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Originally posted by LStanley
I can guarantee you that a REAL bass freq. is anywhere from 20-80 hertz... anything MORE than that is MID-range.. PERIOD....
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Incorrect. There is no set in stone frequency chart that one can refer to to see what frequency is what. As a generalization, frequencies above 80 Hz or so would be mid BASS... mid RANGE is typically in the 100-400 Hz range.
Quote:
Originally posted by LStanley
I can almost guarantee you that the hertz listed is the crossover frequency for the UPPER limit of the Bass Frequency Boost...
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Incorrect. This is the center frequency.
Quote:
Originally posted by LStanley
and on your comment on "do I need subs?" well.. unless you have some SERIOUS and I do mean SERIOUS component speakers you won't even hear a bass frequency worth a flip....
yes the lil factory speakers will play a 40 hertz waveform... but its gonna sound terrible and not have any kick...
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So my Alpine Type R 5.25" components that are HPF'd at 63 Hz can't do that? They can't reproduce sounds that are "BASS" and run from 63-80 Hz? (that's BASS right??) I'll tell you they do a good job, and all for only $249. My previous JL Audio XR653CS's would make your nose bleed at 60 Hz. Those can be had for $599.
Quote:
Originally posted by LStanley
Just for some kick and idea.. a good rule of thumb: every 7dB's is TWICE a loud as the number b4 it.. say 87dB's is TWICE as loud as 80, and 94 is TWICE that of 87 and 4 TIMES that of 80... etc... its exponential..
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Again, incorrect. A doubling of power (i.e. cone area or amp power) should theoretically give a 3 dB gain. However, a 3 dB of gain is not necessarily a doubling of output.
Quote:
Originally posted by LStanley
anyways... my advice.... find a friend that can do install, most car stereo shops will FUCK you on install, then find some subwoofer on the net that has some credibility to it... buy one from that company that has a GIGANTIC magnet on it >80oz (ideaolgically 100oz for a 10, 120 for a 12 etc.)... (easiest way to explain what a good sub is to ppl who are clueless)
then get an amplifier that has the BEST wattage output for your $, watts, are watts, are watts... no REAL need to find an Alpine amp or Boston Acoustics or whatever unless you are hooking a computer to test the waveform... a Pyramid amp or whatever cheap one you find will work wonders.. get like a 500 watt amp or better.. (check the wattage handling of the subwoofer)
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I can't speak for the shops where you are, but the ones around here (like mine) take extremely good care of our customers. We have a saying in the industry... "friends don't let friends install car audio" I've seen many a dash plate or door panel broken or cracked from a friend that said his install skills were up to the task. All to save a few bucks. Basic car audio installs are not very expensive at all. $35 for a deck... $30 for speakers... c'mon here.... The fact that you say "buy a sub on the net" from a place that has "credibility to it." That's kind of an oxymoron in the car audio biz. Very few companies will warranty items purchased from (unauthorized) retailers on the 'net. A GIGANTIC magnet does not necessarily make a sub sound good either. Not to say that large magnet subs like JL W7's or Eclipse Aluminum's do not sound excellent. But having a large magnet is not a prerequisite for good SQ. I remember a Coustic sub from a few years back... nothing special.. probably like a $200 or so sub, no huge magnet, no giant roll surround, didn't need a zillion watts... and it pumped out an extremely clean and controlled note.
Watts are not watts. Play a 50wpc Jensen piece of shit, then play a 50wpc Alpine V-12 and tell me you don't hear a fucking difference.
Quote:
Originally posted by LStanley
wire that up, put some cheap lil highpass in-line sound filters on the speaker wire for your high's (the factory speakers) and then blow your eardrums out....
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How bout we call that plan B? Use the crossover in the deck if it has it.
Quote:
Originally posted by LStanley
oh and all your connecting cable... radio shack works fine.. don't bother with the 120$ RCA cables.. get the 10$ one from radio shack, just don't place the signal cable (RCA) next to your power cable... 
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Wow... coming from an IASCA (sound quality...) competitor.... Nothing says that you have to spend an excessive amount on cables... but a fucking $10 Radio Shack cable is certainly not the answer. Good cables can be had for $20-35.
Now that we have that shit settled....
If you aren't running subs and want to use those crossovers, you'd want them in high pass mode. This will allow frequencies above the crossover point to pass (HIGHer than the point PASSes thru). And a/d/s are an awesome speaker.