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Rubber Fuel Lines Vs. Braided Steel
how safe is running rubber hosing from the existing end of the fuel line(where the carb hooked up) to the carb(i have another end thing thats cut off) and clamping it
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as you can tell i have no idea what the fuck i am doing...but my quadrajet(bah) took a shit and i have 2 holleys, that i THINK work, but the fuel inlet is on the oposite side than the Qjet, and all i have is stock hard lines that are too short, how difficult is it to run braided lines from pump to carb or wherever?
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- Formerly know as @nthrax, if ashton or anyone that remembers my trails with my truck views this...
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If you have it laying on the hot intake, go with the ss braid,better to be safe than sorry. If you go with the rubber make sure its fuel rated gas line which should be thick will take some abuse.
One of the cars I've had in the past had a weird arrangement where@ the fuel tank it had steel lines and then rubber lines back to steel line. This was at an area I guess that it need to be flexable. I had to replace the existing rubber lines they had. Rubber startedto break down started as a small fuel leak. My 2 cents worth.......... |
What the...
Nevermind. I use Kevlar. |
You ought to be able to cut the hardline above the intake and run a piece of 3/8" rubber fuel line from the end of the hardline to the new Holley.
Just make sure the Holley will fit, Q-Jets may be crappy, but rebuilding one or finding a new one should be a piece of cake. |
I have the same setup on my truck..... Just get a fitting from the autoparts store called a nipple... it will screw into the fuel pump and all you have to do is clamp the hose... take the old fitting with you so you get the right thread size.... as to the hose, just use regular rubber fuel line.... route it from the carb right to left with enough slack to keep away from the engine and either make a bracket to hold it in place or do what I did and use some bailing wire.... Mines been that way for two years without a problem.
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Didn't you get a Edelbrock intake with that set of heads you bought?.... the Holley will fit on that but if the intake is a stocker you will have to get a adapter...
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They are not a pain in the ass. Read a book. Learn a little. Q Jets are no harder than Holleys and the kits will run within a few dollars of eachother.
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I have ran rubber line before...it works perfectly fine.....and i'll agree with ashton...rebuilt quadrajunks are a pain in the ass. And squarebore carb is almost always easier than a spread bore.
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whats the difference between spread and square?
Intake: Edelbrock Proformer RPM (the $129 one) Heads:Cast iron, and look exactly liek what i took off, other than that i have no idea(port sizes and shit) my truck is a 73 chevy stepside w/ utility fenders www.urbandev.net/truck (really shitty pics) The whole story... i was working on getting my valves set right and got fed up with that, so i decided i was going to put my new mufflers on (flowmaster 40's) and i left my hood off for 2 nights in the fog...not a smart idea, but the fog would have just gotten in underneath anyway... so i got my old mufflers off (lots of delicate griding and hammer action) and slid my flows on and tightened them down and shit, rehung it and bolted it to the manifolds, went to start it and it wouldnt start...went to bed next day i unhooked my fuel line from the carb to see if it was the pump, put bucket under the line and turned it over a couple times, gas came out, so i hooked my carb back up and tried again after replacing the ilter and all that type shit, nothing still, its not spraying at all, so the guy i sold my falcon to gave my 2 holley carbs that are kinda old but he said they worked great, but my hard lines dont reach...so here i am |
Yeah..... the floats are stuck on the Quadrajunk.... screw that POS carb, mount one of those Holleys.... don't listen to MM... you'll end up pulling your hair out and cursing him after you get that thing apart, looking at all the parts and saying......
http://ashtonxxx.smugmug.com/photos/...865-Medium.jpg |
And MM...... before you get your panties in a knot I'll admit I was thinking about the POS carter carbs in my 59 Criss Craft..... they were the carbs with four floats, but he wants to get his truck running.... not become a master of the Quadrajunk, I just want to help him get the truck running..... and without being there all I can do is give him the advice that a novice can understand, Reading some line like "go for it, you can do it!" sounds great until you try and there's no one to help you when you get stuck.... then you get pissed off and give up, Mounting a good Holley and having the truck run will be much better than fucking up tying to rebuild a Quadrajunk and having it not work after you're done.....
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Oh.... one more thing Urbandev, If the Quadrajunk fit on that Edelbrock without a adapter it is made for Quadrajunks... all you have to do is buy a $20 adapter to fit the Holley.
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Its ok Ashton, no panties bunching here. I was not trying to insult you, merely point out that the Q-Jet wasn't as bad as adjusting 4 floats. Is rebuilding a Q-Jet fun? No way, I hate them. My car has a 3310 on it. But, learning to rebuild and tune a Q-Jet makes the switch to a Holley just that much more fun. After learning to dial in a Q-Jet tuning a Holley is easy work. Lots of people think Q-Jets are worthless. Did you know that Q-Jets actually out torque Holleys? A Q-Jet flows a lot, the smallest are 750cfm. A Q-Jet can teach you things. I can't imagine not wanting to learn. I just can't. *shrug* To each their own.
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http://www.urbandev.net/truck/3.JPG
is my engine supose to be lower in the back? |
http://www.urbandev.net/truck/11.JPG
The culprit. |
like my fuckin brand new cast iron theristat housing i forgot to do something with...rusted the hell out of it
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another question...
the quadrajet has a port in the back of it for the brakes, te holleys do not, wtf shoul di do about this? |
seeing as brakes are generally good to have...heh
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The Holley should have a port on the side.... take a pic of it so I can tell which model Holley it is. This one is a 650 cfm
http://ashtonxxx.smugmug.com/photos/...221-Medium.jpg |
Teh front.........
http://ashtonxxx.smugmug.com/photos/...217-Medium.jpg Teh fuel line.... http://ashtonxxx.smugmug.com/photos/...219-Medium.jpg Oh, and before anybody asks why I painted a Chevy motor green...... One, I had a case of John Deer tractor paint, And two, I call my truck 'Godzilla' because it's big, green, and ugly.... I only use it to haul stuff around and pull my boat. It's a old Goverment truck.... :rolleyes: :D |
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there is 2 of them, the otherone is in better looking condition, but its ass cold outside and dark so i didnt feel like getting it off my truck
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The carb In the pic was build for a ford...... it will work on a chevy but you need the throttle linkage stuff to hook it up to a chevy..... take a pic of the other carb.......
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Another thing..... looking pretty on the outside means nothing to a carb, what matters is if the carb sat dry or with gas inside..... gas turns to a nasty varnish if left inside for a long time, and that varnish really gums up the works.... A carb with dried up gas inside is pretty much screwed unless you take it all apart and clean out EVERY nook and cranny....and I mean EVERY little nook and cranny..... so hopefully the carb was ran dry before it was taken off......
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Ill take some pics of the other one tommorow when ever i wake up, what is your truck ashton?
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It's a 1972 Chevy 1/2 ton.... with the 6 foot stepside bed, it's a beast.... Goverment green, heavy duty everything, It's totally ugly but I rebuilt the engine (350), the tranny (Turbo400), the rearend (Positraction) and rewired the charging system... added dual exhaust with flowmasters..... It's a 'sleeper', it looks like a piece of shit but can haul ass.... I don't drive it much except to haul crap around like my dirt bikes and pull my boat, All my friends love "Godzilla"... especially when they need someone to help them move or take stuff to the dump.... or pull out tree stumps!:D
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Edited: "Bitchtits" had one to many Martini's :rolleyes:
http://ashtonxxx.smugmug.com/photos/...288-Medium.jpg Oh Shit, I better calm down Godzilla... he don't like it when someone calls me Bitchtits....:eek: |
calm down there bitchtits, its been raining like hell and im waiting to get a pic of carb #2, but im thinking about just getting one of the refurbed edelbrock 650's out of summit for $189 (polished, machanical choke) i have $250 to spend...
www.urbandev.net |
shoul di just get the refurb'ed one from summit? (at least i'll know it will work for a while)
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Yes
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i got another used QJet from my cousin...put it on and my coil is coroded as fuck...along with my battery...so now i need a coil, battery, and carb :|
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battery seems to hold...so i ordered a new coil and to to distributer wire from summit...the carb smells of gas after cranking...good :), so my stupid impatient ass is going to clean it out before i actully run it, where do i start this process?
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First: Get this book - http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...165153-1168125
Then, using that book, rip into the carb. It shouldn't require anything else special. Purely out of curiosity though, which Q Jet do you actually have? There are about 20 different combos when you factor in all of the chokes/pulloff styles/flow ratings/computer controlled. Just one thing though.......it sounds like this carb is OK. Why take it apart? |
not taking it apart, cleaning all the 'funk' off of it
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Oh ok. Sorry, when you said "clean it out," I thought you where going to clean the bowl. :P
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it has crap on it, ie the valves and stuff...black crap, should i just wipe it down with carb and choke cleaner?
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Just give the carb a good soaking with carb cleaner and hit it with compressed air..... the black crap isn't going to hurt anything but you can soak a rag with carb clean and wipe it off if you want, the main thing is to use a new carb to intake gasket, and to tighten the bolts evenly.... just a little intake leak will make your engine run like crap......
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that is if i can get the fucker to run at all...
i got a new coil & wire, put them on, nothing...any more ideas? |
im really tempted to drive it into the river and be done with it :|
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*push* it into the river
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Hard to just guess, 1. getting spark? 2. getting power to coil? 3. wires on coil reversed? 4. points dirty or not set right? my truck had a points distributor but I chucked it and put a HEI distributor in, hotter spark and no crappy points to deal with.
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mine is HEI :)...and i found my problem...corroded plug wires(on the plug end)...so whenever it stops raining...im going to attempt to clean then up a bit with WD40 and shit...not having a garage is really gay.
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there are 3 wires going to my coil, one comes from the distributer, the other 2 from who knows where, somewhere toward the rear of the eingine...the one that comes from the dist is positive, right?
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Ummmm....well. What is actually in that distributor? That is a points distributor body. Look at Ashton's truck pics, he has an HEI.
If it is still points in the distributor you have, that wire, is negative. The single wire from the points runs to the coil's neagative terminal. |
HEI distributor's have the coil in the cap..... Chevy didn't start using HEI until 1975, your distributor is a points distributor.... the points should be set at .019 On the coil there is a +, the hot wire goes there.... the wire from the distributor goes to the - ...... the third wire is probally a tach wire if it comes off the - post
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Another thing, corroded plug ends won't stop the spark..... the engine may miss a little but it wouldn't stop it from running.
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it doesnt have points, i dont know wtf it is but it doesnt have points
and i replaced the coil wire, and the fucked up plug wires and it tried to fire...but didnt |
and my coil doesnt have a post, tis' female
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Hmmmm, well.... either you're out of time, or you're not getting gas.... You might have fouled the plugs, pull them out and check them. You could try shooting some starter fluid in the carb.... if it starts and runs for a second then dies you're not getting any gas.
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got some gas, but also have dead battery, so im "borrowing" my moms boyfriends battery out of his disabled truck, replaced the corroded wires and all that, cleaned a couple dirty plugs, will try again tommorow...
Coil wires: wire #1 comes from the front of the dist. wire #2 comes out of a bundle of wires leading to the dist. from who knows where(red/orange/blown looking) wire #3 seems to come from the base of the coil bracket |
Well, usually the #1 wire would go to the - post on the coil...... The #2 wire I would guess is the + wire from the ignition switch..... #3 confuses me, is it grounded to the coil bracket? where does it go after the coil bracket? just the fact that your points type distributor has a replacment electronic ignition confuses me.... I always chuck points type distributors and replace them with HEI distributors.... you said you replaced the coil, did you buy a stock coil or the coil for the electronic ignition?
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i bought a coil that looks exactly like what was on it.
you think the way he had my truck set up is wierd, you should se the way he put our house together...(same guy we got the house from sold me the truck) |
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You're going to have to take a pic of the distributor with the cap off, I need to see whats inside it...... it's either a old T1 (which I doubt) or it just has a aftermarket electronic ignition kit installed, the wire in your pic looks like its going to a condenser? or is that just part of the bracket? condensers are inside the distributor when you have points.... electronic ignition dosen't need a condenser, the old T1's had a resistence wire going from the - post on the coil to ground..... It's way too confusing to just guess at...... try to find the model # of the distributor, and the name? # off the electronic part inside. I have a feeling that the coil you bought isn't the right one, what happened to the old one? you had the engine running before..... coils usually don't just go bad unless they get cracked or a wire inside breaks. :confused:
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the old one turned green inside and spewed some goo
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it was running ok until i left the hood off one night in dense fog...then it wouldnt start, the carb wasnt getting any gas, so i took out the filter and made sure it wasnt clogged, wasnt, unhooked the gas lines and put it in a bowl and cranked it, bowl filled with gas, so its not the pump...got another Qjet from my cousin(looks exactly the same, but works)...it gets wet and smells of gas, but no spark for some reason, so i pulled the dist. to coil wire off and looked into the coil and noticed that it was all green and fucked up looking. and the wire was all fucked up and broke when i took it off because it was brittle, so i bought a new coil and wire(wire kit...very gay),so i 'built' the wire, put the coil on, hooked it all up and it glugged once and stops showing any signs of life, so ilooked at my plug wires and noticed that they were rusted as hell, so i said fuck it and got a new set(voiding the coil wire i bought...), so i replaced said wires and tried again, nothing, by this time my battery is about 1/3 charged...so i got a couple gallons of gas and tried again, 3 chugs and no life...after that, nothing...
Stupid question: how can i test to see if im getting any spark? My battery is now dead...but im stealing my moms boyfriends while he's at work(his truck doesnt move anyway, dead tranny)... i can probably get some pictures tommorow when he gets home, depending on if he wants to be a dickface |
Thank you Ashton and mighty mouse for all your help.
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You can check for spark by removing a plug, (do this at night, preferably, or in a darkened garage.) Using a pair of -insulated- pliers, stick the plug into the plug wire. (The plug needs to be out of the head.) Have someone crank the engine over, and hold the plug electrode 1/8th" from the exhaust manifold or the negative post on the battery. If you see a spark, you have spark.
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You must not be getting any spark if you're getting gas and the engine won't hit on at least one cylinder, I suppose the timing could be way off but you said it was running before.... even if you got the firing order wrong it would at least backfire, either the coil you bought is the wrong one or you have the wires hooked up wrong.
If I was you I'd just go down to the wrecking yard and buy a old HEI distributor..... it will drop right in and all you have to do is hook up one hot wire and plug in the spark plug wires. |
Another thing, when you say you're getting gas... are you sure you're not getting too much gas? If the float in the carb is stuck in the down position or it has a hole in it and is full of gas so that it can't float the carb will dump way too much gas in the engine and flood it..... I totally flooded engine will crank and crank and never start, just as if it had no spark.
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im going to try hokking the coil up again, in a differant order and shit, and ill take pics of the distributer, then ill be back :x
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http://urbandev.net/Picture 014.jpg
coil bracket and... (resistor?) http://urbandev.net/Picture 015.jpg again http://urbandev.net/Picture 016.jpg wire #3 was coming out of the top of this thing...until it broke off :( http://urbandev.net/Picture 017.jpg Bottom: 1852715 DR 3MF http://urbandev.net/Picture 018.jpg W 312? |
That's a condenser...... If your distributor dosen't have points you don't need a condenser.
Do you have a volt meter? if you do, turn on the ignition and test for power from the wire coming out of the harness... the wire with power goes to the positive post on the coil, the other wire goes from the negitive post on the coil to the distributor, hopefully you didn't toast the electronic ignition..... if you did, junk that distributor and buy a HEI. Just one wire to hook up and ten times better than that old converted dist. |
how much are they?
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im thinking about getting a 1k student loan and using that to get this running, seeing as everything will sequencially take a shit on me anyway :|
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About $50..... give or take a few bucks, try to find one of those 'pull it yourself' wrecking yards.... they're always the cheapest, remember to get the power wire connector... just cut it off with enough slack to crimp it onto your trucks power wire.
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this engine is 80% original, everythign except heads, intake, cap, rotor, and valve covers, well and plugs and wires...and battery, eberything else is 30 yrs old...
what should i replace? and no, i havent gotten it running again :|m im going to go looks for a use HEI distribiter tommorow, and hopefully i dont fuck up the timing too bad putting it in :| |
I would say waterpump, but unless it's been sitting for a long time it's probally been replaced...... and the radiator will more than likely either need to be pulled out and rodded or replaced, it's highly unlikely that the previous owner flushed it from time to time or kept it full of antifreeze. That in itself is a problem.... the original freeze plugs in the block are steel, they like to rust out.... check them, two in the front.... three on each side of the block..... there's two in between the engine and the tranny too but you can't check them, you have to pull the tranny to replace them.
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i might be moving in with my aunt for the summer, so i will be bringing my truck with me on a trailor, and tearing the wntire engine apart and seeing what needs to be replace, but ill have my cousins to help me this time :)
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IT'S ALIVE!
and i feel like an idiot... I was forgetting to prime the carb...:o and that condensor seems to have not done anything. but my timing is either WAY off, or i have crossed wires, because its hickuping :x (it shot a nice sized fireball out of the carb too :x) |
braided lines are intended to protect the rubber core from factors such as abrasion, heat etc. as well as adding good looks.
i've found that it also helps keep the fuel cool which is a bonus in the area of performance... i.e. cool cans used to keep the fuel condensed |
good to know
ashton, can you find that firing order diagram again? i looked all over in the book i have and it's nowhere, and yahoo had like 9 differant firing orders come up, and seeing as you have the same engine as me, it should be the same |
my battery was dead...so i was using my moms boyfriends...
so i got it running...went to back up with my wheels turned, forgeting my battery was on the ground next to my truck, i peeled the top off on the corner of my battery :| |
LOL! I did the same thing to my battery charger once, I disconected it and backed down the driveway for a test run... then came back and forgot about the charger, went a little too far up the driveway and crunch! funny thing is I took it apart and banged the case flat, rebent the corners, put it back together and it works as good as new :D
The firing order is...... 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 clockwise on the distributor..... :) |
thanks ashton.
Anyone know of a place that sells cheap batteries?
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Cheap batteries suck big time, unless you have a wimpy four cylinder , a V8 needs a fat battery..... you need cold cranking amp's to start a V8..... especially if it needs to be cranked a few times to start, once you get your engine tuned all it will take is a step on the pedel and a short crank and it will start..... until then you need a good battery.
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i meant cheap like on sale;)
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and how do i do a cold set and hot set on my valves?
because last time i only set them once |
Setting valves on a Chevy is both easy and tricky depending on how you do it...... My trick is a old set of valve covers, I have a slot cut in the top of each one so I can adjust the valves while the engine is running..... you just loosen the valve until it clatters then back until it stops clattering, then a quarter turn more to set it. quick and easy :)
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the beast has made it to the mailboxes, up the hill, and back(about 1/2 mile each way) without dying!
the last time i tried this it hickuped the entire way back and died about 75 times :x oh yeah...one of my exhaust hangers was loose though, so about half way i heard a wierd noise, looked out the window at the back tire and saw my tailpipe draggin on the ground, so i tied it to the inner fender with an old plug wire :x ...yeah, im ghetto. |
LOL! you need a roll of bailing wire, you can fix just about anything....... it's like duct tape for cars :D
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In case it hasen't been mentioned yet:
Don't use rubber line if it contacts braided line at any point. The braided line will cut through the rubber, and that would not be good. |
thanks debaser, i never though of that
ashton: i had it tied to the leaf spring with an "oragami" coat hanger type assembly :x but it mysteriously fell off...at least i wasnt hauling ass down the highway...though it would have been entertaining |
in nevada...so the project is stalled for a while...ill revive the post when i get home :)
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