ergdork

I've got a big (85lbs) yellow lab. He's really still a puppy - a year and a half old. Hes a bit of a spaz (as most labs are at his age).

Anyway, I'd like to be able to run with him. The problem is that for the first 5 minutes, he is jumping all over the place and generally rediculous. For the rest of the run, he's dragging behind me. And I'm slow to begin with.

Any advice on training dogs to run? Or do I just need to wait a bit til he's calmer?

Seaver

When you run with your dog tighten the leash on him. Try to keep the leash between 45 and 90 degrees, he shouldnt be more than a body length infront of you. If he tires out just try to keep him up. Make sure he's well hidrated too, dogs overheat easily and they only get rid of heat through their mouths.

You also said it yourself, he's a spaz, they are as puppies. If you hold him the same way everytime you run (and reward him when he's good) he'll learn quickly how to do things properly. Dont wait till he's "calmer", after all teaching old dogs new tricks...

TheJig

I would start by teaching him how to walk. Carry his favorite treat and keep him focused on it. If he tugs, stop walking and make him sit. This shows him that tugging on the leash doesn't give him the desired result. Start off with very short walks and build up to longer ones. The main thing is that if you don't want a dog who tugs on the leash, don't let your puppy tug on the leash.

Consistency is the key. If you consistently do things the same way, he will learn. And remember that when a puppy is on a run, almost everything is new to it... smells, sights, new people, other animals, so it's going to be hard for them to remain focused.

Just hang in there, it's so worth it to spend that time with your dog, they'll love you for it. And if you're single, there's no better way to meet people.

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"Jenny, tell me, do you still walk, do you still get into sandwiches in a big way?" - Flight of the Conchords

pook

Funny. This morning I went for a run and decided to try taking my 6 mo. old Golden. She's a puppy/spaz, too. After a mile or so she settled down, but she's over 50 lbs. now and still pulls me every which way. I think running with her may never be a reality.

HOWEVER

If you've not tried a leader collar, do so. NOT a choker collar, but a leader collar. They're humane and keep a dog more under control. When we walk our little spaz with the leader collar (it's all we use now) she's much more controlled. It may work for running, too.

ibis

WHen we got Mac, our black lab, he was much the same way. I used to be able to out run him when he was a puppy. Once he got a little older, he was much faster then I. Now that he's old, I can outrun him again.

Just give her a little time, she'll speed up soon enough.

splck

Like TheJig said, start with teaching your dog the correct way to walk. Once he learns manners (no pulling, no visiting other dogs while on command) you should be able to run with only the weight of the leash on your hand.
Try a promise halter in the meantime, as it will stop any pulling. A choke chain isn't good idea. Remember to give little treats when he does something you want.

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nice line eh?

xrtc11

i have a training collar, or choke chain, whatever. It really works well and makes walking and running with the dog much much easier and more enjoyable. also, puppies are puppies and have tons of energy. Mine's 3 and still as much of a puppy as he was @ 1. gotta love em though.

pook

FYI xrtc11: A choke chain is not a training collar. Dog trainers to not advocate the use of a choke collar. Leader collars work VERY well and, well, don't choke your dog.

superiorrain

Pretend you're the mail man and then then ring the door bell and run... and keep running or he'll get you!!!!

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"The only way to discover the limits of the possible is to go beyond them into the impossible." - Arthur C. Clarke

joeb1

When my dog and I run. I normally let her take the leash out as far as it will go. I don't like being pulled through my runs. So if I feel she is setting the pace to fast. I give a small correction (jerk). She turns around to give me that, "what did I do, your the one slowing ME down look" She will slow down. Or I give the heel command, and lock the leash.

Now I know some of you probably don't agree with using the retractable type leashes. I think that all depends on the environment. When we run. We come across at the most five cars during a 5-8 mile run. I can see and hear any car approaching. And my dog does follow commands I have taught her. Such as "come" when a car does approach. At which point the heel command is given, and the leash is locked as a precaution.

If you have a puppy that is not used to a leash yet. You might want to go to a puppy obedience class. I found out this is a big help with young dogs and gives them a good base for later training. Plus, if you have a family, it gets everyone involved with the training. My kids now can give her commands and feel confident she will not pull them across the yard.

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Disco Duck...

Acetylene

Teaching your dog to walk first is key. Ideally, your dog will Heel so well it doesn't even need a leash (Although you will use one anyway for safety). You need to do a lot of drills, where you walk around in a park and make lots of crazy turns and keep changing your speed--not to trick your dog, but to make him pay attentiont. Give him praise every time he follows you. Soon it will be automatic.

Also, make sure you train him to SIT when you stop moving. This will keep him from letting his momentum drag you into the street or other dangerous situations.

Whether you use treats is sort of up to you, but it's my opinion that you only need/want treats for the first session, when you need every advantage you can get. The rest of the time, if you need food to make your dog care, then your relationship to the dog is what needs work, not its obedience training.

Joeb is right about an obedience class, but what these are really good for is not actual training (you still need to do that at home) but getting him used to working around distractions. Your little spaz needs to be able to focus on you anytime, anywhere. Someday his life may depend on it, when he is running after a squirrel into the street and you say "Come!"

Labs can be exhuberant, but they are good dogs and there is nothing stopping them from responding to firm, consistent, and loving training. A year and a half is PLENTY old enough to learn Heel perfectly (He is capable of knowing this as early as 6 months!)

Choke collars are a bad idea--the leash is only there for safety, not to punish your dog. If you need to punish/correct him, you should grab the scruff of his neck, the way a real alpha dog would--the choke collar does not communicate to him the same way. Speaking of alpha dog, your dog needs to be on the bottom of the totem pole in your family; even your 2-year-old should be able to command him to Sit (a bit of an exaggeration, but you get the point). This is vital for the safety of your children, and the sanity of your dog, because dogs are not equipped to lead in human sociaty (duh) and will get confused, stressed, and will act out if they don't have clear leadership.

One last thing (long, I know, sorry): Find out what your Lab wants to do, and give him regular chances to do it. This will help him stay focussed and trust you to let him have fun. If he likes to sniff, stop once every 10 minutes or so, and say "OK sniff!" and let him sniff a nice rank pile of garbage. If he likes to bark, say "OK bark"; if he likes to run free, get a retractable leash and just say "OK" (OK releases a dog from a Stay or Heel--important) and let him run to the end of the leash.

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There's no justice. There's just us.

ratbastid

Try a "Gentle Leader" coller. It wraps around the dog's muzzle and the back of their neck, stimulating parts of them that trigger submission and relaxation. My pup's old enough now she walks very politely on a normal band collar, but when she was younger, the Gentle Leader was the only thing that kept my shoulder in its socket.

More info here: http://www.sitstay.com/store/equip/gentleleader.shtml

cataklysm

"If you’re planning to lurch from your couch to the road in search of fitness, you may find it easier with a partner. But finding a jogging partner with the same amount of commitment as you is pretty tough – too often both the flesh and the spirit are weak.

One partner that won’t let you down on the track is your faithful dog. He’s usually ready, willing and able to help you shed that holiday weight you may have packed on, or to help you maintain the physique you’ve sweated so much for.

However, before you grab your running shoes and his leash, there are a few things you’ll want to remember:


He may be as out of shape as you, so go easy. Before starting him out on your exercise program, have him checked by a veterinarian (his heart, lungs, joints, etc.). By the way, if you haven’t been exercising for some time, you may want to consider a checkup as well.


Start out slowly and build up endurance. Warm him up by walking first, followed by a short jog. Let him cool down with a walk at the end.


Watch him carefully for any signs of discomfort. Dogs are eager to please and yours will be thrilled to be out running with you. Unlike you, they’ll ignore or even be unaware of pain. If you see him struggling or tiring, walk.


Mind the weather. Dogs cannot tolerate heat as efficiently as you can. Consequently, they’re at greater risk for heat stroke or dehydration during warm weather. The best time to jog is early in the morning or the evening, to avoid the hottest time of day.


Bring enough water for yourself and your dog.

You should also be aware of the ground you’re running on. Your dog doesn’t have the fancy jell-filled shock absorber system that graces your feet; he’s running on his own pads. If he’s been cooped up inside, the pads will likely be soft. Give him time to build endurance by walking for a distance, then some running, followed by walking. As his pads toughen, you can increase the time you spend running.

The most common injury is pad wear. If your dog shows signs of soreness or has trouble getting to his feet, you’ll want to take him to the veterinarian. One way to decrease the chance of injury is to use a product called Pad Guard®, which is a spray applied directly to your dog’s feet. The spray forms a protective barrier.

His pads, by the way, are part of his perspiration system. Your dog cools down by panting and sweating through the pads. If the ground is hot, he won’t be able to cool down as much (another reason to run in the morning or evening).

If you see signs of overheating, stop immediately and cool him down slowly with cool or tepid water (not cold). Signs of overheating include the following:


Excessive panting

Increased salivation

Red gums

Increased heart rate

Vomiting

Diarrhea

Weakness

One last point: keep your dog leashed, for his protection and the protection of others. Even an obedient dog may suddenly want to greet another animal or person. In high traffic areas, this could lead to tragedy. Follow these steps and you both can run to a healthier lifestyle."

http://petplace.netscape.com/article...asp?artID=2582


Other Links:
http://running.syr.edu/column/19980921.html

http://www.pedigree.com/NR/exeres/00...ookie%5Ftest=1

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--Cataklysm--