kebo

Hey all,
I'm doing a bath remodel, and will be removing the existing shower pan and replacing it. The shower I have is 48" x 34" and looks something like this from the top:
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|....................................|
|....................................|
|....................................|
|x..............d...................|
|....................................|
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|....................................|
c-c-c-c-c-c-c-c-c-c-c-c-c-c-c-c-c
x- faucet
d- drain
c- curtain
(hope you get the jist)

I want to add a little wall and make it like this
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|....................................|
|....................................|
|....................................|
|x..............d...................|
|....................................|
|....................................|
|....................................|
=======-------DOOR------------
(this is not to scale the added wall is only6"-12"

problem is I can't get a shower pan to acomodate the added wall. So I'm thinking about hot mopping the pan, but I've never done it: I've built my own house before, but have never done or seen done a hot mopped shower. Have you ever done a hot mop before? Are there other ways? Any suggestions, pointers, or comments in general?
thanks

kevin

Hard8s

So I take it that there is a lip where the curtain is? Or is it just flat and sloped back to the drain? Either way I think you're going to have to put a frame in for the door. Why not just build over the pan and flash it or caulk it? Notch the bottom studs of the wall for the pan height so they have a footprint and marry it to the wall studs for support. Its not like the little wall is going to be load bearing.

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If ignorance is bliss, then wipe this smile off my face!

kebo

The pan has to go because it's a complete shower stall with the walls and its old, decrepit, and just doesn't look good. I would like to tile the shower also. Just putting a wall up over the exsisting pan just wouldn't be right.
kevin

kazoo

Your other option if you cannot find a proper size preformed pan is to do a mud base tiled pan. Yes, it's a helluva lotta work, and I wouldn't advise someone to try it who hasn't previously worked with tile, but that is one way to achieve custom sizes. Some membranes are available to take the place of a traditional lead or copper under pan, and there are also some plastic kits to assist with forming the slope of the mud bed evenly on all sides towards the drain receptor.

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There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy

kebo

Yeah...this is what I'm looking for, and I've done tile
So if ya don't mind a couple of questions eh? How do you do it? I'll have my floor exposed to the sub floor and probably exposed 2x4 framing were the shower wall was. Should I block from the floor up about 4 inches, build a threashold were the door wiill be, put a "membrane down, and lay about 2" of mud sloped properly then tile?
kevin

ps (psst., don't tell the wife, but I dont mind a helluva lotta work )

kazoo

I'd first perform tearout and rough framing for the new enclosure as necessary. Atop the wood subfloor I'd set a base of 1/4" cementitious board product such as Cemrock, Eternit, or Hardibacker. Then install the formable membrane along with drain receptor. Set the slope guides and place the mud bed, and finally the finish tile. If you don't have one, pick up a current copy of the TCA handbook since new materials mandate revisions. Based upon specifics of your job, you may see options which are easier yet still meet standards.

Also, if you have the opportunity to attend a show where he is lecturing or giving hands-on, Michael Byrne is an excellent speaker and instructor.

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There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy

kebo

ummm yeah....i think i'll call a pro
thanks for all the input
kevin

kazoo

Some of the people who take my adult evening education classes end up going that route, but at least it's an informed decision.

__________________
There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy