Where's my EGR valve?
 

My mom's 1993 Lincoln Town Car has been running really roughly lately, so I hooked up my diagnostic computer to the engine, and of the 6 persistant error codes I got, 5 indicated that it's running lean, and the 6th determined that the culprit is an EGR valve that won't open. I popped out a few plugs, and the contacts were all white, which means it's running hot, probably due to a lean fuel mixture.

I have the Haynes repair manual for the car, and seeing as it covers all models from '81 to '98, it didn't have a specific diagram for each model, it gave the wonderfully helpful information that teh EGR valve is most likely located next to the carburetor. My thought: Great, I'm supposed to ignore the fuel injectors and look for this thing next to the carburetor. I poked around near the manifold for a while, and found nothing matching the low-res, tiny, grainy picture that they so helpfully provided. It implies that the EGR valve has an exposed diaphragm that I ould push on to test it, but I only found one barely accessable part with a metal case.

So, where is the EGR valve, will I need to disassemble it (i.e. have my uncle/family car guy look at it,) and is it expensive to replace?

If the car is fuel injected...you do not have a carbuerator. You have a throttle body (it is into this that your air intake feeds...more later).

Your EGR valve (stands for exhaust gas recirculation) will take some of the by product produced by the engines combustion and reroute it back to the air intake. You should be able to reverse engineer it's location by following the tube from your intake back to the block. It is even possible that it is incorporated right into one of the caps on a valve cover. On fuel injected cars sometimes it right underneath the fuel rail...

They are very cheap (under ten bucks) and usually very easy to replace.

Hope this helps.

-bear

btw...what kind of engine does the town car have?

Hit a parts store and ask them to bring one out. Most good stores will either bring out the part or at least show you a pic of it. Then wander outside and hunt for it. It's easier once you know what it looks like.

This tube could also be coming directly out of the exhaust manifold instead of the block. It will probably be around 3/4" in diameter.

If you cant find it, post some pics of your engine if you can and maybe we can point it out or give you a better idea where to look.

Trace the vacuum lines.....you'll probably find it that way.

To make sure you have the right one before ya take it off....

When you think you have located it, turn the car on. While the engine is running, Move the diaphragm. This should cause the car to start to stall out. Probably best if ya stop before it dies though. As you push on the diaphragm, it will let too much recirculated air into teh engine and it wont have enough fresh air to brun properly. Make sure that the diaphragm will pop in and out relatively freely. Whenya take it off, you might want to take it apart if ya can, and try and free it up incase its plugged.

I know that much, I was being sarcastic becasue the manual was absolutely no help :)

Quote:

btw...what kind of engine does the town car have?

It's a 1993 4.6L. It's pretty nice, puts out about 320 HP and over 300 torque. When it's running properly, it can pull 4600 pounds from 0-60 in less than 8 seconds.



After doing some more research, it looks like I'll have to take off the manifold to get at it from the top, or the cat to get at it from the bottom. I'm going to have my uncle take a look at it, a friend of his has a lift in his garage, and it sounds like it's easier to get at from the bottom.

Hate to break it to you but the 1993 4.6 puts out 190hp/260tq. 0-60 in a Town Car is over 10 seconds. :p

Peryn and badflsh got it right, you're looking for a pipe going from one of the exhaust manifolds, to what looks like a little flying saucer (that's the EGR valve), and that attaches to the intake. It may have either a vacuum line or an electric actuator on it, I'm not sure which the 4.6 used. If it has the electric actuator/position sensor, those died fairly often. Either a clogged/broken valve or a bad actuator would set an EGR code.

Everything was going well until the very end of the message, where j8ear started confusing an EGR valve with a PCV valve.

The part you seek looks like this:(edited out. won't post)


Look for it bolted to the intake manifold. Standard Motor Products p/n EGV279 should cost between $50. & $60. USD.
I have 2 of them here at my store in Farmington, MI. :D

:thumbsup: try image again:
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SQAoA...33725210182843

Image still won't post. Try this:http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SQAoA6YUU9KusHZmuSfC7UmnuJ0s4eRwpfZxUjvfTR4PEYHp9Ma!xrrNYoSYT0Z0w8LXj66ddSku2Z3CqIviqK5rLapVuj6QjwngI8Q!Oosll!dVaPeFgw/EGV279%20(2).jpg?dc=4675433725210182843

Truth here. Diagnostic codes only point to the vehicle system that is sending the computer data that is out of the normal range.
The problem could be the EVP sensor, a vacuum leak, carbon in the valve or a bad diaphragm.

Don't spend any money until you're sure you will be solving the problem.

if this hotlink works, then the egr valve for your car looks like this

http://www.partsamerica.com/product_...-EK/EGV279.jpg

and should be relatively easy to spot. though it could be hidden by any one of a dozen emmissions related hoses and what not, it should be on the upper portion of the engine.


note: www.partsamerica.com has good quality pictures of most of the parts it carries, like your egr valve.

OK, now I have to remember who gave me that info and smack them in the head. I've definitely clocked the 0-60 at less than 8, though.


As for the original problem, I'm just too damn big to reach in far enough to find the thing. Thanks for the help everyone.