Conclamo Ludus

For those of us who don't change our own oil:

At the 20 min. Oil Change places, when they are trying to sell you all those engine cleaners and radiator flushes, etc. Are these things really necessary. If so, how often? It seems like every 3,000 miles they are trying to push all this stuff on me. How often do you use these products if you do change your own oil?

I'm not a big car guy, as far as maintenance goes. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

bigoldalphamale

skip all of that shit. the guys working at jiffy lube barely know how to change fucking oil. if they were remotely mechanically inclined, they wouldnt be working for $7 an hour changing oil. just do the math. if your car needs service, take it to the dealership. at least thier work in guarenteed and parts come with warranties. and finally, cars built after 1990 dont need to have thier radiators flushed every 3000 miles, or to have the battery water changed every time the oil is changed. these places make alot of their money on these useless services, particularly on the women folk. dont be that guy. tell them: "change my oil and leave the rest of the fucking car alone, i only had 20 minutes to spare for an oil change and that is why i picked your hurting shop in the first place...now change the fucking oil, and quit wasting my time!"

Conclamo Ludus

This was my assumption after falling for it a couple of times. Thanks for the advice. One of these days I'll learn to do it myself.

__________________
Lord, have mercy on my wicked soul
I wouldn't mistreat you baby, for my weight in gold.
-Son House, Death Letter Blues

Peryn

Yeah, get nothing but the oil at a quicky lube place. And learn to change your own oil, its really worth it. While the dealer does good work, and really knows your car, they cost an arm and a leg. There isn't much to an oil change, so you dont really hafta know much on your car. Just dont be afraid to get greasy. Again, i took our new car to the dealer a few times, but $60-80 every 3k can really add up. Buy the oil and filter when they are on sale, whether you need it or not. If you do, you will end up doing your own oil changes for about $10-15. Much cheaper than those other people, and you know exactly what your getting.

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Dont cry kid, It's not your fault you suck.

JStrider

after a quick google i found
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/how....howtotips.2.*

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-=JStrider=-

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DerBlitzkrieger

sometimes its worth it to have a place like jiffy lube change your oil. if its just a daily driver, and youre not really fixated on your car, or keeping it around for decades, etc etc. its probably better to just have someone else change it; and thats for one simple reason.

If you fuck up, and forget to put your drain plug back in, youre fucked.

If the quick lube place fucks up, and forgets to put your drain plug back in, you will get a new motor.

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300,000 Kilometers per second: It's not just a good idea. Its the law.

bad30th

Ok. I will preface this post by saying that I worked at Jiffy Lube for over 4 years. Second, that I am a quite capable mechanic. And third, that I no longer work there because my boss was an idiot.

First, here are the facts about Jiffy Lube:

1.) 99% of the employees there are completely retarded.

2.) I would never let them work on my own car.

3.) When properly performed, the extra services (coolant flushes, trans. services, differential services, etc.) are EXACTLY what the dealership does....sometimes better.

For example, Jiffy Lube has a fluid exchanger for Auto Transmissions called a T-Tech machine. It doesnt suck the fluid out, rather (while the vehicle is running) it uses the vehicles own trans fluid pump to cycle the old fluid out and the new fluid in simultaneously. This machine replaces 100% of the fluid. Trans, pan, torque converter, lines, radiator, EVERYTHING. I can explain more if someone is interested.... Anyway, many dealerships do not have this machine and will do whats called a Pan Drop...dropping the trans pan and just changing out the fluid in it, which is only 35% - 40% of the fluid.

4.) I know of at least a dozen people I worked with at Jiffy Lube who quit and went directly to work for dealerships (Nissan and Infiniti, Ford, Toyota and Lexus, Chevy...pretty much all except the high-end dealerships like Mercedes and BMW) working on your cars. These ex-JL dealership "mechanics" are the same people I would not let touch my car...

5.) Dealerships charge more for these services, even though they are EXACTLY the same, or like I said, sometimes worse.

You are paying for the peice of mind that a "qualified dealership mechanic" has changed your oil, which as I have already explained, is not always the case. The dealership oil changer is, more often than not, an ex-fast-lube employee.....just beware.

6.) Jiffy Lube makes its profits more on the oil change than the extra services.

We charged $28.99 for a conventional oil change. An oil filter of the same quality as the ones we used (crappy) from the store would cost you maybe $3.00. In bulk, they cost us maybe $0.50. The oil we used from the store might cost you $1.00 a quart (conventional). In bulk, cost us maybe $0.25 a quart.

So lets do the math for your average 5 qt. capacity vehicle ........

Your cost at store = 3.00 + [1.00 x 5] + a little work on your part = an $8.00 plus tax oil change.

Jiffy Lube's cost = 0.50 + [0.25 x 5] = $1.75 in parts + [.5 man hours x $7 an hour] = a $5.25 oil change.

Point is, if you can do the oil change yourself, DO IT.

If not, and you personally know of a good individual mechanic who happens to work at a Jiffy Lube, GO TO HIM for your oil changes and extra services. If not, for god sakes just go to a real mechanic.

HOLY LONG POST, BATMAN!!! ...sorry....

CS733t

Bad30th covered just about everything...but,

I think the best part of doing it yourself is you get to choose what brand/types of fluids/filters/etc to use. Most jiffy lube places use CRAP filters (for example: Fram) and dino oil.

I would suggest going fully synthetic with Mobil 1, and napa or mobil filters. Redline MTL or MT90 for tranny and Redline Shockproof for the differential fluid.

__________________
So tired now of paying my dues
I start out strong but then I always lose
It's half the distance before you leave me behind
It's such a waste of time

bad30th

Agreed...the JL filters were just basically re-packaged Fram filters...

I'd recommend Mobil 1 oil and a NAPA Gold oil filter (both are what I use)

DerBlitzkrieger

ive always been a big fan of just plain old Purolator filters or Deutche.

both have crimped on filter end caps, as opposed to the shit glue-on ones that Fram uses.

RaDiAn

I made a big mistake letting Wal Mart Auto Service Center change my oil. It was sad... the guy couldn't find the oil filter, no really!(maybe it was his first time?) 93 blazer some has the oil filter near the air filter box under the hood. I was at the window looking at him looking for the oil filter. Whoa i thought O no, he ended up asking someone else they looked for a little while too. Then they repalace the oil with the wrong wieght oil. It was written on the bill. Geeez!

Then a couple of weeks later I had a battery go just about dead. I check the alternator. So I decide to get a new one. Then just about the only place that can do that later in the afternoon on a Sunday is Wal-Mart . I go and look at the old battery notice cranking amps. I look it up on the comptuter in store same cranking amps. I get in line ...my turn Manger picks up the lesser of the cranking amp battery I told him that that was not the one called out or what is used in my vechicle. I get the OK.....OK......(he was looking alittle pissed at me) They replace new battery. On the way home the gauge is moving around more than normal,Iget home. I pop the hood check the terminals they are loose, so I tighten them and notice the battery was the wrong one that I mention to the manager. I went back and told them to rip it out now and replace it with the proper one. I mention to them that that the battery terminals had been loose to.

Next time I'll do it myself!! I have ever since!

Cycler

Get to know your own car. Changing the oil is easy, get a sealed battery next yours goes dead (costs a little more but never have to check the fluid). Check the antifreeze in the winter flush it every couple of years. Easy stuff. It works, I have had the same vehicle for 13 years and my dad bought it new in 1982 she has about 180000 miles on it and runs like a top.

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"I assure you we're open."

Conclamo Ludus

For those of you who change your own oil:

How often do you do it?
How often do you use any fuel injection cleaners, or those products you add to your gas tank?
Do you have any extra tips or helpful hints?

Thanks for your responses, you've all been very helpful.

__________________
Lord, have mercy on my wicked soul
I wouldn't mistreat you baby, for my weight in gold.
-Son House, Death Letter Blues

bad30th

LOL well when I was working at Jiffy Lube and got all the Mobil 1 I wanted for free, I would do it every 2500 miles.

Now that I have to pay for it, I do it every 3000 to 3200 miles. Many people will tell you that changing your oil at 3k is a scam and blahblahblah.....I see it as cheap insurance, and I bet my engine lasts longer

Fuel injection cleaners at about the same intervals....3000 to 3200 miles for me.

And as for tips/hints.....just jump right in and do it. Its really the easiest thing in the world. And if you get in a jam, call you local fast lube or your mechanic on the phone....chances are they will be able to help you out right over the phone.....I always did for people.

Cycler

I change mine every 3000/3500. Don't use fuel injector cleaner (I've got a carb). Change your air cleaner once a year as well. I know I should do it more often but it seems as if I do it once a year. Tire pressure, check it on a regular basis. It can save your life.

__________________
"I'm not even supposed to be here today."

"I assure you we're open."

DerBlitzkrieger

say what you want, but i tend to believe these guys: http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

__________________
300,000 Kilometers per second: It's not just a good idea. Its the law.

denim

It's really not hard. The main reason I don't do it myself has to do with disposing of the old oil. It's worth it to me to have THEM do that.

89transam

I dunno they added quite a bit of oil in that "test" If they had changes it every 6,000 miles they would be down like 2 quarts of oil, thats alot.

bad30th

ummm did you notice that after the 3000 mile mark, they were adding 1/2 quart almost every 1000 miles....on an almost brand new car!!!

Sorry but no thanks. I have had more people than I can count come into my shop with good running, good looking, 250,000 mile vehicles. When asked what they did to keep it so nice for so long, most common answer.....

"I just religiously change the oil every 3000 and give her a regular wash."

There is a reason the oil starts to consume at about the 3000 mile mark. I would bet my engine on it.

And seriously....how much does it really cost to do it every 3000-3200 miles? $4.00 for a good filter and $5.00 (conventional) to $20.00 (synthetic) for 5 quarts of oil?

How fucking cheap and lazy can you be? But I guess thats the world we live in....everyone always looking for a way to get out of work.....

shakran

I'll second the 3k mile oil change idea. you can either change it that often or deal with engine problems later.

DerBlitzkrieger

thanks for your input. ive run mobil1 since the first day ive owned my car, and never gone fewer than 6,000 miles before a change. ive done the same for all my cars, and NEVER had a drivetrain problem. seems to me like youre just throwing good money down the drain.

there isnt a rolleyes big enough.

__________________
300,000 Kilometers per second: It's not just a good idea. Its the law.

89transam

I have read changing synthetic before 4500 - 5000 is like pouring money down the drain, its just that much better than regular oil.

shakran

How long do you have your cars. My winter car has 350,000 miles on it. I seriously don't think it would have made it this far without proper maintenance, which includes timely oil changes. But hey, if you want to drive around with tiny shavings of metal attacking your delicate engine components, that's all you

Ashton

denim

That kinda thing is why Cali is so low on cash.

Pragma

You're able to take used motor oil to auto parts stores around this area and they'll dispose of it for you. I end up just storing old motor oil in empty antifreeze containers, milk cartons, etc., and then next time I go to the auto store (ie: to buy more oil) I just drop it off.

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Peryn

Well, they wont pick it up on the curb down here... Gotta take it to someplace like Napa or whatever.

Anyway, if you are using dino oils, then i dont care what the manufacturer or oil companies say...change it every 3k. There is absolutely no reason not too, and way too many reasons that you should. Now synthetic on the other hand....thats another story. Why run synthetic if you change your oil so often anyway? One of the larger benefits of synthetic is that you get a longer oil change interval. I dont have much first hand experience with the stuff, but the earliest i could see myself changing synth is every 5k. It is engineered to last forever. Its not designed to be changed every three. You might not even be getting the best lubrication and protection if you change it that often, since last i heard, synthetics hafta sort of "break in" anyway. The long and short of it.... dino oils = 3k religious changes, synthetic = 5k+...the exact timing doesn't matter all that much since it will go for much longer. Would probably be safe changing it every 10k or so even...

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Dont cry kid, It's not your fault you suck.

bad30th

DerBlitzkrieger:
Well I guess thats you opinion about me throwing my money down the drain. Like I said....I'd rather spend a little more now than a LOT more later.....but hey....its your engine not mine.
Here...how bout a triple rollseyes for ya---->

Peryn:
There is no break in for synthetics.

One reason I change mine every 3000-3200 is the oil filter is not designed for more than 3000 miles. If I'm going to change the filter, how much more work is it really to drop the oil too. Now I have clean oil. Clean oil is better working oil.

Another reason is this- All oils break down over time. Conventionals are almost completely broken down by about 3000 miles (hence the recommended 3000 mile oil change). Synthetics, however are not. They wont be broken down until around 5000 miles or so. But in either case, the lubricity and protection of the oil gradually decreases. By running synthetic and changing it early (at the filter's normal life), I am getting the maximum protection ALL the time. There is no period at the end of my oil change interval where I am damaging my engine. This is the point of synthetic oils. Yes, they do take longer to break down, but if you run them until they are broken down, you arent getting any extra benefit from them, except to extend your drain intervals. How cheap of you.... just kiddin