02-14-2004, 05:33 PM | #1 (permalink) |
Tilted
Location: MI....GO BLUE!
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Engine Trouble
I have a 99 Olds Alero with a 2.4L V4 with about 75000 miles. I began to have engine problems earlier in the week when I discovered that my engine was sputtering. The problem grew and grew until the service engine soon light came on and I couldn't hardly accelarate. I went down to AutoZone and they found out that the #2 cyclinder wasn't firing. So I replaced the plugs. The car was back to normal...so I thought. After driving it for about 10 mins, the sputter started all over again. Right now it is hardly doing it and it is only noticable when I accel from stop or am upshifting while accelerating slowly. HELP
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02-14-2004, 07:17 PM | #2 (permalink) |
Deliberately unfocused
Location: Amazon.com and CDBaby
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Pull the plugs again. Is #2 burning as clean as the others? Possible compression problem. Bypass AutoZone and make an appointment with a good mechanic.
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"Regret can be a harder pill to swallow than failure .With failure you at least know you gave it a chance..." David Howard |
02-15-2004, 10:33 AM | #4 (permalink) |
Insane
Location: [insert witty play on location field here]
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If your plugs were replaced and its still doing it, I would check all ytoiur vacuum lines and sensors, especially around your air intake tubes.....I've seen a few instances where you would think it was a plug, but something was disconnected or loose in that area....
If everything seems good to you, yeah, find a decent mechanic. PS - your car is an INLINE 4, not a V4. If you said V4 to a mechanic, he probably laugh at you and try to take you for some extra money....just trying to help |
02-15-2004, 12:33 PM | #5 (permalink) |
Dumb all over...a little ugly on the side
Location: In the room where the giant fire puffer works, and the torture never stops.
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ten bucks says the catalytic convert is just about fully clogged up.
supporting symptoms: poor performance gradually increased; poor acceleration; check engine light on; will start and run ok cold, but poorly after 10 mins (ie just about the time the engine and therefore exhaust get hot); mileage on vehicle. if left uncorrected, eventually (probably soon) the vehicle wont even start. test to confirm diagnosis: disconnect exhaust manifold and start vehicle. let run at least 15 mins (long enough to get hot). now try to rev the engine. it if will rev up without trouble, you have just confirmed diagnosis. solutions: legal - replace catalytic converter; illegal (in most/all? states) - remove converter and punch out ceramic core material, then reinstall.
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He's the best, of course, of all the worst. Some wrong been done, he done it first. -fz I jus' want ta thank you...falettinme...be mice elf...agin... |
02-15-2004, 04:29 PM | #6 (permalink) |
Junkie
Location: San Diego, CA.
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I dont know that particular model, does it still have a distributor? I doubt it does, but if it did, those sound similar to a problem within the cap and rotor. You wont notice a miss nearly as bad at higher RPMs, or under a rich condition, such as a WOT or a quick accell.
I, personally, doubt the Cat is to blame. If its clogged enough to cause problems from mega-backpressure, then it would have an effect throughout the powerband wouldn't it? Especially at high rpms when its moving more exhaust. Also, if its clogged, chances are that its not doing its job at reducing emissions. In which case, the after-cat O2 sensor ought to notice the lack of HC reduction. Which, if bad enough, will throw a code, but it will be emissions related, instead of spark related. Without looking at the car, and doing some tests, its really hard to tell what is actually wrong. I would check compression, spark, and fuel first probably though. Just seems like over here, clogged converters really dont happen very often. Broken, or old dead ones are common, but we dont seem to find them clogged too much.
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Dont cry kid, It's not your fault you suck. |
02-15-2004, 04:54 PM | #7 (permalink) |
Crazy
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A catalytic convertor doesn't just "go bad" There has to be a reason (running rich).
Are your plugs fouling up? Sounds to me like a bad MAF or MAP sensor.
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So tired now of paying my dues I start out strong but then I always lose It's half the distance before you leave me behind It's such a waste of time |
02-15-2004, 05:17 PM | #8 (permalink) |
Go faster!
Location: Wisconsin
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Yeah, this isn't going to be a cat problem. If it's fouling up one cylinder, it's either fuel or ignition related. I still call a headgasket, what with the engine being GM's Quad-4. The check engine light shoule come on, though for a serious enough misfire. Either low compression is doing it, and the fuel mixture just isn't igniting, or you have a leaky fuel injector, and that cylinder is running rich. Check compression.
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Generally speaking, if you were to get what you really deserve, you might be unpleasantly surprised. |
02-15-2004, 07:08 PM | #9 (permalink) |
Crazy
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I would go with swithcing out the spark plug wire of a good cylinder and seeing if it switches to that one, might be the wires, if not when was the last time you changed the fuel filter, most often lack of power like this is caused from a clogged fuel filter that is going to eventually lead to a bad fuel pump. As DEI37 said its either ignition related, or fuel related. I would suggest the plug wires first and test it to see if the problem travels, if it does its the wires, if it stays, check the cap, rotor, distributor coil, and any other ignition sources you may have, having a diagnostics computer hooked up to it to tell you codes of what is wrong is also a big help. If you went through all the ignition, from the battery, all the way down through the spark plugs and EVERYTHING in between, then go to the fuel, start with fuel filter(s) depending on how many you have, some cars have 3 or more, most have at least 2 nowadays. After you make sure you have your fuel and ignition working good, then start to think about more serious engine problems. But one thing you should do as well before going to more serious problems is replace the o2 sensor(s) and other sensors, MAP, Knock, ect. This is if your doing it yourself, if you take it to a mechanic to do it (probably are if you went to autozone to ask for help) then they'll go through all that for you, and btw, I'm not positive on this, but pretty sure that the engine is a L4 not a V4.
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02-16-2004, 10:40 AM | #10 (permalink) |
Tilted
Location: MI....GO BLUE!
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Thank you everybody for the input. I have taken the car to the dealership and they said that it was just a boot connecting to the number 2 cyclinder that was causing the problem. I will be getting the car back soon and we will see if that is the problem.
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02-16-2004, 03:47 PM | #11 (permalink) |
Go faster!
Location: Wisconsin
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I can buy that being the problem. While Coil On Plug ignition is nice, the way GM set up the Quad-4's COP was a little goofy, and yes, if those boots come loose, you CAN have problems. Good luck.
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Generally speaking, if you were to get what you really deserve, you might be unpleasantly surprised. |
Tags |
engine, trouble |
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