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OK, a few years ago, when I was 15, me and my pops were swimming a Acapulco, Mexico, while on a vacation.
Anyway, the sea pretty much scuked us behing the waves, to that point were the waves keep dragging you back no matter what you do... normally you wait for the waves to "calm down". that's what we did..
when we saw that the waves were smaller, we started breast-stroking toward the beach.. well my dad was faster and got closer, but the waves went up again, and I was caught..
So I quiclky and stupidly analyzed the situation and thought "well, I'm getting tired quick, so I might as well take my chances.."
So i decided to bodysurf(swimming at the speed of the wave and using ur body as a board) one of the big waves. I saw one that later became about 12 feet high at peak(I didnt know that yet) and swam like a madman..
Everything was going well, but i underestimated it. the wave pushed me all the way on top...and I knew what that means...so I was like oh crap..
so i was up there staring down and it swung me around so I was belly up...staring at the sky (ohcrap ohcrap holyshit oh crap ohmygodddddddddd) and bam! threw me down with such strength, I was deep in water fliiping around..and it pushed me to the ground, and I stayed there for a good seconds be4 I could push up and pop out.
That was one of the scares of my life, and like most, I happened in less than 30 seconds.. The scary thing is the infinite power of that mass of water...you can't even fight agaisnt it...phew..
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