08-20-2003, 01:58 AM | #1 (permalink) |
Addict
Location: Portland
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The ever troublesome Clutch...
I shold forewarn... I'm a total jackass when it comes to cars.. I know almost NOTHING. You know how you think your grandma doesn't know anything? I know less than her...
but, I do know my clutch is slipping. And I know, from having already taken it in before, that it's easily fixable... for now... apparently, the clutch cable is getting loose or something, and there's still "half of it left for tightening".. when I shift (manual), and push the gas too hard too soon, the engine revs up for a second, effectively killing my torque, and making it a slow pain in the ass going up hill (I live in Seattle, lots of steep hills)... repair at car shop - $40 money to name - $1.37 So... does anybody know how I can go about fixing this myself? or at least point me to a website full of useful information? =) thanks in advance! Shu'kran, - Jesiah - |
08-20-2003, 08:43 AM | #3 (permalink) |
Deliberately unfocused
Location: Amazon.com and CDBaby
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We could use more info: make, model, year, engine etc. If the shop only wants $40.00, it can't be too complicated.
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"Regret can be a harder pill to swallow than failure .With failure you at least know you gave it a chance..." David Howard |
08-20-2003, 10:53 AM | #4 (permalink) |
Junkie
Location: San Diego, CA.
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my guess if he says its the cable (which is wierd. almost all cars in the last many years have used hydraulic fluid and master/slve cylinders rather than mechanical links) is that the clutch isn't fully engaging. Thus when ya get to higher revs or WOT, there is too much torque on a clutch plate with a minimal connection, so it breaks free and slips.
Where is the clutch point on your pedal? how far down do you hafta push? If you barely hafta push on the clutch pedal for it to be disengaged, then it might be a cable connection. If not, then cables aren't your problem probably. My guess is that the car guys you went to is talking outta his ass and doesn't know what is going on. But its hard to say without knowing more information, such as the car, year, and other stuff. Like if its acting any different than it used to before it strated slipping. And which gears does it slip most in? or equal in all gears?
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08-20-2003, 04:25 PM | #5 (permalink) |
Addict
Location: Portland
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It's a '93 Subary Legacy Wagon 4WD...
I've already had this fixed once.. I bought it knowing that the "clutch slips" over time... so took it to a subary specialist that's done work on it since the last owner bought it... he fixed it for $40 and stated what I said above (cable slipping, etal)... and yah, the worse the clutch gets, the less give there is in the clutch when I first push down.. thanks much for the thoughts so far =) |
08-20-2003, 07:57 PM | #6 (permalink) |
Deliberately unfocused
Location: Amazon.com and CDBaby
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Go to the library. Find a "Motors" manual, or Chilton or Haynes for your make and model. You will find detailed instructions, and illustrations too, probably. Alternatively, visit yur local auto parts store that sells Chilton or Haynes manuals and ask them to let you look in it. The next time you have a $20.00 bill, go there and buy the manual. It will save you hundreds of dollars over the next several years.
__________________
"Regret can be a harder pill to swallow than failure .With failure you at least know you gave it a chance..." David Howard |
08-20-2003, 08:10 PM | #7 (permalink) |
Upright
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For starters, and having owned an All Wheel Drive Subaru myself, I must mention that these cars wear through "standard" replacement clutches like no-ones business.
This is due to the extra strain on the all wheel drive drivetrain. for $40 the fix sounds like the cable just needs adjusting... I am guessing that yours is probably the same as mine. How to fix (disclaimer do this at your own peril - you asked and i'm trying to answer) 1. Get someone to sit int he car and press the clutch pedal while you stand with the bonnet open and check to see where the clutch cable is. 2. Once you have identified the clutch cable, you will need 2 spanners (10 millimetres and 12 millimetres) to shift the position of the two different sized nuts on the adjuster (bolt looking bit) 3. I can't remember whether further in or further out tightens up the adjustment 4. Good luck 5. I just sold my Subaru because I couldn't afford the maintenance - it was the best thing I ever did ! -Nick |
08-22-2003, 02:52 PM | #8 (permalink) |
Deliberately unfocused
Location: Amazon.com and CDBaby
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Info from Motors manual:
1) Remove clutch fork return spring. 2) Turn adjusting nut at fork end to obtain an endplay of .012-.016 inch.Use care not to twist clutch cable. (emphasis from manual.) 3) Check to ensure clutch release lever full stroke measures 1.004-1.063 inch.
__________________
"Regret can be a harder pill to swallow than failure .With failure you at least know you gave it a chance..." David Howard |
08-25-2003, 07:39 PM | #10 (permalink) |
Deliberately unfocused
Location: Amazon.com and CDBaby
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Here's the tough part:
Push away from the computer desk, go out into the world and find a manual. Try the library first. I Google searched a bit. Found parts listings but no service reference of any consequence.
__________________
"Regret can be a harder pill to swallow than failure .With failure you at least know you gave it a chance..." David Howard |
Tags |
clutch, troublesome |
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