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Old 01-07-2005, 02:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
txd
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two weeks in Japan

Hi all,

I've had a look at a few of the other threads here but just had a few additional questions about an upcoming trip.

I'm planing on taking a two week trip to Japan around the end of September beginning of October. From what I've read October seems to be the wet season , would it be better for me to aim for September in the hopes of getting slightly better weather (with out the head of June-August).

I'm still trying to figure out where to go. Initially I had been thinking about flying into Tokyo spending a while there, heading on to Kyoto and then Osaka and flying home from there. I'm sort of doubting my slef on this now and wondering if it is worth visiting Osaka at all and instead spending more time in Tokyo and Kyoto. Is this a good idea, is Osaka drastically different from Tokyo. I think it would be safe to assume there is enough in Tokyo and surrounding areas to keep me occupied fora week and a half. Any thoughts on how long to spend in Kyoto?

With regards to places to stay hotels for two weeks looks like it could be quite pricey. Can anyone recommend accomodation. So far from research hotel wise the business hotels are going to be the cheapest. I am also planing on taking a laptop so I can off load pictures from my camera. How safe are the hotels and in particular the traditional style hotels/houses, could a laptop be left there unattended during the day?
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Old 01-07-2005, 07:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Location: Tokyo
Two weeks is a tough amount of time to spend in Japan.
Ideally you'd be able to throw a couple more days in there so that you can see a few more places than just the main tourist cities.
Tokyo is going to demand at least one week just to get around to the different hot spots and beautiful areas.
Kyoto is incredible. there is no other way to describe it. and it will also probably demand a week of your time. but you could shorten it by a few days if you wish to see more.
if you wish to experience more of Kansai (which you can do if you purchase a one-week shinkansen pass), you should try to see Nara, Himeji, Miya Jima (although the main temple there was recently, so you could skip it) and Hiroshima.
Nara is an ancient capital, and its filled with amazing temples (including Todai-ji, which is the biggest). its a serious must.
Himeji is the home of Himeji-jo (Shogun Tokugawa's own castle) which is the most incredible ancient japanese castle you will ever see... (and i owe my own experience there to the tfp, because i asked almost the exact same question two years ago)
Miya Jima is a tiny island with an important temple... but it also has the floating Torii (that red gate 'floating' in the middle of the water that you see in the tourist pictures. but as i said, the temple was ruined by either a typhoon or a ship (i forget which) recently, so this could dampen the experience a bit... they also have the most incredible oyster trade there.
Hiroshima is a strong possibility for obvious reasons.
I never got to Osaka, so i can't say if its too similar to Tokyo.
as for accomodation... in Tokyo i recommend Kimi Ryokan (its the most obvious choice for westerns who've read the lonely planet... but don't let that distract you... it really is a great, clean, private place which is very affordable). its in Ikebukero, on the Yamanote line (for one-weeks worth its the only public transport you'll need to worry about, except if you wish to get to roppongi), and its fairly easy to get to.
i stayed in a much smaller ryokan in kyoto. and that was lovely too, but since it was a family run place, they did have a curfew, so that might be something to remember. Kyoto has hundreds of places like that. the city itself is fairly manageable since it has a manageable bus system and a subway.
safety in the ryokans (and indeed Japan as a whole - by far the safest place i've ever experienced) i stayed in was not an issue. but to be on the safe side, i'd make sure your laptop was at least out of view in your suitcase (locked) when you weren't there.

i'd love to read other opinions about Osaka.
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Old 01-08-2005, 12:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
txd
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Bundy, thanks for the great input. Lots to think about there. Unfortunately I am pretty much limited to two weeks, 1 due to work and the second being my GF's lack of funds (all though I will be helping out as much as possible on that side of things. At most I could probably swing 16 days (although I'll immediately be losing a day at the beginning and again at the end thanks to flights.
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Old 01-08-2005, 02:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
txd
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With regards to accomodation. Has anyone looked into renting an appartment for short time periods 1-2weeks. I assume if possible this would work out cheaper than hoteling it.
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Old 01-09-2005, 12:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
Psycho
 
Location: that place with the thing
Here are a few recommendations (though they may be a bit biased, as I prefer the Kansai region over Tokyo).

Not a month ago, my best friend and I embarked on a trip around Japan at the end of our semester. We started in Kyoto/Osaka, then moved southward, hitting Nagasaki, Fukuoka, Hiroshima, then Kurashiki. We then hit Kyoto/Osaka again for a few days, and went north to Nagoya, Nagano, and then celebrated the New Year in Tokyo.

That said, I honestly believe Tokyo is far overhyped. Here's the rundown: it's big. Damned, if I may be so bold, fucking big. You won’t have seen anything like it, and you wont ever again unless you go back. It's metropolitan area includes 8 million more people than the entire New York Metro area, which by measurement is far larger in area. Tokyo Metro is about 2 times the size of the next largest city, Shanghai. So, while I do think Tokyo is overhyped, I definitely think everyone should see it. The first time I saw Tokyo - and specifically, the 2 million people that move through Shinjuku station every hour or so - it shifted my world view.
Then again, I don't think Tokyo deserves a week. I'd say spend a day seeing Yasakuni Shrine, Meiji Shrine, and Akihabara (the most phenomenal electronics district I've ever had the opportunity to behold); then spend one more putzing around Shinjuku/Harajuku during the day and Shibuya at night. That's two nights. And, in my honest opinion, it's all you really need. Then again, coming from the Osaka, the shopping/dining aspect of Tokyo doesn't really do much for me.
As a side note, if you can get up around 5 in the morning or so (which may well be possible, given jet lag), you should definitely see Tsukiji Fish Market. Fucking awesome.

By saving a few days, you can make a one or two day trip over to Nagano. There's an onsen (hot spring) about an hour by bus which is also the home of over 270 wild monkeys. I'd imagine that would be fucking wild. I didn't get a chance to go there, as I was running short on money by that leg of the trip, but I really wish I had. Onsen are definitely worth a few hours, or a day if necessary for travel. And even without doing the onsen, Nagano was great fun, and one of the prettiest cities, in my opinion.

From Nagano, I would then begin maneuvering south, through Kyoto and Osaka. Kyoto is the main attraction here. As Bundy said, Kyoto deserves easily a week. Most importantly, I would hit up the Philosopher's Walk, or Higashiyama Walk (both of which include Ginkakuji - my personal favorite temple in Kyoto). The two are essentially the same thing, but Higashiyama Walk includes Kiyomizu-dera, making it a preferable day trip. However, I personally believe Kiyomizu-dera and the warren of streets at its base deserves a full day, but as you are constrained on time, this may not be possible. After that, I would hit up Heian Shrine, with it's beautiful Shin'en Gardens (featured in Lost in Transalation), and then Chion'in, which is a close walk. I would make sure to hit Kinkakuji (Temple of the Golden Pavilion), and Sanjusangendo (Hall of 1001 Kannon).
If you decide to come in the late October (you mention early, I recommend later), you'll be in the Koyo season, or the Leaf-Changing season. As such, do not pass Go, do not collect $200 until you see Tenryu-ji. It is the single loveliest place to witness Koyo that the entire earth may provide. And you can make a full day out of it by going to Katsura Villa in the morning, and sticking around Tenryu-ji through the afternoon and until dusk.

Osaka can be a day trip from Kyoto, meaning you won’t really need to find a place to stay and whatnot. Osaka is definitely my favorite metropolitan city in Japan (it stomps the hell out of Tokyo, if you ask me), but it doesn't house the numerous shrines that Kyoto has, and as such doesn't need to be a landmark in your trip. I suspect you're coming to Japan for the aesthetic nature, rather than the party scene. If this is such, wake up late on day in Kyoto, get over to Osaka, see Umeda (and the Umeda Sky Building), and the Osaka Aquarium. Then, if you want and are feeling energetic, pull an all-nighter and hit up a club in Osaka. If you want a club where you might meet some foreigners, I'd recommend Sam and Dave's #s 2 or 5, both of which can be found a short walk from Yodoyabashi or Umeda. If you want to practice your Japanese (provided you speak any to practice), I personally like the club Za'Zae in Umeda, or Neo in Triangle district.

Then, I would take Bundy's advice: head south. You cannot pass up Miyajima: it is one of Nihon Sankei, or the "Three Beautiful Views of Japan." The floating O-torii is magnificent, and Itsukushima Shrine is badass as well. And though a typhoon in 1997 (if i recall correctly) caused some damage, it didn't level the place. The vast majority of the original structure remains. Miyajima also has one of the three five-story pagodas in Japan (though the name deserts me). And if you have a day to spend, CLIMB MOUNT MISEN. It is the single best thing I did on my trip. The view of the Inland Sea is beyond words.

I, personally, would then continue south and see Fukuoka for a day, and Nagasaki for a day or two. I personally enjoyed Nagasaki's Hewa Kouen, or Peace Park, more than I did Hiroshima. But that may be just me.

I would then fly out of Kansai International Airport in Osaka to save on traveling time and not have to go all the way back to Tokyo.

If you have any other questions, just post 'em. But my greatest piece of advice is to cut short your time in Tokyo and use it to see things that, in my opinion, are more worth the time and money you spent to get here.
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Old 01-18-2005, 12:01 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Tokyo is lots of fun if you know where to go. Don't miss the trains home or WHOOPS, you gotta stay in the bar until they start running again at 5 (not always a bad thing, but when you're short on time...) I lived in Nagano for 18 months. It is a beautiful place to visit, and yes, the monkey onsen is quite amazing, but it really is out of the way, especially if you want to spend some time in Kyoto. I spent a week in Tokyo and a week in Kyoto, and I feel like I missed quite a bit. Go through the books and pick things that you really want to see, and don't try to see it all, THERE'S WAY TOO MUCH. Take a day trip to Nara, it's an awesome place to visit out of Kyoto. The Uno House in Kyoto was the cheapest we found, but remember, you get what you pay for, and I wouldn't leave my laptop there. (PS. It's not the Japanese you have to worry about stealing your stuff, it's when you share a room with ...) I never hung out in Osaka (except to visit Universal Studios) but I hear the people are super friendly, but it's so much like Tokyo that you might not want to waste the time. THE FOOD! Go to rotating sushi! Don't pass up on the ramen, and definitely try the okonomiyaki! You'll have a great time, I miss that crazy place! -T
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