funny noise coming from front wheel - Tilted Forum Project Discussion Community

vermin · 08-07-2003, 03:29 PM

It's a high pitched kinda sound, similar to christmas-type reindeer bells, only a steady whine. I'm thinking it's either the brakes or the bearings or the U-joint. But what the hell do I know? It's a '97 Geo Metro 3 cyl. (55 brute horsepower) with about 51,000 miles on it. I'd like to try to fix it myself on accounta shorta cash.

If anyone has an idea of what it's likely to be, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.

shakran · 08-07-2003, 03:50 PM

It's the wear indicator on your brake pads. It's designed to start squealing before the pads are gone so you have time to replace them before the brakes fail. New brake pads will fix the problem.

This is a do-it-yourself job. It's not overly hard. Get the parts at NAPA, not at your dealership, to save money. Don't let them sell you carbon-kevlar pads like they always try to - - it's a Metro for chrissake, you don't need performance brakes

Moonduck · 08-07-2003, 08:49 PM

Try to fix this soon if it is the brakes. If you let it continue, you can easily core your braking surfaces. Metros don't have the strongest brakes in the world, and it won't take long to wear them to the point of needing to get them turned.

drawerfixer · 08-07-2003, 09:15 PM

Shoot... I bought the carbon-kevlar pads...

merkerguitars · 08-07-2003, 10:23 PM

Check the squealer dealies on the brakes...if it's not worn to those yet most likely it is a bad wheel bearing...you should be able to do that yourself easily.

shakran · 08-08-2003, 04:56 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by drawerfixer
Shoot... I bought the carbon-kevlar pads...

what kind of car? If it's faster than the Metro, then the performance brakes are never a bad idea.

drawerfixer · 08-08-2003, 02:25 PM

1993 Infinti J30

210 horsepower, and I drive pretty wild, so I guess it couldn't have been _that_ bad of a deal. Also, whoever had it last put on the carbon-kevlar pads, and my pops paid for these new ones, so I'm not overly concerned.

vermin · 08-08-2003, 03:19 PM

Thanks for the help. I'll check the brakes, but:

Wouldn't the brake wear pad thingys only squeal when you apply the brake? This squealing is nearly constant and seems to be affected by the position of the steering. And it seems worse now after an hour and a half ride on the interstate. That's why I suspected either bearings or U-joint.

mota · 08-08-2003, 03:31 PM

No, the "squealers" are made to be constant so that you will know something is wrong, not just when you break.

A u-joint will wear out quickly and will pop when you change gears, so I doubt if that's it. Maybe a bearing, but most likely the brake pads need replacing.

Sion · 08-08-2003, 04:06 PM

vermin, depending on how low the brakes are, then the squealer tab may or may not be in constant contact with the rotor. but, if the pads are worn down so far that the tab IS in constant contact, then you would have experienced a period of intermittent squealing whenever you applied the brakes.

I suspect the cv-joint (no u-joints on your car) because you said it is affect by steering. if I am correct, then DONT drive that car any more until the problem is fixed. if the cv joint shatters at highway speed, you could have a very serious accident. I had one lock up on me at 45 and it almost pulled the damn car off the road.

jack up the car, but dont loosen the lugnuts yet. gab the tire at the top and bottom and try to wiggle it. if there is any play, the bearing needs replacing. now put the car back down and loosen the lugnuts. jack it back up and pull the wheel in question off. inspect the brake pads, both inner and outer, just to be sure. then inspect cv drive shaft. look particularly at the area of the outer rubber boot. if it is torn at all, or if you notice grease on it (not oil, grease - its usually a blue green color, but not necessarily) then the boot at least needs replacement. have the shaft pulled and the boot taken off. a qualified mechanic can inspect the joint (once the grease is cleaned off) and decide if it needs replacing. judging from what you've said, I say it needs a new one.

now, this is work that can be done at home if you have the know-how and right tools. if you are going to attempt it, get a Chilton's or Haynes manual from a local auto parts store and read it carefully before attempting.

vermin · 08-08-2003, 04:27 PM

Thanks to all for the effort, but I just found out from the wife that the car will be looked at by a professional tomorrow morning, despite my attempt to save money by doing it myself. Probably for the best.

Just for the record, when I said U-joint I meant CV joint. I knew the part (what it looks like, what it does), I just got the name wrong.

Sion · 08-08-2003, 04:41 PM

ok vermin, we will take your word for it.

but just to be sure, what does the "CV" stand for?

(no fair looking it up either)

vermin · 08-09-2003, 09:52 AM

CV stands for constant velocity and it is a type of universal joint (so I was half right when I said U-joint).

Just got back from the garage, it was the brakes. the left one was worn to about 3/8" thk and the rotor was shot. $15 to turn the right rotor or $18 for a new one. So we got two new rotors on the front. I didn't remember to ask him about the rear brakes until we got home. Oh, well.

08-07-2003, 03:29 PM	#1 (permalink)
vermin Indifferent to anti-matter Location: Tucson, AZ	funny noise coming from front wheel It's a high pitched kinda sound, similar to christmas-type reindeer bells, only a steady whine. I'm thinking it's either the brakes or the bearings or the U-joint. But what the hell do I know? It's a '97 Geo Metro 3 cyl. (55 brute horsepower) with about 51,000 miles on it. I'd like to try to fix it myself on accounta shorta cash. If anyone has an idea of what it's likely to be, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks. __________________ If puns were sausages, this would be the wurst.

08-07-2003, 09:15 PM	#4 (permalink)
drawerfixer Stonerific Location: Colorado	Shoot... I bought the carbon-kevlar pads... __________________ They that can give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin

08-07-2003, 10:23 PM	#5 (permalink)
merkerguitars Buffering......... Location: Wisconsin...	Check the squealer dealies on the brakes...if it's not worn to those yet most likely it is a bad wheel bearing...you should be able to do that yourself easily. __________________ Donate now! Ask me How! Please use the search function it is your friend. Look at my mustang please feel free to comment! http://www.tfproject.org/tfp/showthread.php?t=26985

08-08-2003, 02:25 PM	#7 (permalink)
drawerfixer Stonerific Location: Colorado	1993 Infinti J30 210 horsepower, and I drive pretty wild, so I guess it couldn't have been _that_ bad of a deal. Also, whoever had it last put on the carbon-kevlar pads, and my pops paid for these new ones, so I'm not overly concerned. __________________ They that can give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin

08-08-2003, 03:19 PM	#8 (permalink)
vermin Indifferent to anti-matter Location: Tucson, AZ	Thanks for the help. I'll check the brakes, but: Wouldn't the brake wear pad thingys only squeal when you apply the brake? This squealing is nearly constant and seems to be affected by the position of the steering. And it seems worse now after an hour and a half ride on the interstate. That's why I suspected either bearings or U-joint. __________________ If puns were sausages, this would be the wurst.

08-07-2003, 03:50 PM	#2 (permalink)
shakran Tone.	It's the wear indicator on your brake pads. It's designed to start squealing before the pads are gone so you have time to replace them before the brakes fail. New brake pads will fix the problem. This is a do-it-yourself job. It's not overly hard. Get the parts at NAPA, not at your dealership, to save money. Don't let them sell you carbon-kevlar pads like they always try to - - it's a Metro for chrissake, you don't need performance brakes

08-07-2003, 08:49 PM	#3 (permalink)
Moonduck Junkie Location: SE USA	Try to fix this soon if it is the brakes. If you let it continue, you can easily core your braking surfaces. Metros don't have the strongest brakes in the world, and it won't take long to wear them to the point of needing to get them turned.

08-08-2003, 03:31 PM	#9 (permalink)
mota Upright Location: Texas	No, the "squealers" are made to be constant so that you will know something is wrong, not just when you break. A u-joint will wear out quickly and will pop when you change gears, so I doubt if that's it. Maybe a bearing, but most likely the brake pads need replacing.

08-08-2003, 04:06 PM	#10 (permalink)
Sion Dumb all over...a little ugly on the side Location: In the room where the giant fire puffer works, and the torture never stops.	vermin, depending on how low the brakes are, then the squealer tab may or may not be in constant contact with the rotor. but, if the pads are worn down so far that the tab IS in constant contact, then you would have experienced a period of intermittent squealing whenever you applied the brakes. I suspect the cv-joint (no u-joints on your car) because you said it is affect by steering. if I am correct, then DONT drive that car any more until the problem is fixed. if the cv joint shatters at highway speed, you could have a very serious accident. I had one lock up on me at 45 and it almost pulled the damn car off the road. jack up the car, but dont loosen the lugnuts yet. gab the tire at the top and bottom and try to wiggle it. if there is any play, the bearing needs replacing. now put the car back down and loosen the lugnuts. jack it back up and pull the wheel in question off. inspect the brake pads, both inner and outer, just to be sure. then inspect cv drive shaft. look particularly at the area of the outer rubber boot. if it is torn at all, or if you notice grease on it (not oil, grease - its usually a blue green color, but not necessarily) then the boot at least needs replacement. have the shaft pulled and the boot taken off. a qualified mechanic can inspect the joint (once the grease is cleaned off) and decide if it needs replacing. judging from what you've said, I say it needs a new one. now, this is work that can be done at home if you have the know-how and right tools. if you are going to attempt it, get a Chilton's or Haynes manual from a local auto parts store and read it carefully before attempting. __________________ He's the best, of course, of all the worst. Some wrong been done, he done it first. -fz I jus' want ta thank you...falettinme...be mice elf...agin...

08-08-2003, 04:27 PM	#11 (permalink)
vermin Indifferent to anti-matter Location: Tucson, AZ	Thanks to all for the effort, but I just found out from the wife that the car will be looked at by a professional tomorrow morning, despite my attempt to save money by doing it myself. Probably for the best. Just for the record, when I said U-joint I meant CV joint. I knew the part (what it looks like, what it does), I just got the name wrong. __________________ If puns were sausages, this would be the wurst.

08-08-2003, 04:41 PM	#12 (permalink)
Sion Dumb all over...a little ugly on the side Location: In the room where the giant fire puffer works, and the torture never stops.	ok vermin, we will take your word for it. but just to be sure, what does the "CV" stand for? (no fair looking it up either) __________________ He's the best, of course, of all the worst. Some wrong been done, he done it first. -fz I jus' want ta thank you...falettinme...be mice elf...agin...

08-09-2003, 09:52 AM	#13 (permalink)
vermin Indifferent to anti-matter Location: Tucson, AZ	CV stands for constant velocity and it is a type of universal joint (so I was half right when I said U-joint). Just got back from the garage, it was the brakes. the left one was worn to about 3/8" thk and the rotor was shot. $15 to turn the right rotor or $18 for a new one. So we got two new rotors on the front. I didn't remember to ask him about the rear brakes until we got home. Oh, well. __________________ If puns were sausages, this would be the wurst.