#9 (permalink)
THGL Psycho Location: Louisville, KY	You've gotten good advice already, so I'll just say "Good For You!" Don't let this little set-back deter you from changing your oil in the future. It's amazing how much money you can save from doing it yourself. About 5 months ago, my wife's Blazer needed the oil changed and I didn't have the time. I told my wife just to run by an instant oil change place and not to get any extras (wipers, air filter, etc.) the bill was still over $30! 30 freakin' dollars! I can get an entire CASE of oil for $20. Plus, the doofus working in the pit that day must've been pissed off at someone... I had to use my channel-locks and a lot of cussing to get that oil filter off. But I digress... You've made the first step into the auto-repair world. Now go buy yourself a Chilton's (or similar) repair manual for your Maxima and see what else you can do.

09-12-2004, 04:59 PM	#11 (permalink)
Ramega Crazy	Wow, I've never seen that approach before. I always just drag out the ramps, chocks, and newspaper to change the oil in mine. Has anyone else tried the pump method? Obviously you still have to change the filter, which can be messy on its own.

09-14-2004, 12:19 PM	#15 (permalink)
saltfish !?!No hay pantalones!?! Location: Indian-no-place	There are a few rules that one must remember when chaning one's own oil. Use the correct wrench (covered previously) Use a catch pan for the used oil, oil must be disposed of properly Get the car up to running temp before the oil change, this ensures that the oil is hot enough and any settled dirt is in suspension. This ensures that you are removing the most amount of grime from the engine. Also, cold oil is more viscus, and more dirty oil will remain if the engine is cold. Always remember to replace the oil plug gasket if so equipped. This will ensure that you do not overtighten the plug and it will help to safeguard against plug-leak. Use a good oil filter and oil that meet/beats the manufacturer specs for your engine type. -SF 3 Years of fast-lube experience from highschool.