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I'm not a Ford fan by any stretch, but I AM a fan of the Fox body Mustang with a 302 and a 5-speed. Have fun with it, good luck, and don't settle for ANYTHING less than 450hp at the rear wheels.
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450 now thats some power
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Within a few weeks the engine is coming out and i'm gonna redo it from the ground up and start some body work it has a small hint of a bottom end knock it seems like :( but oh hell it gives me a chance to soup it up......Hopefully Friday I will make a small mpeg movie of it running to show you guys...and show you the goodies i'm buying for it.....a friend is trying to convince me to build the engine up and put a 250hp direct port nitrous set up on it..tempting......if you guys have any idea for mods i'm more than willing to listen to you plans....i like input! |
That looks like a fun project!
Ford really had the comfortable sporty car market nailed back in the 80s. Mustang GT/SVO, Lincoln Mark VII, Merkur XR4Ti, Thunderbird Turbo Coupe (I LOVE mine..fun to drive and the damn thing won't die!), Thuderbird SC, Taurus SHO, turbo Probe GT, and there's probably a few others. They kicked ass back then and are still highly competent by today's standards. Now Ford's down to the Lincoln LS (a total flop), and the Mustang, which is STILL built on a platform that dates to 1978. But hey, they have that power folding seat on their SUVs, isn't that what really matters? :rolleyes: |
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Change out the rear end to a 4:11 Ratio gears; better acceleration, which is the fun part to me.
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Well after working my ass off the engine and tranny are finally out of the car...now the fun comes.....tearing it down and building it up. It will be a whole different car after I'm finished....
http://www.oldweakandpathetic.com/me...ly/engine1.JPG http://www.oldweakandpathetic.com/me...ly/engine2.JPG |
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Yeah thats almost 20 years of rust for yah......it will meet mr high pressure steam cleaner this week :)
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So you going to rebuild it for preformance?
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Plans for the engine
Forged Pistons Bump the Compression Ratio up Get an older set of heads without emissions and rebuild them Forged rods bore it 10 over... Full MSD ignition... Maybe a forged crank 200hp shot of NOS (cheater competition kit) and many more upgrades...... |
NICE NOS:p
I hate the way the new heads have them emissions crap on them |
This weekend the engine will be fully dismantled..and then the coming week and engine rebuild kit will be ordered :) More pics are soon to come :)
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NICE!
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Here is a pic of it stripped......http://www.oldweakandpathetic.com/me.../Stripped3.jpg
I'm prepping it for a good steam cleaning. I took off the power steering pump but I broke a bracket :( but at least its easy to find at a junk yard or on ebay. I took off the clutch apart and holy shit is it worn down and the flywheel definately needs to resurfaced. The pilot bearing in the crankshaft also seems to be in the not so greatest condition. I also started to plug the tranny up so that can get clean too :) Hopefully by next week I get it torn apart fully so I can start getting pistons ordered so I can then finally get the cylinders overbored to probably .10 (I guess I need to have the pistons on hand so they can blueprint the engine) |
Started to disassemble it...heres some progress.....it's kinda scary...
Here is the engine on the stand http://www.oldweakandpathetic.com/me...mbly/stand.jpg Here's after I took the intake off...pretty clean under there since i'm the one who replace the intake http://www.oldweakandpathetic.com/me.../intakeoff.jpg Here's with the heads off...amazingly it the cylinders don't look that bad besides the surface rust from a little bit of water getting in there when being cleaned...... http://www.oldweakandpathetic.com/me...y/headsoff.jpg Here's the scary part...took the water pump off...underneath the back plate it looked and smelled like shit.....The water pump itself was clean...what must of happened is all the coolant was going behind the pump plate instead of in front of it.... http://www.oldweakandpathetic.com/me.../waterpump.jpg Here's the bottom end...actually doesn't look like any problems...but the oil pan had lots and lots of sludge in it...plus some coolant:mad: http://www.oldweakandpathetic.com/me.../bottomend.jpg |
w00t even more progress
Well here's some worn out conrod bearings...the cause of the knock :( http://www.oldweakandpathetic.com/me...ornbearing.jpg Here's my nicely worn crank....shot...which sucks :( http://www.oldweakandpathetic.com/me.../worncrank.jpg Here's what is done so far...all nicely stripped http://www.oldweakandpathetic.com/me...y/stripped.jpg |
That don't look like no horse, boy!
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If you can count the number of cylinders on one hand....it is NOT a race car.
-sigged |
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If you had coolant in the oil pan you got problems. |
Updates...12/14/03
getting the crank reground...they have to take alot off ot it but it will cheaper than buying a new crank. Hopefully getting a engine kit ordered soon and then I get that done then I can finally get the block punched over and started to assemble. For a camshaft I was thinking of getting and edelbrock performer rpm camshaft......lots of lift and duration plus a nice sounding idle :) |
I like your documentation, and this story. But I have a suggestion:
GEAR DRIVEN TIMING! |
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check yer block for cracks because there should not be coolant in the oil, could also be the intake gasket though too
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Ok this week the following will happen...
Block will get sent in to get magnafluxed and boiled A full rebuild kit will be ordered that consists of: Forged pistons--speed pro Chrome moly rings high volume oil pump--melling new bearings all aroung Felpro gaskets Forged I beam connecting rods Timing chain set. Then once I get the engine kit I can have the block bored and blueprinted and then balanced. |
Nice progress there man!!! If you don't mind me asking, what has all this (engine) cost you so far?
ledhead, nice to see somebody likes my quote :D (I'm a led head to by the way, man they rock lol) |
Prices so far.....
$200 for the car as it was in the first pics $130 to get a new title from the DMV Carb and Intake where around $330 for both... Crank Reground is $85 Block bored blueprinted balanced and magnafluxed $120 Each head to rebuild is $180 a piece (it will be more if my guides are shot i don't know yet) Engine kit is about $377 with the parts i have mentioned before Camshaft is about $250 that I want... |
Awesome progress, keep us posted, and good luck!
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Not too shabby. What are the specs on the cam? $2K for a car that isn't finished yet may seem like a lot, but when you consider it's gonna have a completely rebuilt (and not stock :D) engine, I'd say it's worth it.
Can't wait until I get there.lol |
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hope you show us the final product.
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Well got the crank back...holy shit they took alot of .030 off the mains and the rods...but the shop did a kick ass job of it...they also said they'll professionally balance the whole engine for cheap and now i have the money saved finally for my engine kit..but the damn place that i am ordering from hasn't been open....soon very soon
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Holly shit .030 thats a lot to shave off....you better get a good set of over sized bearings.
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Well got my engine kit ordered....I ordered everything I stated....I think I found my Camshaft I want...it's probably gonna be an Crane Powermax cam...here are the specs
VALVE SETTING: INTAKE .000 EXHAUST .000 ----> HOT LIFT: INTAKE @CAM 3027 @VALVE 484 ROCKER ARM RATIO EXHAUST @CAM 3200 @VALVE 512 1.6 ALL LIFTS ARE BASED ON ZERO LASH AND THEORETICAL ROCKER ARM RATIOS CAM TIMING OPENS CLOSES ADV DURATION @ .004 INTAKE 25 BTDC 67 ABDC 272 ° TAPPET LIFT EXHAUST 75 BBDC 29 ATDC 284 ° SPRING REQUIREMENTS TRIPLE DUAL OUTER INNER PART NUMBER 99833 LOADS: CLOSED 95 LBS @ 1.703 OR 1 45/64 OPEN 268 LBS @ 1.223 RECOMMENDED RPM RANGE WITH MATCHING COMPONENTS MINIMUM RPM 2000 MAXIMUM RPM 5000 VALVE FLOAT 6500 CAM TIMING OPENS CLOSES MAX LIFT DURATION @ .050 INTAKE 1 BTDC 35 ABDC 107 °ATDC 216 ° TAPPET LIFT EXHAUST 51 BBDC (3) BTDC 117 °BTDC 228 ° REMARKS: FIRING ORDER: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 I'm hoping for about 340hp and 360 ftlb's or torque |
Well crane is a good company my, buddy has one in his chevy 350.
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You wont come near that much hp without heads, besides the stock intake, they are the most restrictive part of the engine. You should go with trickflow/afr/or edelbrock heads, they are light being as they are aluminum. The e7 heads are heavy as hell and dont dissipate heat nearly as well. With H/C/I you are looking at MAX 350 at the wheels, take 15-20% for drivetrain loss and you'll get flywheel estimates. If you get a 200 shot of nos you'd be pushing the block to the max, most people say the block can hold 500-550 hp and anything more than that is a ticking time bomb. I have a 93 gt and its in the process of being upgraded like yours =) there are some great aftermarket parts for stangs/5.0s thats the beauty of the car. You'll be spanking camaros in know time, as it is you should be able to beat early IROCs. If you have any other questions, I'll see if I can help out, check out http://allfordmustangs.com and http://www.corral.net
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Thanks for the tips...I'm wondering my self if I port and flow the stock heads if that will help alot...I would easily buy some aftermarket heads if I had the money. Maybe someday I can put a turbo on it....
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nice i had an F150 with a 5.0 in it that i was going to use as a project but I couldnt afford it seeing as how I'm still in college, ah well maybe in the future. good luck with your project.
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Well got my engine kit ordered....even got a camshaft and remanufactured rods.....all for around $700 hopefully it comes this week so my block can get sent in :)
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Awesome project, man..
Keep us up-to-date :thumbsup: |
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