woohog1

Howdy all,
I would like to get started handloading, but really have no experience. Before I go off all willy nilly spending money I would really llike to know what supplies are essential, and what are the nice toys to have.
I have read many articles on the ease of handloading, and am currently looking at RCBS for my machine, but as I said earlier, I really have no experience.
Can anyone offer any insight? Any information would be helpful Thanks in Advance
Woohog1

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Bear Cub

Have you looked at Midway USA yet?

Poke around through their catalog. They offer all in one kits that are the basics you need to get started. Even if you don't buy their brand equipment, you can use it as a checklist to figure out just what it is you need to get your feet wet.

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woohog1

hadnt thought about that, but thats a good idea. I dont want anything over the top, but enough to be safe.

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kel

First get the Lyman reloading manual.

Then answer a few questions.

Are you reloading handgun or rifle or both?

How many rounds a month?

Do you shoot competitively?

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woohog1

I mostly use my weapons for hunting, and I will be reloading, pistol and rifle cartridges, not sure how many rounds per month, and no i do not shoot competativly

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Kingruv

Warning from the Surgeon General of Shooting Sports:
Reloading metallic cartridges and shotgun shells can lead to the following disorders; Carpal tunnel syndrome, tennis elbow, OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder), loss of decision making skills(choosing between calibers), marital disruption.
Contraindications to the above include but not limited to; euphoria, feelings of giddiness, accelerated fatigue from extended shooting practice, intense personal satisfaction, limited nirvana, relief of adult onset ADD.

Previous advice is all good.

My recommendations to myself:

I always reloaded to optimize performance for a specific task.
The heaviest load is rarely the best.
The fastest isn't usually the most stable.
The biggest bullet isn't typically needed or desired.
Record results. Keep track of everything.
Paying attention pays off.

You can experiment with powders, primers, cases, projectiles that will give you better perspective on how to shoot, how to tune your gun, how to economize overall. A decent 200$ to 300$ gun with a select handload can outperform a 3000$ gun with factory ammo consistantly.

I reccommend finding an Elmer. Thats the old timer that knows what's going on close by to you can give give all his wisdom, prejudice and hype for personal preferences. Between all this you will get some raw insight into this process. It can be a pretty good buddy project too.
If you live in Arkansas, almost any small town library should have a few books on the shelf on this subject. In your case, the older books may be better for beginners. Look for the names Nonte and Hatcher for old classics. The subject hasn't changed enormously over the past 50 years though component and material science has.
Gun Digest Magazine has an annualy updated paperback manual widely available which is very good too.

Currently component prices are rising due to worldwide rise in ammo prices and costs of raw material stock.

Decide what you need to reload first (which gun/cartridge)
Learn on it and build from there. Don't choose an exotic because it is more expensive to buy off the shelf and you want to save money reloading. IE. If you have a .308 or .30'06 pick one of those first since you have the widest latitude in parts and components to choose from in powder, bullets and load combinations.

Each one of the bullet manufacturers compiles a manual on the tests for differing powders and primers showing safe low to high loads for modern components.

Makes such as Lee and RCBS make most everything you need for a broad range of reloading. I have never found any company to lack in sufficiently engineering equipment though I did snap off a lever arm on a new Redding bench mounted press several years ago. I was seated at the time so this shouldn't have happened. But things sometimes break even when new.
Dillon Precision makes handloading equipment second to none but does not have a single-stage press. (pity)

Look at the gunshows in your area for deals on the flea market tables for used presses. A used press would have to have real abuse to not be decently functional.
Your main cost will end up being in resizing/reloading dies. Again you can get used and sometimes new in box/old stock at decent prices.
take an inspection light to look inside though. Nicks and other damage to the inside is not typically repairable unless you have machine shop equipment and then probably wouldn't be worth your time. Dies are (should be) somewhat a mirror image of a guns chamber in some respects. Size (spec'd) matters. Look inside for surface rust or other problems. They can easily rust if not kept in decently dry storage. Dies can and will wear out over repeated use so use caution on used dies.

One indispensible tool is not a tool but a gauge. Get a very good digital caliper for measuring and checking cases, die setup and other parts is a must.
Not to lay it on too thick but just to put it out here.
It's not entirely rocket science though it is in part, but the scientists and engineers have worked out the hard parts and kinks for you.
This is not a guessing game. You are working with a controlled explosion in some regards. If a load is too light a bullet can get stuck in the barrel. If it is too heavy it can cause catastrophic failure of the firearm.
The main thing is to pay attention to details and not be distracted while working.
DO NOT put any load into a firearm while inside a building, ever.
Trying empty cases in the chamber is one thing, if it has a live primer, do not put it in unless you are outside and have a safe area to load it.
Keep all primers and powder in their original container.
Never put powder back into its original container after it has been decanted into a powder measure or powder drop. This is a hygiene issue. Once decanted, powder will pick up moisture from the air which will go into the container if put back in.
Once powder has gone into a measuring device, label it with masking tape so there is never any doubt as to it's type.
Get out only what you need to use for immediate use. Better to refill than overpour.

Technically speaking, gun powder is really propellant. It burns in the open as compared to black powder which is a low order explosive.
Primers on the other hand are actually little explosives (and somewhat high order at that) The primer detonates the propellant quickly to make the instantaneous discharge.
Store primers separately from powder. Keep them in a dry box such as a plastic tool box with dessicant to keep them dry.

Use safety glasses while reloading. Just as with anything else where small metal is involved.

These above are some of the important basics.

There are plenty of folks willing to help once you tap the talent pool.
I've loaded 10's of thousands of cartridges over the years and thousands of shotgun hulls. Nothing I have written above should scare you away from reloading, just caveats I thought should be mentioned.
If you have any questions I'll be glad to try and answer them or give you a pointy finger of direction.

Have a happy 4th

MSD

If you look at the Lee hand presses, it should be so you can fine tune loads at the range, not as a primary setup unless you consider carpal tunnel syndrome a recreational activity.

biznatch

I had absolutely no idea people loaded empty shells by hand. I'm kind of a gun noob(even though I like guns), and this is quite fascinating. Is it much cheaper to do this than to buy pre-loaded rounds?

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Slims

It's much, much cheaper.

For instance: I used to load .45 Colt by hand, among other things. .45 Colt rounds are in very high demand now, though since they are not *mainstream* they are expensive. They are also large, requiring a lot of lead and brass. A box of 50 .45 Colt rounds probably cost about 20 dollars several years ago and is likely more now. I could handload 500 for about $40.

Greg

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