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Old 10-25-2003, 12:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
I am Winter Born
 
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Location: Alexandria, VA
Strange "Overheating" Problem - Need Help

Ok, here's my car description:
1992 Acura Integra 4-door, factory except for a new intake and head unit.

It's been running fine, had regular maintenence done to it, etc., up until about a month or two ago when I moved back on campus -- I haven't had a chance to change the oil in about 5k miles and the coolant was very low (almost empty) until I bought some more and filled it up. I've also been filling up the oil with a few quarts -- it's just shy of full.

Last night, it was cold out (around 35* F) and I was driving to my girlfriends (about 10 minutes away) and by the time the car got there (casual street driving, no redlining the engine, nothing like that), the engine temperature gauge was at max. I went today to drop something off at a friend's dorm, and again after about 10 minutes, the engine was at max temperature.

When I turned the car off, however, the temperature immediately shot down to cold. There are no idiot lights on the dash on, and I'm completely clueless. I really don't want to drive it far like this, and I'm planning on taking it to a mechanics as soon as possible (probably Tuesday).

In the mean time, though, does anyone have ideas?
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Old 10-25-2003, 12:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
Psycho
 
Location: In the garage, under the car.
I've never owned an Acura or Honda product, so this may not apply.

Several things to check:

1. Thermostat. It could be bad. The thermostat is a valve that controls whether the coolant is circulated through the engine. When the car is cold, the valve is shut, allowing the engine to heat up quickly to optimum operating temperature. If the thermostat is failing, the valve won't open (or won't open enough).
2. You added a lot of coolant lately, so you may have air in the system. You need to "burp" it by squeezing the hoses with the filler cap off. The air bubbles should travel up to the tank, and you'll end up adding more coolant when you're done.
3. If your cooling fan is belt driven, the clutch for the fan may be failing (causing the fan to turn at less than full speed). Try turning the fan by hand (with the engine off, obviously). If it moves easily, the clutch may need replacing.

Someone who actually has experience with Hondas probably has better info. My experience is with German cars.
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Old 10-25-2003, 01:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Location: NJ
Fastshark gives you lots of good advice I would have echoed at least two of them. One other option, if the fan is belt driven, is a loose or slipping belt.
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Old 10-25-2003, 01:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Location: Alexandria, VA
I went and tried turning the cooling fan, that wasn't turning easily, so I assume that's good.

I tried to "burp" the coolant system, and it didn't seem to have any effect at all -- I didn't see the coolant level go down in a noticable manner.

I'm not sure how to check the thermostat, or if it is even something I can check myself - I'll look in my Haynes manual for the car.
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Old 10-25-2003, 03:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Location: California
If the gauge said it was that hot and it dropped to cold the temp sensor is probally messed up, if it really was that hot it would have gotten hotter when you turned the engine off..... and boiled over.
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Old 10-25-2003, 05:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Location: Alexandria, VA
Yea, I figured out that the radiator itself was pretty much out of coolant, so I filled that up, then sat there revving the engine for about 10 minutes. It seemed to hold at a normal temperature.

My guess is that the thermostat is shut closed, so I'll have to see about getting that replaced.
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Old 10-26-2003, 01:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Location: louisianna
just a thought,but if the thermostat is stuck closed the heater will not work.do you have heat?good luck.
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Old 10-26-2003, 03:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Location: Alexandria, VA
The AC does work, but the heat takes about 10 minutes to come on, functions for all of 30 seconds, then vanishes for another 10 minutes or so. I guess that would make sense.

Further update: I checked this morning and the coolant reservoir was just about empty. I filled it up and then let the car sit for a few hours. I came back and it was again just about empty. It's been raining consistently so I couldn't tell if it all leaked to the ground, but I'd say that's a good possibility.

I plan on taking out the coolant reservoir and checking it for leaks either tomorrow or the day after, and failing that, checking the hoses as well.
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Old 10-26-2003, 04:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
Junkie
 
Location: San Diego, CA.
yeah, sounds like a coolant leak will be your biggest concern. Who knows what problems that is masking, but i think fixing it should be the top priority before looking into coolant temp sensors or thermostats or whatnot. Could possibly be a blocked or leaking radiator too
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Old 10-26-2003, 05:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
Psycho
 
Location: In the garage, under the car.
Hopefully you're not leakng coolant internally (and it's burning off). Fill it with coolant, park it overnight, and check underneath in the morning.

You can also use a pressure tester. It screws on were the cap goes on the coolant tank. You pump it up to pressurize the system, and any major leaks should become apparent.

With all the coolant you're losing, don't forget to watch out for air trapped in the system.
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Old 10-26-2003, 06:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Location: Alexandria, VA
It didn't at all run the car between last night and this evening, and the reservoir drained twice in that time period, so I'm pretty sure it's just a leak in a hose or the reservoir itself. We've been having a lot of rain so I couldn't check under the car to see about it draining out to the ground.

From what I could tell, the radiator was holding pressure, but I'll definitely try out all of your suggestions.
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Old 10-27-2003, 07:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
Crazy
 
Location: Indiana
Most likely place for a leak on a jap car of this vintage is the radiator itself. If you get a dry day soon I'd pay particular attention to the radiator. Especially the areas where the tanks attach to the core.



There also seems to be some confusion about the cooling fan(s). First off, I believe (I had a 91 integra) there are 2 fans. Both electric. This is a very common arrangement. They should turn freely by hand. If everything else were working properly you should be able to simply start your car and leave it idle. Between five and fifteen minutes later the primary fan should run and begin to cycle on and off. This will happen even on cold days. The second fan often only runs in conjunction with the A/C. I believe this is the case with your car but I don't remember for sure.

Last edited by rs8001; 10-27-2003 at 07:20 PM..
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Old 10-27-2003, 10:37 PM   #13 (permalink)
I am Winter Born
 
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Location: Alexandria, VA
The radiator seems to be holding fluid, though I can't verify (damn constant rain). I've driven it about an hour or two total since my last post in this thread, to test it out a fair bit -- pushed the car pretty hard, and it's holding steady at normal temperature. I haven't had a chance to check for leaks in the coolant reservoir or hoses.

However, I'll keep the radiator in mind (and pray it's not that).
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Old 10-28-2003, 05:08 AM   #14 (permalink)
Junkie
 
Location: NJ
On older vehicles (not sure if they are the same anymore) there was a nice easy way to test the thremostat. Remove it and place it in a pot of water on the stove. As the water comes to a boil, the thermostat should open. If it doesn't then it's bad. Of course, in most cases, it's just as easy to throw a new one in as to test an old one.
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Old 10-28-2003, 07:31 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Location: Alexandria, VA
Yea, my car's Haynes manual recommended doing exactly that to test and see if the thermostat was bad. I haven't gotten around to finding tools to take it out, as it seems from the manual like it's something that requires a bit more than bare hands to get at.
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Old 10-28-2003, 07:50 AM   #16 (permalink)
Junkie
 
Location: NJ
Quote:
Originally posted by Pragma
Yea, my car's Haynes manual recommended doing exactly that to test and see if the thermostat was bad. I haven't gotten around to finding tools to take it out, as it seems from the manual like it's something that requires a bit more than bare hands to get at.
Yeah, it's usually right around where the top radiator hose connects up to the engine. A couple of bolts is all that holds the cover in place but sometimes you've got to remove other things to access it. Given that thermostats are only a couple of bucks, I just replace the old one with a new one (making sure to get the right temperature thermo) since it will eventually need to be replaced anyway.
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