96 Ranger 4-cyl upgrade questions - Tilted Forum Project Discussion Community

rogner · 12-24-2003, 01:52 PM

I'm new to this board, but I have already learned a ton from what has been discussed here. Thanks for

all of the knowledge, and keep it coming!

Now, what I'm about to say might come as a suprise to some of you, but here goes.

I have a 1996 Ford

Ranger XLT Supercab, flare side. It has a 4 cyclinder, 2.3L engine, manual transmission, and is slow as hell. I love the truck, it is a great workhorse, gets fairly good mileage, and has done us proud on many occasions, especially for the price we paid.

What I'd like to do is make it a little faster for on road use. It has about 60,000 miles on it, and I plan to use it as a learning/tweaking car, perhaps keeping it for 150k+. I don't know if these have too much potential, but the engine looks as if it would be easy to work on, being a fairly simple 4cyl. I'd like to do some more of the *simple* upgrades, stuff I can do myself and learn on the job.

So, the questions now come out. I appreciate any advice anyone can give. I'm aware that this truck will never turn into a huge HP pumping monster, but I'd like to see if I can't safely increase the HP/low end accelleration by doing some simple, cheaper upgrades.

I'm working on getting a Haynes manual right now from a used bookstore/ebay/library, so I should be able to get vehicle schematics. I don't have a lot of automotive experience, but again, I'm looking to learn.

Automotive mast3rs:

Any suggestions for first things to do? Change plugs, intake, etc? Also, does anyone have any good websites for which I may learn about these items? I have already done google searches on all keywords I can find. Maybe what I'm looking for just doesnt exist... thanks!

DEI37 · 12-24-2003, 02:55 PM

For something like that, swapping out the 2.3 Liter 4-cylinder for a 302 V8 would be a good start. It's a common swap, and parts are available to do it. I'd imagine that any 302 Mustang motor would work, you just have to buy the mounts to make it all work. The Ford 302 has a good aftermarket, and you could end up making a 400+ HP truck.

rogner · 12-24-2003, 04:33 PM

That really does sound like a good idea, but its most definitely not a simple mod

How much would something like that cost, and in the mean time, any other ideas?

theguyondacouch · 12-24-2003, 08:15 PM

Go to rangerstation.com. all the info you need. Your best bet is to do a motor swap with a 4.0 v6. You can get all the parts from a wrecked truck.

rogner · 12-24-2003, 08:23 PM

www.therangerstation.com

edited to fix url

billege · 12-25-2003, 01:20 AM

Sure!

To make this more helpful, it'd sure be nice to know what year that truck is!
You've got 60k, so I guessed it's about 5 years old. All the searches I did apply to the 1999 models.

Here is a list of cheap upgrades that add small amounts of power.
I mean small. Hopefully they add up enough for you to feel it.

I attempted to make this list starting with cheesy-easy and going down to harder.

1. Make sure the engine is in tune.
Make sure the tires are inflated properly, etc.

2. Change the plugs.
Bosch Platinum Plus 4's are nice. So are Splitfires. Personally, I trust the Platinums. Your local auto parts store has them both. Get some nice plug wires too.

3. Buy a K&N air filter. That will improve airflow.

4. Make sure your fuel injectors are clean. Run a bottle of fuel system cleaner through. Cheap bottle of Chevron fuel cleaner with Techron should do it. Pour in gas tank, drive car. Done.

5. Have a low-backpressure exaust intalled. It won't be cheap, but hey, a nicely done high performance exaust has got to be worth 5-15hp.

6. Find a performance chip for your truck. For this WE MUST know the year. Often the use of a chip will require premium gas. Basically they advance the timing and play with the fuel delivery curve.

7. Look for a bigger throttle body. Install it.

8. Find a higher performance cylinder head. Install that. (You will not find one for that engine, let's move on...)

9. Lose some weight on the truck. Is the bed full of shit? Empty it. Look into buying fiberglass or carbon fiber body panels. Replace the hood. Strip all the soud deadening out of the truck. Throw out the stereo, AC, passenger seat. It's your call, and the sky's the limit...

10. Buy alloy wheels, that might shave 15lbs a wheel.

In short:
Make sure the engine, and truck, are in proper shape.
Now you're looking at plugs, an airfilter, maybe an air inake tube, and an exaust.
Then you're done with that engine.

Unless you're going to install NOS? That'll help...but NOS is not condusive to an engine living to 150k.

There is very, very little you can do. If you do the plugs, plug wires, air filter, exaust, and chip, I (realistically) see maybe, MAYBE 15-30hp.

There are plenty of people who are out to take advantage of people in your situation by promising 20-30% hp increases. "GET 25hp with our air filter!"
Yeah, that's all bullshit.
There's very little you can do with that engine. I found no chips for it, no heads, no headers, no high flow cats, no nothing. It's not the engine people choose to modify, so there's no market in making parts for it.

If I can possibly help more, please don't hesitate to PM me.

rogner · 12-25-2003, 07:37 AM

This was exactly what I am looking for. This parts list + a haynes manual, and I should be good to go

I realize this isn't a super moddable truck, its more of a 'I spent too much on my boat and need to skimp on what I'll use to pull it' vehicle. Nevertheless, its mine, and its damn slow.

Its a 1996 ranger, by the way. Thanks!

89transam · 12-25-2003, 01:11 PM

Ive heard bosch platinum 4's are a waste of money. They should last 4 times as long as a regular sparkplug, but they shroud the spark. Stick with 99 cent sparkplugs.

billege · 12-25-2003, 07:42 PM

I can't speak to the effectiveness of the plus 4's. BUT, I can tell you I have personally run a set of Bosch platinums in a minivan for 100,000 miles. When we did change them (because we decided 100k is ENOUGH), there was little to no electrode wear. Those damn things are durable.

rogner · 12-25-2003, 08:09 PM

This may be a stupid question, and perhaps someone can point me to some elementary material on this subject, but what is the difference between a Bosch +4 and a +2 (2$ difference at autozone). The splitfire 3 platinums are ~20 dollars for one plug -- that is a huge difference from the +4's, which are about 6 dollars each. What gives? (1996 4cyl ranger @ autozone.com...)

Sorry for the ignorance. Thanks for the help.

Snakebyt · 12-26-2003, 11:33 AM

i would start by trying to find a cold air intake for it with a K&N filter, then try to find a header for it, that should help some, there may be a computer chip that you can replace... these are all things to look into after you have made sure that plugs, wires, ect are in good shape

billege · 12-26-2003, 11:39 AM

A regular spark plug has one spark gap. The spark jumps from one electrode across the gap to the other. When you look at a spark plug, the end that goes in the engine, you see the "hook" on one end. That's the electrode. The inside space in the "hook" is where the spark happens.

For decades man was happy with that one spark that took place in the gap. (By the way, the stronger and hotter the spark, the better the gasoline explodes-thus more power. We could go into flame propigation and timing etc., but that's more reading you can do on your own.)

With the plus 4 plugs there are 4 of those "hooks" around a the central electrode. If you were looking straight on to the plug you'd see a "+" sign, but the middle would be empty.
The spark will jump accross the gap with the least resistance. So, having 4 electrodes gives the spark 4 possible paths to choose. Theoretically, since there is a "best" path for it, you get a better spark.

A plus 2 has two "hooks."

See here:

http://www.boschusa.com/AutoParts/Sp...PlatinumPlus4/

"Four ground electrodes provide multiple spark paths which allow the spark to travel the most efficient path and deliver a longer and more powerful spark than conventional single electrode spark plugs. This offers superior burn characteristics for ultimate engine performance."

The Splitfires do somthing similar. From what I've read, they use a split "hook" to make a wide, flattened out spark. Supposedly, this also achieves a hotter, longer spark than a regular plug. Thus, more power.

http://www.splitfire.com/triple.htm

"The patented SplitFire "V" design on the side electrode is instrumental in helping to improve combustion efficiency. Because the flame kernel is not blocked by the side electrode as in other spark plugs, it can travel upward through the "v" notch into the combustion chamber . . .

That's the SplitFire Performance "V" Advantage."

(While we're at it, I just read on the Splitfire website that they do not pre-gap thier plugs. That means YOU will need to adjust the gap in the plug. It's NOT hard, but do it right. It will be important to the proper running of your engine.)

Same ideas, different methods.

Not that I mind helping, or I wouldn't have found this for you...but, I'd like to mention that the web is a wonderful place to learn all this stuff. All of it was available for you to find using google. Though, I do understand that if you don't know the right questions to ask, you'll get nowhere.

Don't be afraid to google just what you want to find. I typed "bosch" and found the plus 4 info with three more left clicks.

"Splitfire" took two. It's all out there.

The huge price difference is becuase Splitfire is really proud of thier product, and charges more.

Sparkplugs, in a stock application such as yours, are NOT going to make a noticable difference (unless the engine is running really poorly and NEEDS new plugs just to run).
Best case, high performance plugs get you 1-3 hp. Yeah, spend your money wisely.

Once you start pumping in modified fuel charges, NOS, turbo or supercharging, etc. the ignition system WILL need to be up to the task. <i>There's</i> where plugs make an important difference.

This link,
http://www.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system2.htm

is pretty damn good at explaining spark plugs.

I wish more people used howstuffworks.com, it's incredibly detailed, and as far as I've read all of the info is correct. Great site, I HIGHLY recommend using it.

Luck.

merkerguitars · 12-26-2003, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DEI37
For something like that, swapping out the 2.3 Liter 4-cylinder for a 302 V8 would be a good start. It's a common swap, and parts are available to do it. I'd imagine that any 302 Mustang motor would work, you just have to buy the mounts to make it all work. The Ford 302 has a good aftermarket, and you could end up making a 400+ HP truck.

you just hit the nail on the head.....the easiest and greatest upgrade is drop a 302 in it...my dad's friend did it...not that hard if you buy the swap kits...plus it make an excellent sleeper

kipperoo3 · 12-26-2003, 09:22 PM

I have a 97 Ranger with the 2.3, slightly different engine than yours if I'm not mistaken; Mine has eight sparks. The only thing I've done to my truck is remove the air silencer from the stock intake. I just put a piece of PVC with two rubber boots in to replace it. It looks stock (painted the PVC) and it gives it a little more of a air-rush growl when you rev it up. Probably does little or nothing to the HP however. Someone told me that a 2.3 turbo from the lincoln turbo coupe would fit pretty well, but it's not something I was ever interested in.

rogner · 12-27-2003, 09:41 AM

Kipperoo3: I've got 8 sparks as well.

I read on ranger-station (thanks, theguyondacouch) about how to remove the air baffle in the intake. I was thinking about a new MAF sensor, a better filter, removal of the air baffle (replace with PVC) and some bosch platinum 4's.

Thatll give me experience with changing out plugs, messing with the intake, and a taste of the difficulty of squeezing HP from a budget I4.

billege: thanks for the help.

12-24-2003, 01:52 PM	#1 (permalink)
rogner Upright	96 Ranger 4-cyl upgrade questions I'm new to this board, but I have already learned a ton from what has been discussed here. Thanks for all of the knowledge, and keep it coming! Now, what I'm about to say might come as a suprise to some of you, but here goes. I have a 1996 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, flare side. It has a 4 cyclinder, 2.3L engine, manual transmission, and is slow as hell. I love the truck, it is a great workhorse, gets fairly good mileage, and has done us proud on many occasions, especially for the price we paid. What I'd like to do is make it a little faster for on road use. It has about 60,000 miles on it, and I plan to use it as a learning/tweaking car, perhaps keeping it for 150k+. I don't know if these have too much potential, but the engine looks as if it would be easy to work on, being a fairly simple 4cyl. I'd like to do some more of the simple upgrades, stuff I can do myself and learn on the job. So, the questions now come out. I appreciate any advice anyone can give. I'm aware that this truck will never turn into a huge HP pumping monster, but I'd like to see if I can't safely increase the HP/low end accelleration by doing some simple, cheaper upgrades. I'm working on getting a Haynes manual right now from a used bookstore/ebay/library, so I should be able to get vehicle schematics. I don't have a lot of automotive experience, but again, I'm looking to learn. Automotive mast3rs: Any suggestions for first things to do? Change plugs, intake, etc? Also, does anyone have any good websites for which I may learn about these items? I have already done google searches on all keywords I can find. Maybe what I'm looking for just doesnt exist... thanks!

12-24-2003, 02:55 PM	#2 (permalink)
DEI37 Go faster! Location: Wisconsin	For something like that, swapping out the 2.3 Liter 4-cylinder for a 302 V8 would be a good start. It's a common swap, and parts are available to do it. I'd imagine that any 302 Mustang motor would work, you just have to buy the mounts to make it all work. The Ford 302 has a good aftermarket, and you could end up making a 400+ HP truck. __________________ Generally speaking, if you were to get what you really deserve, you might be unpleasantly surprised.

12-24-2003, 08:15 PM	#4 (permalink)
theguyondacouch salmon? Location: Outside Providence	Go to rangerstation.com. all the info you need. Your best bet is to do a motor swap with a 4.0 v6. You can get all the parts from a wrecked truck. __________________ "Lick my frozen metal ass!"

12-24-2003, 08:23 PM	#5 (permalink)
rogner Upright	www.therangerstation.com edited to fix url Last edited by rogner; 12-27-2003 at 09:45 AM..

12-25-2003, 01:20 AM	#6 (permalink)
billege Watcher Location: Ohio	Sure! To make this more helpful, it'd sure be nice to know what year that truck is! You've got 60k, so I guessed it's about 5 years old. All the searches I did apply to the 1999 models. Here is a list of cheap upgrades that add small amounts of power. I mean small. Hopefully they add up enough for you to feel it. I attempted to make this list starting with cheesy-easy and going down to harder. 1. Make sure the engine is in tune. Make sure the tires are inflated properly, etc. 2. Change the plugs. Bosch Platinum Plus 4's are nice. So are Splitfires. Personally, I trust the Platinums. Your local auto parts store has them both. Get some nice plug wires too. 3. Buy a K&N air filter. That will improve airflow. 4. Make sure your fuel injectors are clean. Run a bottle of fuel system cleaner through. Cheap bottle of Chevron fuel cleaner with Techron should do it. Pour in gas tank, drive car. Done. 5. Have a low-backpressure exaust intalled. It won't be cheap, but hey, a nicely done high performance exaust has got to be worth 5-15hp. 6. Find a performance chip for your truck. For this WE MUST know the year. Often the use of a chip will require premium gas. Basically they advance the timing and play with the fuel delivery curve. 7. Look for a bigger throttle body. Install it. 8. Find a higher performance cylinder head. Install that. (You will not find one for that engine, let's move on...) 9. Lose some weight on the truck. Is the bed full of shit? Empty it. Look into buying fiberglass or carbon fiber body panels. Replace the hood. Strip all the soud deadening out of the truck. Throw out the stereo, AC, passenger seat. It's your call, and the sky's the limit... 10. Buy alloy wheels, that might shave 15lbs a wheel. In short: Make sure the engine, and truck, are in proper shape. Now you're looking at plugs, an airfilter, maybe an air inake tube, and an exaust. Then you're done with that engine. Unless you're going to install NOS? That'll help...but NOS is not condusive to an engine living to 150k. There is very, very little you can do. If you do the plugs, plug wires, air filter, exaust, and chip, I (realistically) see maybe, MAYBE 15-30hp. There are plenty of people who are out to take advantage of people in your situation by promising 20-30% hp increases. "GET 25hp with our air filter!" Yeah, that's all bullshit. There's very little you can do with that engine. I found no chips for it, no heads, no headers, no high flow cats, no nothing. It's not the engine people choose to modify, so there's no market in making parts for it. If I can possibly help more, please don't hesitate to PM me. __________________ I can sum up the clash of religion in one sentence: "My Invisible Friend is better than your Invisible Friend." Last edited by billege; 12-25-2003 at 01:45 AM..

12-24-2003, 04:33 PM	#3 (permalink)
rogner Upright	That really does sound like a good idea, but its most definitely not a simple mod How much would something like that cost, and in the mean time, any other ideas?

12-25-2003, 07:37 AM	#7 (permalink)
rogner Upright	This was exactly what I am looking for. This parts list + a haynes manual, and I should be good to go I realize this isn't a super moddable truck, its more of a 'I spent too much on my boat and need to skimp on what I'll use to pull it' vehicle. Nevertheless, its mine, and its damn slow. Its a 1996 ranger, by the way. Thanks!

12-25-2003, 01:11 PM	#8 (permalink)
89transam Psycho Location: Central California	Ive heard bosch platinum 4's are a waste of money. They should last 4 times as long as a regular sparkplug, but they shroud the spark. Stick with 99 cent sparkplugs. __________________ I'd rather be rich than stupid.

12-25-2003, 07:42 PM	#9 (permalink)
billege Watcher Location: Ohio	I can't speak to the effectiveness of the plus 4's. BUT, I can tell you I have personally run a set of Bosch platinums in a minivan for 100,000 miles. When we did change them (because we decided 100k is ENOUGH), there was little to no electrode wear. Those damn things are durable. __________________ I can sum up the clash of religion in one sentence: "My Invisible Friend is better than your Invisible Friend."

12-25-2003, 08:09 PM	#10 (permalink)
rogner Upright	This may be a stupid question, and perhaps someone can point me to some elementary material on this subject, but what is the difference between a Bosch +4 and a +2 (2$ difference at autozone). The splitfire 3 platinums are ~20 dollars for one plug -- that is a huge difference from the +4's, which are about 6 dollars each. What gives? (1996 4cyl ranger @ autozone.com...) Sorry for the ignorance. Thanks for the help.

12-26-2003, 11:33 AM	#11 (permalink)
Snakebyt Psycho Location: Lubbock Texas	i would start by trying to find a cold air intake for it with a K&N filter, then try to find a header for it, that should help some, there may be a computer chip that you can replace... these are all things to look into after you have made sure that plugs, wires, ect are in good shape

12-26-2003, 11:39 AM	#12 (permalink)
billege Watcher Location: Ohio	A regular spark plug has one spark gap. The spark jumps from one electrode across the gap to the other. When you look at a spark plug, the end that goes in the engine, you see the "hook" on one end. That's the electrode. The inside space in the "hook" is where the spark happens. For decades man was happy with that one spark that took place in the gap. (By the way, the stronger and hotter the spark, the better the gasoline explodes-thus more power. We could go into flame propigation and timing etc., but that's more reading you can do on your own.) With the plus 4 plugs there are 4 of those "hooks" around a the central electrode. If you were looking straight on to the plug you'd see a "+" sign, but the middle would be empty. The spark will jump accross the gap with the least resistance. So, having 4 electrodes gives the spark 4 possible paths to choose. Theoretically, since there is a "best" path for it, you get a better spark. A plus 2 has two "hooks." See here: http://www.boschusa.com/AutoParts/Sp...PlatinumPlus4/ "Four ground electrodes provide multiple spark paths which allow the spark to travel the most efficient path and deliver a longer and more powerful spark than conventional single electrode spark plugs. This offers superior burn characteristics for ultimate engine performance." The Splitfires do somthing similar. From what I've read, they use a split "hook" to make a wide, flattened out spark. Supposedly, this also achieves a hotter, longer spark than a regular plug. Thus, more power. http://www.splitfire.com/triple.htm "The patented SplitFire "V" design on the side electrode is instrumental in helping to improve combustion efficiency. Because the flame kernel is not blocked by the side electrode as in other spark plugs, it can travel upward through the "v" notch into the combustion chamber . . . That's the SplitFire Performance "V" Advantage." (While we're at it, I just read on the Splitfire website that they do not pre-gap thier plugs. That means YOU will need to adjust the gap in the plug. It's NOT hard, but do it right. It will be important to the proper running of your engine.) Same ideas, different methods. Not that I mind helping, or I wouldn't have found this for you...but, I'd like to mention that the web is a wonderful place to learn all this stuff. All of it was available for you to find using google. Though, I do understand that if you don't know the right questions to ask, you'll get nowhere. Don't be afraid to google just what you want to find. I typed "bosch" and found the plus 4 info with three more left clicks. "Splitfire" took two. It's all out there. The huge price difference is becuase Splitfire is really proud of thier product, and charges more. Sparkplugs, in a stock application such as yours, are NOT going to make a noticable difference (unless the engine is running really poorly and NEEDS new plugs just to run). Best case, high performance plugs get you 1-3 hp. Yeah, spend your money wisely. Once you start pumping in modified fuel charges, NOS, turbo or supercharging, etc. the ignition system WILL need to be up to the task. <i>There's</i> where plugs make an important difference. This link, http://www.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system2.htm is pretty damn good at explaining spark plugs. I wish more people used howstuffworks.com, it's incredibly detailed, and as far as I've read all of the info is correct. Great site, I HIGHLY recommend using it. Luck. __________________ I can sum up the clash of religion in one sentence: "My Invisible Friend is better than your Invisible Friend." Last edited by billege; 12-26-2003 at 11:46 AM..

12-26-2003, 09:22 PM	#14 (permalink)
kipperoo3 Crazy Location: Phoenix, AZ	I have a 97 Ranger with the 2.3, slightly different engine than yours if I'm not mistaken; Mine has eight sparks. The only thing I've done to my truck is remove the air silencer from the stock intake. I just put a piece of PVC with two rubber boots in to replace it. It looks stock (painted the PVC) and it gives it a little more of a air-rush growl when you rev it up. Probably does little or nothing to the HP however. Someone told me that a 2.3 turbo from the lincoln turbo coupe would fit pretty well, but it's not something I was ever interested in. __________________ -Later, you realize that you didn't have to reposition the possum to make it look like an accident.

12-27-2003, 09:41 AM	#15 (permalink)
rogner Upright	Kipperoo3: I've got 8 sparks as well. I read on ranger-station (thanks, theguyondacouch) about how to remove the air baffle in the intake. I was thinking about a new MAF sensor, a better filter, removal of the air baffle (replace with PVC) and some bosch platinum 4's. Thatll give me experience with changing out plugs, messing with the intake, and a taste of the difficulty of squeezing HP from a budget I4. billege: thanks for the help.