06-02-2006, 02:26 PM | #1 (permalink) |
Watcher
Location: Ohio
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Changing out clutch in 2002 Lancer: Questions
Hi all,
I've got a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer 2.0L 4 banger w/5 sp transmission. I've got just a tiny bit over 50k on the car. I'm starting to think I may need a new clutch soon. It seems like that might be a bit early, but based on how I used to abuse the clutch when I first got it (brand new) it's highly likely I contributed to the loss of friction material. Right now I'm experiencing some jerkiness with the car. For example: I'll be accelerating, getting up to 40ish and shift up to 4th. If I floor the car there'll be (and not every time, but more often recently) a bit of herk and jerk, then it pulls away (speed increases smoothly). I've been playing with this behavior trying to figure out what it might be, and I think it's a sign of a worn clutch. I notice when I'm in 5th at 65mph, I can floor the car and it smoothly pulls away. But if I'm going 45 or 50 in 5th and floor it there's some "slippage" until it goes a bit faster. Just a little jerk and lurch, then smooth. The take up at heavy throttle in all gears is basically repeating this behavior. To sum up: It feels like when the engine really bears down the clutch slips a bit until the speed increases and the engine's not applying so much force. First question: Does that seem like a reasonable diagnoses to you? For all other intents and purposes the car is functioning 100%. Though, now and then (with the windows down) I smell some clutch. Second Question: How much trouble am I getting into with a FWD compact car and a clutch replacement at home? I'd like those of you that have the experience to use the following to build a picture of my skill level, to help decide if you think I can manage what I'm asking. I've done some car repair over the years since I got my 1st car. This includes: replacing/upgrading heads and intake manifold, valve covers, etc. (top end rebuild), and big ass carb on a 81 Chrysler 318; various suspension work: shocks, leaf springs on an 87 GMC S15: replacement of its 5 speed manual and clutch. on a 90 Ford Crown Vic: replacement of the 4 speed auto and torque converter. various water pump replacements; brakes etc. So. I've taken one or two things apart and put them back together. I always have the best shop manual I can find to help me through it. I follow directions well, and have a pretty fair set of tools. I don't have an engine hoist, but renting one is not a big deal. What I don't have is any experience with a FWD four cylinder transmission layout. Replacing the clutch and trans on the GMC wasn't that hard, because it's RWD. The whole thing basically unbolts and comes down. Same deal with the big Ford. RWD = not too sucky. Now, with FWD I'm assuming I have to pull the engine out to replace the clutch. Or, I'm going to have to *drop* the engine out, in which case I think I'm hosed. Sure, I have 4 tall jack stands; but, I'm sure they don't get high enough to drop an engine down. I'm sure a shop is going to charge me an obscene amount of money for the job. It's got to be a shitload of labor to pull the engine, simply to replace a clutch and throwout bearing. Soz dudes, what do you think? Is this no more complicated than, "Unhook a ton of shit, lift engine out, change clutch, set engine back in, hook back up a ton of shit. Done." or, is this something worth paying the money for a professional to do? Over to you gents.
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I can sum up the clash of religion in one sentence: "My Invisible Friend is better than your Invisible Friend." Last edited by billege; 06-02-2006 at 02:29 PM.. |
06-03-2006, 08:54 AM | #2 (permalink) |
Psycho
Location: North America
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I haven't worked on a mitsu but on some cars you don't have to remove the engine to drop the trans so check the repair manual and see, might save you some time...You've done a trans before so I'd say your qualified, the only real difference between doing a rwd and a fwd is the amount of space you have. Good luck in the endeavor.
As far as your symptoms, 50k is pretty premature for a clutch job but if your sure it's slipping and the clutch is in adjustment then you gotta do what you gotta do. In all honestly a clutch should last 4x as long, sh*t I did my clutch at 157k not because it wore but because the throw-out bearing took a big sh*t. |
06-03-2006, 09:56 AM | #3 (permalink) |
Watcher
Location: Ohio
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That's one place I'm still not sure...is the thing slipping or is there somthing else hinkey? What should I really be looking for to diagnose the clutch as the issue?
__________________
I can sum up the clash of religion in one sentence: "My Invisible Friend is better than your Invisible Friend." |
06-03-2006, 01:12 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
Psycho
Location: North America
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06-04-2006, 09:02 AM | #5 (permalink) |
Watcher
Location: Ohio
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yar! that's what's throwing me a bit. I haven't seen the RPMs rising independant of speed. Could be I'm in the wrong train of thought. I'm going to do what you suggest there and see if anything changes. It's time for some new parts anyway.
__________________
I can sum up the clash of religion in one sentence: "My Invisible Friend is better than your Invisible Friend." |
06-04-2006, 01:00 PM | #6 (permalink) |
Go faster!
Location: Wisconsin
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Yeah, I was thinking about the same thing as far as if the engine revs climb and the speed doesn't, then that would be a clutch slippage problem. Could still be a couple other things, such as a clutch master or slave cylinder. You're saying you're smelling burning clutch. Brakes smell the same way, so don't confuse the two. I'd pull the wheels off of it, and make sure that none of the calipers are hanging up some, causing some drag. This will also cause performance and fuel mileage issues, for obvious reasons.
Personally, I would likely pay someone to do a clutch in a small FWD car. Sounds like you have better tool sets than I do (though that doesn't take much), and a little more experience, too.
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06-08-2006, 05:54 PM | #7 (permalink) | |
Junkie
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Tags |
2002, changing, clutch, lancer, questions |
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