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Kingruv · 07-21-2007, 07:39 AM

Fire,

From your choice of the BHP from all the guns out there, I salute you for a great choice and doing your homework.

As to your question about the extractor:

1. Look at Brownells before you go further. There is a pretty good breakdown diagram for most American market guns there including the HP. Look at 3 things: the Wolff reduced load firing pin spring kit, the cost of a new extra firing pin and the extractor spring. On the page,
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sch...del=Hi-Power++
There is a list of available parts for what they have.
Those you can purchase without an ffl are unmarked. Those requiring an ffl are indicated.

2. If you don’t have a spring pin/roll pin punch set look at
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...LL+PIN+PUNCHES
If you’re not familiar with these you will be when you see them.
For driving out the hollow spring rolled pins that are so hard to get out without them. Not all HP’s have extractors held in by spring pins but I have seen few that didn’t.

3. Don’t degunk the extractor before removing.
The gunk can help slow down the inertia of the spring and slow its bounce if it does get away from you.

IF you have tried to clean it some already and even if not a good thing to do is put duct tape of masking tape around the slide to help hold and or catch the parts. Wrap a single layer around the slide and only expose the area where the pin is driven out. You can drive through the tape but this risks getting adhesive in the hole.

Inspect the spring closely to make sure there’s no kinks at all and no broken sections of coil missing near the ends.
It really wouldn’t hurt to replace this spring along with the recoil spring and firing pin spring. These are the 3 most worked parts in the gun relative to their strength and job.
Also look carefully at the extractor to make sure its smooth all the way around without having excess wear under the extractor face itself. It should be flat at the edge but smooth and not sharp.
Sometimes folks get happy with cheap ammo and buy old combloc surplus ammo that will damage gun parts. Varying amounts of extractor damage is a high crime area where this is concerned.

4. When holding the slide, locking it up in your vise is ok as long as you have wood blocks (white pine for this job) and tape the slide to prevent scratches. Don’t squeeze the slide too tight of course but make sure it is seated down far enough to get the solid cross section and not on the rails.

5. While at Brownells look at the bench blocks
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...&ps=10&si=True

There are a number of them there. Some general purpose, some weapon specific. While they are handy, you can make your own from solid material.
A good thick piece of hard maple about 2” thick is a great start.
Just make it to fit what you need. I make single use blocks to fit my vise or bench.
Drill some holes in logical order around the block as you go according to what you need, where you need it. (just not too close to the edge.
If a pin is 3/32” drill the hole just slightly larger all the way through. Turn the block over and drill out that hole to about ½” from the face with a drill at least 4 times the size so the pin can release when it comes through.

6. Crompsin mentioned a magnetic catch tray. Capitol idea! If you have gunky parts you can lay a paper towel wetted with Hoppes solvent or other cleaner to help prevent bounce and help keep the tray clean, the magnets still work. If you see mush being attracted in pattern to the magnet look to see if it is fine metal and not just powder fouling and brass. If you’re using a metal magnetic tray you can also use it to flush the parts by using a fine mesh metal screen in the bottom of the tray to let residue float through. Some people use a stainless steel metal food colander to do this but some are too open mesh.

Clean and inspect

7. Check the pin as well as the extractor for excess wear. The fouling as you are aware can cause uneven wear as well binding. The pin MAY need to be replaced but not likely.
8. The parts can be treated with Miltec-1 and then wiped dry to both coat and lube without remaining wet. Some people will use grease in this orifice hoping to block out fouling. This was probably the best way in the winter of’39. When the gun warms up after several shots or 80 degree plus weather, this is totally counter productive. The Miltec-1 can also be used for the feed ramp, slide rails and other metal to metal as well.
Mixed with the oil in my 30 hp immersion rotary screw air-compressor it cooled the beast from a rather warm 195 degrees down to 169 degrees. This was using 6 ounces in 5 gallons of synthetic fluid. This of course is used wet. When wiped down dry it continues to bind to metal surfaces for a very prolonged period.

Reassembly
Take your sweet time

9. If everything is close and tight putting the extractor back in can be a thumb bruiser. A leather finger cot like used for working with sharpened fishing hooks can come in handy.
10. Make sure the orifice is clean.
11. Replace parts into position and use a loose fitting pin punch to hold parts in slot.
Manipulate extractor to check for smoothness.

12. Re-tape extractor by wrapping slide in tape a second time.
13. Push pin back into place, pushing against smaller pin punch to transfer contact until roll pin passes back through hinge hole. Certainly this can be a little tricky. If needed the end of the pin inserted can be slightly rounded to help make this smoother. Place pin in drill chuck and spin against file or sand paper to bevel.
14. When extractor pin is in correct position go ahead and slide smaller pin out.
15. With slide secure, tap pin back into final position.
16. Recheck extractor to assure smooth function
17. Use dummy rounds to check extraction after reassembly of weapon.

You probably know most of this but just in case someone else doesn’t it can be saved for later.

There are some tune up’s you can do to make things smoother and better if you’re interested.

07-21-2007, 07:39 AM	#18 (permalink)
Kingruv Upright Location: NoVa	Fire, From your choice of the BHP from all the guns out there, I salute you for a great choice and doing your homework. As to your question about the extractor: 1. Look at Brownells before you go further. There is a pretty good breakdown diagram for most American market guns there including the HP. Look at 3 things: the Wolff reduced load firing pin spring kit, the cost of a new extra firing pin and the extractor spring. On the page, http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sch...del=Hi-Power++ There is a list of available parts for what they have. Those you can purchase without an ffl are unmarked. Those requiring an ffl are indicated. 2. If you don’t have a spring pin/roll pin punch set look at http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...LL+PIN+PUNCHES If you’re not familiar with these you will be when you see them. For driving out the hollow spring rolled pins that are so hard to get out without them. Not all HP’s have extractors held in by spring pins but I have seen few that didn’t. 3. Don’t degunk the extractor before removing. The gunk can help slow down the inertia of the spring and slow its bounce if it does get away from you. IF you have tried to clean it some already and even if not a good thing to do is put duct tape of masking tape around the slide to help hold and or catch the parts. Wrap a single layer around the slide and only expose the area where the pin is driven out. You can drive through the tape but this risks getting adhesive in the hole. Inspect the spring closely to make sure there’s no kinks at all and no broken sections of coil missing near the ends. It really wouldn’t hurt to replace this spring along with the recoil spring and firing pin spring. These are the 3 most worked parts in the gun relative to their strength and job. Also look carefully at the extractor to make sure its smooth all the way around without having excess wear under the extractor face itself. It should be flat at the edge but smooth and not sharp. Sometimes folks get happy with cheap ammo and buy old combloc surplus ammo that will damage gun parts. Varying amounts of extractor damage is a high crime area where this is concerned. 4. When holding the slide, locking it up in your vise is ok as long as you have wood blocks (white pine for this job) and tape the slide to prevent scratches. Don’t squeeze the slide too tight of course but make sure it is seated down far enough to get the solid cross section and not on the rails. 5. While at Brownells look at the bench blocks http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...&ps=10&si=True There are a number of them there. Some general purpose, some weapon specific. While they are handy, you can make your own from solid material. A good thick piece of hard maple about 2” thick is a great start. Just make it to fit what you need. I make single use blocks to fit my vise or bench. Drill some holes in logical order around the block as you go according to what you need, where you need it. (just not too close to the edge. If a pin is 3/32” drill the hole just slightly larger all the way through. Turn the block over and drill out that hole to about ½” from the face with a drill at least 4 times the size so the pin can release when it comes through. 6. Crompsin mentioned a magnetic catch tray. Capitol idea! If you have gunky parts you can lay a paper towel wetted with Hoppes solvent or other cleaner to help prevent bounce and help keep the tray clean, the magnets still work. If you see mush being attracted in pattern to the magnet look to see if it is fine metal and not just powder fouling and brass. If you’re using a metal magnetic tray you can also use it to flush the parts by using a fine mesh metal screen in the bottom of the tray to let residue float through. Some people use a stainless steel metal food colander to do this but some are too open mesh. Clean and inspect 7. Check the pin as well as the extractor for excess wear. The fouling as you are aware can cause uneven wear as well binding. The pin MAY need to be replaced but not likely. 8. The parts can be treated with Miltec-1 and then wiped dry to both coat and lube without remaining wet. Some people will use grease in this orifice hoping to block out fouling. This was probably the best way in the winter of’39. When the gun warms up after several shots or 80 degree plus weather, this is totally counter productive. The Miltec-1 can also be used for the feed ramp, slide rails and other metal to metal as well. Mixed with the oil in my 30 hp immersion rotary screw air-compressor it cooled the beast from a rather warm 195 degrees down to 169 degrees. This was using 6 ounces in 5 gallons of synthetic fluid. This of course is used wet. When wiped down dry it continues to bind to metal surfaces for a very prolonged period. Reassembly Take your sweet time 9. If everything is close and tight putting the extractor back in can be a thumb bruiser. A leather finger cot like used for working with sharpened fishing hooks can come in handy. 10. Make sure the orifice is clean. 11. Replace parts into position and use a loose fitting pin punch to hold parts in slot. Manipulate extractor to check for smoothness. 12. Re-tape extractor by wrapping slide in tape a second time. 13. Push pin back into place, pushing against smaller pin punch to transfer contact until roll pin passes back through hinge hole. Certainly this can be a little tricky. If needed the end of the pin inserted can be slightly rounded to help make this smoother. Place pin in drill chuck and spin against file or sand paper to bevel. 14. When extractor pin is in correct position go ahead and slide smaller pin out. 15. With slide secure, tap pin back into final position. 16. Recheck extractor to assure smooth function 17. Use dummy rounds to check extraction after reassembly of weapon. You probably know most of this but just in case someone else doesn’t it can be saved for later. There are some tune up’s you can do to make things smoother and better if you’re interested.