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Old 02-01-2004, 05:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I think Im getting these speakers...

What do you think?

http://www.bossaudio.com/products/loud_ripper.htm

I think the front takes 5.25s, but Im not sure. The backs are 6x9's.

My friend had em in his car, and they sounded awesome. Then he sold it, but his friend can get us a real good deal on these.

What do you think?
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Old 02-01-2004, 08:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by krwlz

My friend had em in his car, and they sounded awesome.
I think you answered your own question right there.
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Old 02-01-2004, 09:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Holy shit they handle alot of power....whats the rms on those bad boys? pretty sure your gonna have to amp them. nice sensitivity rating on those....
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Old 02-01-2004, 09:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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they look solid... i like how the tweeter is unattached from the woofer.
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Old 02-02-2004, 06:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I probably wont amp them at first, for monatary sake. I can get a deal on em, but that doesnt mean its cheap.

They look pretty, and sound great. The sensativity is right on, and thats most what Im looking for. I think my friend told me 60 bucks for the pair for the front.

The Clarion deck I have will put out 50 watts, per speaker. That will be enough for now. Amplified to peak, I think I would go deaf!
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Old 02-02-2004, 06:38 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I would personally go with the components in the front, and the back is up for grabs whatever fits you best. Personally I can't say enough good things about components when wired correctly and you have a quality set
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Old 02-02-2004, 06:47 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Im new to car audio... Why is the components any better? Same friend who is going to get me the deal know how to wire everything, so he will probably help me out.
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Old 02-02-2004, 07:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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well its been my experience that components offer better clarity because it plits the high and the lows into two seperate speakers. thus the speakers are only playing the range they are best designed for. The thing about regular speakers is they play all levels of sound, so no sound range is as clear as it could be. With components the tweeter plays the highs, and the door speaker only plays the mid and the lows, thus offering more clarity with less distortion.
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Old 02-02-2004, 11:05 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Well they don't got any 12 or 15 inch subs

But they got some badass amps!
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Old 02-02-2004, 02:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Probably not going to get subs right off the bat. Im a classic rock fan, not extrememly bass heavy. Perhaps one day Ill get a pair of 8's. who knows?
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Old 02-02-2004, 03:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I've got 2 10's in my truck and they compliment the music when it's light on the bass, but when i want to pound they do the job.
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Old 02-02-2004, 08:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by krwlz
The Clarion deck I have will put out 50 watts, per speaker.
In its dreams. CEA 2006 (new standard) power rating for that bad boy is probably around 12-18 wpc.


Quote:
Originally posted by Confederate
well its been my experience that components offer better clarity because it plits the high and the lows into two seperate speakers. thus the speakers are only playing the range they are best designed for. The thing about regular speakers is they play all levels of sound, so no sound range is as clear as it could be. With components the tweeter plays the highs, and the door speaker only plays the mid and the lows, thus offering more clarity with less distortion.
This is true to a degree. Coaxial speakers also have two separate drivers, but they share the same "housing." The tweeter in a typical coax speaker is mounted on a pole piece in the middle of the woofer cone. I prefer components because the midbass is more solid in a component woofer than in a coax. This is for two reasons; one being that their isnt a large hole (costing precious surface area) in the middle of the woofer cone, and two, there isnt a pole piece affecting the imaging of the woofer.
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Old 02-03-2004, 05:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Well, according to the deck I have... which clearly states 50wattsx4

Is that 50 watts split by 4? I would think they wouldnt have tacked on the "x4" if thats what it maeant. Who knows.

Perhaps Im reading it wrong...
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Old 02-03-2004, 05:43 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Just looked it up online, it lists 200 watt (50wattx4)...
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Old 02-03-2004, 09:58 AM   #15 (permalink)
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If you hooked that deck up to ComEd... then maybe. The 50x4 power rating was the decks MAX power. Until this year, there was no set standard for power ratings to adhere to. The CEA 2006 standard has been implemented, and all manufacturers must now give the CEA 2006 (or real world) power rating for their products. An Alpine deck which has one of the strongest on board amps out there, puts out a MAX power of 50w x4, but a CEA 2006 power of only 18w x4.
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Old 02-03-2004, 10:23 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Where does it list this CEA2006 power rating?
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Old 02-03-2004, 11:07 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Confederate
I've got 2 10's in my truck and they compliment the music when it's light on the bass, but when i want to pound they do the job.
I got 2 10's also but I would like to get 2 12's or maybe even 3 12 inch's all in one box. Like the http://www.bossaudio.com/products/speakers.htm TBP-123(top right)
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Old 02-03-2004, 11:59 AM   #18 (permalink)
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you deck is probably about 25watts rms a channel then....which would be really low power for those speakers....remember it's better to over power a speaker than underpowering it.
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Old 02-03-2004, 01:45 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Location: College Station, TX
Quote:
Originally posted by Pain Train
I got 2 10's also but I would like to get 2 12's or maybe even 3 12 inch's all in one box. Like the http://www.bossaudio.com/products/speakers.htm TBP-123(top right)
These are mine in a box I built, it's always nice knowing I did something myself

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Old 02-03-2004, 06:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by krwlz
Where does it list this CEA2006 power rating?
Clarion might not have adopted the new standard yet, but they will eventually have to. Alpine has already.


Quote:
Originally posted by merkerguitars
you deck is probably about 25watts rms a channel then....
I'm not trying to come off as a "know it all" dick or anything, but I really don't think that its that high.
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Old 02-04-2004, 09:17 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Confederate
These are mine in a box I built, it's always nice knowing I did something myself

I didn't make my own box but looks cool

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Old 02-04-2004, 03:05 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pain Train
I didn't make my own box but looks cool

I understand that, I just have a single cab truck and finding boxes with enough volume is hard, and the ones that do are ungodly expensive, so I figured I have enough building know-how to make a decent box and I could make it to my exact needs. And thus there it is.
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Old 02-05-2004, 08:59 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Are yours Rockford Fosgates?
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Old 02-05-2004, 09:44 AM   #24 (permalink)
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As I understand, under powering it isnt all that big of a deal. But you definatly dont want to overpower, as the components arnt built to handle that much electricity...

Some explain why Merkerguitars is telling me underpower is bad...
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Old 02-05-2004, 10:20 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by krwlz
As I understand, under powering it isnt all that big of a deal. But you definatly dont want to overpower, as the components arnt built to handle that much electricity...

Some explain why Merkerguitars is telling me underpower is bad...
My subs are underpowered, that why my Amp gets really warm if its running for like 4 hours non-stop!


Over powering will just blow up your speakers/subs common sense!
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Old 02-05-2004, 10:35 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pain Train
Are yours Rockford Fosgates?
yup 2 RF 10's with a 150x2 RF amp, they are the basic rockfords not the HE's or anything
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Old 02-05-2004, 03:43 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Ok...here it goes...

When you underpower speakers you run into having you amp "clipping" or otherwise known as peaking out. When that happens and the amp clips it pretty much turns your voice coils on your speakers into heater coils. When you over power (the best is about 10-15 for components) your amp won't clip and all that it does is push the speakers more. I've messed up alot of speakers underpowering them...pretty much you'll burn them out...and yes by overpowering you can blow them...but at that volume you will start to get hearing losses. Alot of JL subs can be powered about 100 watts over and take the abuse quite nicely.
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Old 02-06-2004, 08:08 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by merkerguitars
Ok...here it goes...

When you underpower speakers you run into having you amp "clipping" or otherwise known as peaking out. When that happens and the amp clips it pretty much turns your voice coils on your speakers into heater coils. When you over power (the best is about 10-15 for components) your amp won't clip and all that it does is push the speakers more. I've messed up alot of speakers underpowering them...pretty much you'll burn them out...and yes by overpowering you can blow them...but at that volume you will start to get hearing losses. Alot of JL subs can be powered about 100 watts over and take the abuse quite nicely.
Humm maybe I should get a bigger amp and see what my JL's can really do..
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Old 02-06-2004, 05:35 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Gotcha... Well, maybe if I invest in speakers, perhaps a tad lower powered, and amped.

I just put my deck in, and it sounds quite nice on the stock speakers.
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Old 02-06-2004, 08:08 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by merkerguitars
and yes by overpowering you can blow them...but at that volume you will start to get hearing losses. Alot of JL subs can be powered about 100 watts over and take the abuse quite nicely.
Yeah, its far safer to overpower than to underpower. By overpowering, you are given a level of control that you don't have when underpowering. You have headroom on the amp, so the speakers never ask for too much power from the amp, and the amp doesn't clip.

On the subject of overpowering, here's what I've done or am doing:

Alpine Type R 5.25 components: rated at 45 watts or so, running them at about 65.
Alpine 12" Type R subs: rated at 300, running them at 600ish
JL XR653CS (6.5" woofer, 4.5" mid, 1" tweet): rated at 70 watts, ran them at 150
JL 12W7, rated at 750 watts, ran them at 1000
a friend of mine runs his 13W7 rated at 1000 watts at 2000 watts.

I've never blown anything up or even had reason to think I was close to doing so.
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