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Old 05-18-2004, 01:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Dear Gods of all things motor vehicles...

I need some help. I think my mechanic is screwing me over, but that is another story all together.

I know that pretty soon, my fuel filter is going to need to be replaced- at least that is what my mechanic is telling me. When I start my car, it is really shaky and at a really low idle. Today, the service engine light blinked for about five minutes and then just stayed on. Could this be because of the fuel filter?

I know that the engine light is controlled by the computer, so that only certian things trigger it. I was just wondering if the fuel filter was one of those things.
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Old 05-18-2004, 02:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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sounds like a starting point....

but if you really feel like he's not on the up and up... seek a second opinion.
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Old 05-18-2004, 02:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Location: louisianna
what kind of car are we working on. year make model,and milage please.the check engine light,being on is a signal from the computor that something is wrong,and it will produce a code.most major auto parts stores will read these codes for free. this kind of points to the direction of the problem or the area to start. as already stated the fuel filter is a great place to start. when was the last tune up? good luck.
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Old 05-18-2004, 03:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Location: San Diego, CA.
Well, if it blinked a couple times, then later decided to stay on, it sounds to me like its OBD1 -- a pre-1996 vehicle. If thats the case, its almost 10 years old, and probably has over 100k miles on it. Chances are, if you haven't replaced it yet, you are due for a fuel filter change anyway, even if thats not the problem. A fuel filter does match your symptoms though.

Also, if it IS obd1, then you computer wont store any codes. When something is wrong, it tells the computer, and it warns you. It stores a code in its memory, to let a technician know what went wrong, or the general area it happened in. If you car is 1995 or older, and your light turns on, you ought to go to your local auto parts store : Napa, Kragen, Pepboys, etc. and tell them what is wrong. They should be able to read the codes off your computer. But dont turn it off. Your computer probably doesn;t store those codes, so they hafta read em while they are happening.


Anyway, i think in this case, your mechanic is correct. Go to another shop and get a second opinion though, aside from a few bucks, it cant hurt a thing.
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Old 05-18-2004, 04:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Both OBD-1 and OBD-2 will store codes for a certain number of key cycles. What you describe sounds more like an ignition or a fuel delivery problem. Either a weak fuel pump (or a plugged fuel filter) or something in the ignition system, likely either worn plug wires, and/or plugs. A fuel filter itself won't set a code.

Get the codes that the vehicle set read, and get back to us. What kind of vehicle are you driving? Give us ALL the info that you can.
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Old 05-18-2004, 05:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I guess after re-reading the OP, the check engine light will probably end up being a misfire code. If that is true, then a host of things could cause that. A fuel filter is the cheap start. If it fixes it, then it was simple and inexpensive. If it doesn't, it probably needed it anyways.
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Old 05-18-2004, 05:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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DE137 wins! I went to auto zone- turns out my number 6 spark plug misfired. He erased the message so that the light would not stay on, and I still have to have someone look at the spark plug to see if it is okay. I hope it is, because I just got a tuneup not more than three months ago.

I did pick up a fuel and air filter while I was there, though. I replaced the air filter and need to do some research on the fuel filter.

Not that it matters now, but it is a 97 Chevy Lumina.
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Old 05-18-2004, 07:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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year,make , model, engine size and manual or auto matic trans. and miles ,any work recently done?are a lot of help to the online mechanic. you see with this we can picture at least what we are working on, and in a way,by the miles kind of try to figure outwhat might have worn out on you by the description of the problem you give. glad you got it going. by the way what was the code number? good luck.
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Old 05-18-2004, 07:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Your mechanic seems stupid, but not out to screw you or else he'd come up with more expensive than a fuel filter to replace. If the filter was clogged so much it was barely getting enough gas to idle, getting the car to move under its own power would pretty much be out of the question.

Sounds like it needs plug wires or an ignition coil/module to me, but having the actual code would make it easier to fully diagnose.
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Old 05-18-2004, 09:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by irseg
Sounds like it needs plug wires or an ignition coil/module to me, but having the actual code would make it easier to fully diagnose.
Probably code P0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire

Start with plugs and wires, if that doesn't solve it, then check for compression, then move up the ignition system, distributor, coil, ignition module.
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Old 05-18-2004, 10:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You said u needed to do research on the fuel filter, if the problem is the main fuel filter, u should find that mounted underneath the car, probably just ahead of the rear axle.

Like everyone else has said, it could be a number of things, when my 91 RS Camaro started doin what your talking about, I tried the fuel filter. Unfortunatly, it ended up being a new fuel pump was neeed. That sucked, had to drop the whole rear end and gas tank to get to it. Hoepfully u dont have to do the same.
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Old 05-19-2004, 04:54 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Okay, here is a breif history.

It has about 76 thou on it.

I took it in about two weeks ago for the same problem. The dealership replaced the fuel pressure regulator, but reminded me that I needed to replace the air and fuel filters. Then the problem came back up last night.

It started up fine, so I guess I will just keep driving it. Can't really call the dealership and tell them that they did a piss poor job, because they did actually replace something, and they could just tell me that this was a new problem. Don't know what to do other than just hope it runs.
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Old 05-19-2004, 09:11 AM   #13 (permalink)
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It could be a host of things, really. A bad plug, or plug wire are the most obvious. Replace those, as they are easy, and inexpensive. It could just be a one time thing, too, where the engine hiccupped, and it won't happen again.

When you say the did a tune-up, what, precisely, was replaced? I imagine plugs were, but what about wires? If they weren't I'd look there first.

I highly doubt that a coil or ignition control module would cause this, as it's only on one cylinder. I realize that it can happen, but I sure wouldn't start there. Good luck, keep us informed.

By the way rubyee, I drive the same car, only an Oldsmobile, but the running gear is the same.
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Old 05-25-2004, 05:23 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I figured I would post this question in the same thread, since I put my car information in here.

How can I change a spark plug- do I just pull it out and push the other one back in, or do I have to have special tools?
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Old 05-25-2004, 06:15 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Location: San Diego
the fornt 3 are easy, simply unplug the wires, put a socket over the plug and unscrew them out. becareful, the heads are aluminum and if the sparkplug does not want to come out, do not try and force it. if you do, you may get lucky and will only strip the threads, worst case senario is a cracked head. check the gap on the new plugs and put them in. general rule of thumb is hand tight and then 1/2 to 3/4 turns more. once again do not force them in. the rears get a bit more interesting. you can try to remove the rear coil pack (4 13mm bolts/nuts, two int he front, two in the back) and snake your hand and rachet down the backside to get them out. you can remove the two dogbones connecting the motor to the radiator support, then with a large prybar (or similarly strong peice of metal) pry the engine forward. if you get a peice of metal about 1/4" thick and about 4" long, drill two holes 2" apart in the middle that are he same diameter as the dogbone crossthrough bolts. if you remove the dogbones, and pullt he engine forward put this pecie of metal in place of one of the dog bones to hold it forward. then get to the plugs in the back. the only other way is the from the bottom backside by removing the subframe craddle bolts int he back only, and using a screwjack lower the engine to the point you can reach the sparkplugs.
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Old 05-25-2004, 06:26 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Yay! The one I need to get to is in the front.
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Old 06-02-2004, 09:31 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Well if it's just a spark plug your damn lucky. best of luck to yah.
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