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Old 03-09-2005, 04:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
My 1990 Nissan Stanza Rebuild Project. Warning HUGE post

Well with gas prices getting higher and higher I decided to fully rebuild the engine in my 1990 nissan stanza..if you've seen the previous post you know what the problem is. I checked around some salvage yard and the best price I could find for an engine was $350 for the bare engine (no alternator, starter, etc) with 173k on it.....I checked around and with machine work for a grand total of $500 I will have the engine fully rebuilt, and as usual I don't like to half ass my work. So here is my pics and progress of what I have done in the past month.

This is pics of the car when I first got it.












These are pics of me tearing the head off, I was hoping it was just a blown headgasket was the problem,,,but nope

The car all jacked up and ready to be worked on.

Valve cover tore off, not to bad looking under there, besides a little water. Tore the heat shield off too.

Close view of the engine with the valve cover off.

Took the distributor off, the cap was shot, but they are cheap and I wouldn't reuse it, that would be like reusing a condom.

Exhaust manifold taken off, really easy to do, the one emission pipe wouldn't budge, even with heat on it, so I too the easy way out and cut it.

Hmm, time to take the alternator out.

Valve cover all nicely sandblasted clean, what an improvement!

Alternator taken off.

More brackets to take off.



Crankshaft pulley taken off.

Nice mess huh?

Head off and timing chain cover off.

Cylinders, look at the small chunks missing it in. Probably can't rebore it...




Valve cover painted.

Pulleys painted.

Exhaust manifold painted

Valve cover finished

Head all cleaned.


The block being stripped
tore the block down..crank is good....pics show the rest of the story












This is my intake, kinda a nightmare of vacuum and cooling hoses but I should be able to clean it up.



This is the top plenum I removed, might as well do the engine right the first time.


This is the lower plenum, doesn't it look so much more spiffy after it has been bead blasted?


This is the tranny I pulled a few weeks ago...gotta split it open to replace the damn filter, also I need to do the cv joint and front seal in it.






Here are the heater/vacuum hoses i'm painting




Here's my timing chain cover I just sandblasted and had welded.



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Old 03-09-2005, 04:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Lookin' good! Can't wait to see the finished product.
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Old 03-09-2005, 05:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Looks really good, sometimes I wish I had the tools/time to do things like this.
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Old 03-09-2005, 08:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Location: The Woodlands, TX
wish i had the time/money/facilities to do this kinda stuff!

would be really cool to be able to do that
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Old 03-09-2005, 08:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Its like Overhauling TFP style.

Looking forward to more updates.
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Old 03-10-2005, 07:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Why did you need to weld the timing chain cover?

I really like the cleaning and repainting you're doing.
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Old 03-10-2005, 08:45 AM   #7 (permalink)
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looks like you're doing really good work. thanks for sharing!
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Old 03-10-2005, 09:24 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Quote:
Originally Posted by mazagmot
Why did you need to weld the timing chain cover?
Well when I first got the got one of the first things to do was take the head/timing chain cover. Little to my knowledge was that I need to take the oil pan off to get to a hidden bolt. So after prying I broke that corner tab off but luckily once I get the weld cleaned up the machine shop that is boring out my block says it should work perfectly fine. I still need to run to the nissan dealer to pick up some misc parts....I wish the nissan dealer wasnt' so damn spendy for parts
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Old 03-11-2005, 01:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Location: S. Korea
Having to buy from the dealer does suck. They love to gouge out your wallet.

You're going to be able to use your current cylinder sleeves with just an overbore? Sweet deal.

Last edited by mazagmot; 03-12-2005 at 03:54 PM..
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Old 03-11-2005, 07:59 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Damn man, good work! I like that you took a lot of pics too. It helps shows the before and after of some of the parts you cleaned up/fixed. Have fun with your project.
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Old 03-13-2005, 06:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Looking good. Can't wait to see the finished product.
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Old 03-14-2005, 05:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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awesome so far. hey,try not to spend more than the car is worth!!
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Old 03-14-2005, 04:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Well I cleaned up the weld on the timing cover.
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Old 03-15-2005, 02:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Got my taylor wires today $17 after discount better than $38 for oem ones


Started to paint my timing cover today



The inprogress pic of painting my upper intake plenum

[img]
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Old 03-16-2005, 03:48 AM   #15 (permalink)
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what are using to mask over the holes? I've never seen lime green masking tape.
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Old 03-16-2005, 08:57 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Quote:
Originally Posted by mazagmot
what are using to mask over the holes? I've never seen lime green masking tape.
It's a fancy 3m masking tape. Most body shops use it. It seems to stick better and not leave residue on the gasket surfaces.
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Old 03-16-2005, 09:00 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Finished my upper intake plenum.




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Old 03-17-2005, 02:24 AM   #18 (permalink)
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wow, this is unbelievable stuff...

very interesting thread right here

keep up the good work man.
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Old 03-17-2005, 08:32 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazagmot
what are using to mask over the holes? I've never seen lime green masking tape.

Quote:
Originally Posted by merkerguitars
It's a fancy 3m masking tape. Most body shops use it. It seems to stick better and not leave residue on the gasket surfaces.

and doesn't take the paint off with it.
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Old 03-17-2005, 08:22 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Running total of prices for fixing the car so far ( all prices raised up to the nearest dollar).

Price of car $200

Price of getting head machined, pressure checked and cleaned $88

Thermostat $10

PCV Valve $3

Passenger side tie rod boot $11

Upper radiator hose $10

Heater hose $8

Other heater hose $9

Serpentine belt $17

AC Belt $15

Distributor rotor $7

Water pump $37

Distributor cap $14

Total of $429 so far.
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Old 03-17-2005, 09:02 PM   #21 (permalink)
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not bad.... but as u say so far!
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Old 03-18-2005, 09:01 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Thats looking really impressive man, keep the updates coming. Its quite cool to actually see a motor being reduced to component parts.
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Old 03-19-2005, 01:56 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Well today I started to attempt to clean up my distributor.
So I took it apart and lo and behold I found some oil in it (which means the innersear is going bad. And in the process I ruined a bearing. I found a rebuild kit that has a new bushing, bearing and seal for $50. On the plus side I was able to sandblast and clear coat my alternator housing, which makes it look alot better.
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Old 03-19-2005, 02:08 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Accidently double posted....mods please delete if not i'll fill in with more pics and progress
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Old 03-19-2005, 02:20 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Accidently triple posted....mods please delete if not i'll fill in with more pics and progress...stupid internet
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Old 03-19-2005, 03:55 AM   #26 (permalink)
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sounds like a good day at work.
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:55 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Well today was an alright day...I stopped buy the dealersh...I mean Stealership and checked out the following prices on these parts

Front Subframe Grommets (2)

Rear Subframe Grommets (2)

Distributor Seal and Bearing

Intake Manifold Fittings

Tranny pan gasket

Tranny bellhousing gasket


Prices where the following
Front Subframe Grommets (2) $12 a piece..screw that...too much $$ when a universal grommet will do that I can get $7 for 25 of the bastards

Rear Subframe Grommets (2) $7 a piece...ditto

Distributor Seal and Bearing couldn't get them but found a place that sold bearings and seals, I was able to get the bearing for $7 and the seal for $1.70. The only autoparts soter that carried anything similar was napa and they wanted $50 for the bushing, seal and bearing, :humps: that

Intake Manifold Fittings $10 for one $13 for another

Tranny pan gasket only $8 not to shabby

The Tranny bellhousing gasket was $18...kinda harsh but you gotta do what you gotta do

I'll update my price list of what I have into the car...so far so good..still waiting for my block..they did get it boiled...way better...now they just have to bore it...
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Old 03-24-2005, 09:28 AM   #28 (permalink)
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This is personally interesting to me as I used to have a '90 Stanza and I quite enjoyed it. Keep up the good work!
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Old 03-24-2005, 10:44 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merkerguitars
Well with gas prices getting higher and higher I decided to fully rebuild the engine in my 1990 nissan stanza..if

Kudos for deciding to fix rather than replace. You'll end up with a better car, fully paid off, with the only expenses being fuel, maintennance & insurance. Very smart.

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Old 03-24-2005, 03:25 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Well more progress done today...
First job to do was to clean up that rusted transmission pan
here's what it looked like after I pulled it off



now here's what it looks like after it has been sandblasted



here's a pic of while i'm painting it along with my power steering brackets

so far this is my rack o parts


Here's the tranny as it sits...I had to split it to change the filter in it.



Here's pics of the car as it sits outside my work



Here's the dent my roomie put in it dropping the block on the fender...oh well good thing I also work at a body shop

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Old 03-25-2005, 06:23 AM   #31 (permalink)
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I just noticed this thread as I have been away, and have one suggestion. If the timing chain guides are the COMPLETELY plastic kind, replace them with the metal overlayed with plastic ones that were introduced as countermeasures for the originals as the originals would break quite regularly and would cause the timing chain to jump and possibly damage valves and valve guides. Just a heads up, as I see you are going full bore I suspect you will replace them, but I didnt see them on a parts list so I figured I'd mention them.




MYM.....
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Old 03-27-2005, 03:12 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Quote:
Originally Posted by G5_MYM
I just noticed this thread as I have been away, and have one suggestion. If the timing chain guides are the COMPLETELY plastic kind, replace them with the metal overlayed with plastic ones that were introduced as countermeasures for the originals as the originals would break quite regularly and would cause the timing chain to jump and possibly damage valves and valve guides. Just a heads up, as I see you are going full bore I suspect you will replace them, but I didnt see them on a parts list so I figured I'd mention them.
Well the stock ones are completey plastic and that was a common problem of timing chain driven nissans of this era. The engine kit I ordered from the machine shop comes with an all metal timing chain/guide set. Friday I was supposed to pick up my shortblock, but I was sick again...this tuesday I should be able to start slamming it together
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Old 03-29-2005, 10:22 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Well good and bad news today...got my block back and it cost about $500 more than I estimated, but I did get more parts in the engine kit than I figured, like a brand new timign cover. The main reason it was more expensive is cause of the timing cover, I had them assemble the short block. But with the good gas mileage I can get and having zero miles and with the body in pretty nice shape. I figure I could always sell the car if worse comes to worse. And it will be pretty reliable so it will be worth the time and money.
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Old 03-30-2005, 11:10 AM   #34 (permalink)
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after you do all this work I don't think you will want to sell it
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Old 03-30-2005, 06:47 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Well here I go.
Heres what my block looks like after I got it back from the machine shop.




Now we put the rear oil seal into the holder.


Here's pics of taping the block off. Damn it takes some time to do it right but you end up with better results.





Here's what the block looks like while it's being painted...here's a good tip..use a heat gun in between coats to make it adhere better











Having a leaky spray can sucks I had to clean the floor with paint thinner.


And here is the finished results












The color was a little more baby blue than I wanted but at least I can see leaks better and I was happy on how it turned out. This weekend I should be able to get a bunch more work done.
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Old 04-01-2005, 08:28 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Well got some more progress done today





















Here's what my AAC Valve looks like before one of my roomates polished it




Here's what The Distributor looks liek while I was rebuilding it





And here is my waterpump housing I started to assemble
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Old 04-03-2005, 12:34 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
I would of had the engine 90% done today but I ran into a few snags, first I need the proper woodruff key for the crankshaft pulley. Next there is a little oil seal that is round and about the size of a nickel that goes in between the block and the timing cover, I didn't get the proper sized one in the gasket kit. I still need to order a few parts, like spark plug wire dividers...might as well make it look nice.






















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Old 04-03-2005, 10:19 AM   #38 (permalink)
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This thread is awesome! Although I don't understand a lot about how the engine bits fit together, it's been amazing to see the engine broken apart and rebuilt into something so impressive.
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Old 04-03-2005, 01:49 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I'm really impressed with your work. You've put a lot of dedication, time, and money into this car, and it's going to show when you're finished.

My only question - why a Nissan Stanza? I know you're looking for good gas mileage (something I couldn't care less about), but I was just never crazy about them. If anything, I'd have gone with one of the Nissan 240 series.

Nonetheless, congrats on a truly amazing rebuild!
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Old 04-03-2005, 02:16 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Location: Wisconsin...
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM875
I'm really impressed with your work. You've put a lot of dedication, time, and money into this car, and it's going to show when you're finished.

My only question - why a Nissan Stanza? I know you're looking for good gas mileage (something I couldn't care less about), but I was just never crazy about them. If anything, I'd have gone with one of the Nissan 240 series.

Nonetheless, congrats on a truly amazing rebuild!
Well the reason of it being a Nissan Stanza is it was one of the all of a suddend finds. I was browsing through autotrader and found it for only $200 and I talked to the guy and I figured for $200 plus him sticking $150 in it awhile back for a new radiator I couldnt' really go wrong. I'll admit the car isn't the greatest looking car in the world but hey it will be a nice cheap reliable car. Now I figure it will be a grand total of $1500 I'll have into the car, but I won't have to deal with car payments, have cheap insurance and have peace of mind. A 240 would of been nice but wouldn't of made a good daily driver, since it's rwd it wouldn't of worked out in the Wisconsin winters as well as a fwd car. And since if I want to have a car with balls to the walls performance, thats what my mustang is for.
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