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Old 04-07-2006, 06:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Location: New York, NY
The Elements of Shaving

I have facial hair that grows in really thick, and shaving every day (at all) is really a chore. Luckily my girlfriend likes the feel of a little stubble. But when I do shave I can't seem to get out of it without irritating my skin and drawing some blood, especially on my neck.

So- what kinds of razors are the best? Straight razor? double, triple, quadruple, or quintuple (gasp...) blades? Has anyone tried those battery powered vibrating razors?

What kind of creams do people like? I've used edge tough beards, and kiehls, which I like, but kiehls is a major wallet buster.

Short quick strokes? Long slow strokes? what's your technique?

I find that I get a much closer shave if I go against the grain, but it's also much more likely to be irritating.

Pre shave washes? Moisterizers? Help a guy out here: what's worked for you?
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Old 04-07-2006, 06:14 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Against the grain is sure fire irritation, breaking out, and cuts for me. I always go with the grain.

At this point in my life, I'm confined to shaving every other day to preserve the integrity of the skin of my neck - collared shirts are a bitch. Unfortunately, I also grow a lot of facial hair, so that means 2/3 of the time I look like I should have shaved.

On the occassions that I've had a barber shave me with a straight razor, they shave with the grain, then re-lather and do it again against (and across on the neck). This results in a really great shave. It doesn't work when I do it myself. I've got a straight razor, but I'm not really good enough at sharpening it. That's a shame, because I enjoy the process more with the straight razor - regardless of the results.
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Old 04-07-2006, 06:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm sure my facial hair is nowhere near as thick as yours, but here's some things I do...

First, shave after taking a hot shower. Make sure there is a lot of steam and that you keep your face under the water stream for a while.

I'm not sure if number of blades actually does anything, but I do think sharpness of the blade makes a huge difference. If your beard is as thick as you say,you may need to change blades after using it only 3 or 4 times.

Short quick strokes and rince off the stubble often. Also, try not to go over the same area 3, 4, 5 times in a row, because after 2 strokes, there is basically no lubricant left on your face.

I've heard good things about the vibrating razors, but have not used one myself.

Aftershave is a good thing, but I wouldn't use anything that calls itself "aftershave." I usually use my wife's oil of olay sensative skin face cream. Yeah, doesn't sound too manly, but it works great.
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Old 04-07-2006, 06:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I have the battery operated mach3 and I've noticed it irritates my skin much less.
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Old 04-07-2006, 06:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by el cowboy
So- what kinds of razors are the best? Straight razor? double, triple, quadruple, or quintuple (gasp...) blades? Has anyone tried those battery powered vibrating razors?
Battery powered razors seemed like a good idea, but I really didn't notice any difference between the kind that shook because of a motor and the kind that shake because of my fear of slicing off my lips. While they have have other functions, I'm not sure if there really is a benifit. I use a mach 3 (non turbo, I prefer naturally aspirated), and it seems to work just fine. More than 3 blades seems a bit excessive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by el cowboy
What kind of creams do people like? I've used edge tough beards, and kiehls, which I like, but kiehls is a major wallet buster.
Neutrogena makes a few decent gells. I usually use them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by el cowboy
Short quick strokes? Long slow strokes? what's your technique?
Long slow strokes, repeated several times. The only time I go against the grain is to shave my sideburns (from my jawline to the mid ear area) because I know that area on my face doesn't really get irritated by shaving. Learn your face, and shave appropriatly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by el cowboy
I find that I get a much closer shave if I go against the grain, but it's also much more likely to be irritating.
Of course. Be sure that you wash your face for at least one minute with warm water so that your stuble is softer and won't act like little pieces of wood. Shave with the grain first, then again, then against if necessary. Always go slow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by el cowboy
Pre shave washes? Moisterizers? Help a guy out here: what's worked for you?
I shave before work, apply aftershave, and put on a moisturizer. I suggest that, since all faces are different, you experiment until you find what works for you.
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Old 04-07-2006, 07:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I find that the times I get most irritated by shaving are when I've applied too much pressure. Your job is just to glide the blade across your skin, not to scrape with it. The blade is sharp--let it do the cutting. Also, don't reuse blades for very long. I find I can only get maybe four or five shaves out of a blade before it starts gouging me.

I use the non-sex-toy version of the Mach 3. I don't know if the number of blades makes that much difference, but the pivoting head is really excellent. The head trails behind the handle sort of like a paintbrush head. Makes it much easier to get the right angle.

I get my best shave when I haven't shaved in a day or two. I shave in a hot shower. I lather up (using Colegate with Aloe shaving cream), and make one pass with the grain. Then I re-cream, if needed, and go again--against the grain on my face and across the grain on my neck.
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Old 04-07-2006, 08:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Ratbastid - you shave IN the shower?

(and I swear I'm not trying to make you repeat it so I can visualize!!)
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Old 04-07-2006, 08:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Slow, short, not too hard, and with the grain*.

Ratbastid-Do you have a mirror in your shower? I don't know how some people can shave without a mirror (or floss either for that matter.) I'm sure its just a matter of practice, but with shaving I'd be worried I'd cut my self too much before I got the hang of it. Something about razors near my neck that makes me catious.

*On a sidenote, does it really make sense to say with the grain for facial hair? I know that everyone gets what that means but our faces arn't wood and don't have grains. Just seems funny to me.
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Old 04-07-2006, 09:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Gillette Mach 3 turbo work best on my face, but i have to take things slow to avoid some serious ouchies.
The M3 (vibrating razor) tore my face to crap, but i did get a good shave, lol.

My favourite razor was always my wilkinson sword FX with bendy blades, that thing was the absoloute nuts. Shame i stopped being able to find blades.
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Old 04-07-2006, 09:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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There's a simply awesome thread regardnig the Gillette Fusion here: FatWallet Forums - Gillette Fusion 5 Blade Razor $2.99 after $6 Extrac bucks. Pay attention to the posts by Optsol; he's a consultant for Gillette, and knows the real science behind the blade design.
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Old 04-07-2006, 09:40 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm with Ratbastid on shaving in the shower. It opens up your pores, heats the blade and helps with the clean up too. I use a handheld mirror to see what I'm doing.

I've also found that lathering up with soap can really give you a close shave. You just have to moisturise heavily afterwards.

Nothing beats a straight blade shave by an old school barber though. That's a sublime experience that I recommend for anybody.
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Old 04-07-2006, 09:44 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Let your ladies watch you shave occassionally too--shaving is one of the sexiest things that a fella can do... mmmmhhmmmmm
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Old 04-07-2006, 10:33 AM   #13 (permalink)
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From what I've gleaned about the male shaving process from Queer Eye: Shave in the shower or at least right after your shower. The hot water and steam soften your beard. Get yourself a fog-free mirror and put that in the shower. Use whatever cream or gel softens your beard best. Personally, I really like the Tom's of Maine shaving creams for my, erm, coarser non-facial hair. They make a version for men that is minty. It's great because it's made with natural soaps and oils and lathers up really nicely. Change your blade often--as often as needed. I recommend using whatever razor Costco has the blades for. Use a good aftershave balm. If you do get irritation/breakouts, use witch hazel as needed.

Hope that helps.
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Last edited by snowy; 04-07-2006 at 10:36 AM..
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Old 04-07-2006, 12:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ubertuber
Ratbastid - you shave IN the shower?

(and I swear I'm not trying to make you repeat it so I can visualize!!)
Hell, visualize if you want to. It's not all that exciting.

I have a fog-resistant mirror. You have to hose it down with hot water, but then it stays unfogged for several minutes, plenty long enough to shave. It suction-cups onto the wall right at chin height. Before I got that, I shaved by "touch", which worked, but my sideburns and goatee edges tended to wander.

In the shower is the best time I've ever found for shaving. Your pores are wide open, your beard is as soft as it's going to be, and cleanup is a piece of cake.
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Old 04-07-2006, 01:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Another one for shaving in the shower. It's easy, water's everywhere, etc. Plus the fog resistant mirror I have let's me hang razors on it, which is handy.
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Old 04-07-2006, 05:04 PM   #16 (permalink)
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seeing impaired

I just bought a fog resistant mirror, with the places to hang a razor on it, so I'll try the shower thing tomorrow. I'm a little concerned though, because I'm blind as a bat, and I don't have fog resistant glasses...

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Old 04-07-2006, 06:25 PM   #17 (permalink)
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After some experimentation - my experience (for my face only) is

a) expensive shavers feel nice in the hand, but do nothing else

b) 'bic' disposables single blades (rigid neck) irritate my skin the least
... and a rigid neck allows me control the angle, eg as I go around my
neck.

c) "sensitive skin" bic disposables work ok, but I'm liable to have a big growth by
evening. Good for minimizing damage though if I shave in a hurry, or if
I'm touching up before going out at night (I shave mornings).

d) I shave no more than once on weekends (eg Saturday evening).. nice to have a
day off.

e) Don't shave against the grain - except when you're being very very careful
(eg on a date). The difference is minimal, the damage can be with you
for days.

f) Conventional shave cream with hot water and brush is ideal. Since only
crappy brands sell that now, I settle for the foaming gel in a can -
even though it's cold.

g) Take care every day. You can rush everything but the actual pass of the
razor over the skin, which has to be slow. Cuts, irritations last for days
(if you shave daily) so it's best to avoid them in the first place.

h) Three blade razors do nothing more than three passes of a single blade -
and three passes daily is probably too much in my view.

i) Electric razors are best reserved for emergency shaves (in the car). On the
other hand, I get better results with an electric now that I use a
much lighter touch - and now that I don't go after every single stubborn hair.

j) To shave the adams-apple, first pull the skin to the right and shave that patch
then do the reverse. I used to attempt to shave it "in place". No good.
Skin can be moved... : >

I'm not that keen on the idea of disposables, they seem wasteful, ugly and "cheap". They work well for me though. I only by a small packed at once also - as theory would imply that they can rust once exposed to air. (They're probably packed in N2 or something, I figure).

I never put toilet paper on cuts. I've seen people do this.... not only does it look silly, but doesn't seem hygenic (or at least, it doesn't seem hygenic looking) to me.

I reckon... you should let a cut bleed for a short while, then once the blood is syrupy (perhpas 5min later?) wipe the surface blood off with water. I recheck and wipe again prior to "arrival" to work, party or whatever. Once again, I use water only.

That's pretty much a summary of what works for me.
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Old 04-08-2006, 06:44 AM   #18 (permalink)
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One thing I've noticed when I used to shave with the grain, and then switch and go against the second run over the same area was I got ingrown hairs abound. Painful, and rather unsightly. Almost always on the underside of my chin so not terribly visible, but nevertheless. I only go with the grain now and have no problems.

For equipment, I use a Mach3 Turbo with Edge sensitive skin shave gel. It works well for me, esp because I have rather irritable skin, I almost never get razor burn or anything with this combonation.

I'm afraid what it's going to boil down to is that everyone is different and different things are going to work for different people. You may be stuck with trail and error until you find what works best for you.
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Old 04-08-2006, 11:24 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratbastid
I find that the times I get most irritated by shaving are when I've applied too much pressure. Your job is just to glide the blade across your skin, not to scrape with it. The blade is sharp--let it do the cutting. Also, don't reuse blades for very long. I find I can only get maybe four or five shaves out of a blade before it starts gouging me.

I use the non-sex-toy version of the Mach 3. I don't know if the number of blades makes that much difference, but the pivoting head is really excellent. The head trails behind the handle sort of like a paintbrush head. Makes it much easier to get the right angle.

I get my best shave when I haven't shaved in a day or two. I shave in a hot shower. I lather up (using Colegate with Aloe shaving cream), and make one pass with the grain. Then I re-cream, if needed, and go again--against the grain on my face and across the grain on my neck.
He speaks the truth. Let the blade do the work. Make sure it is sharp. Shaving cream is a lubricant. Washing with warm, soapy water softens the beard. With the grain. That should do it!
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Old 04-08-2006, 11:29 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I don't shave in the shower but it is the first thing I do after getting out of the shower. My pores are open and the face is ready for the razor. Cold water rinse after the shave...

I could swear that we have covered all of this before.
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Old 04-08-2006, 03:56 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Shaving in the shower really made a difference! I didn't have any irritation - no cuts either.

It was kind of hard to see though, just because I am so blind. Maybe it's time for eye surgery. Really: anything for a good shave.

Things I've learned so far:
1)ratbastid speaks the truth
2)everybodies face is different
3)the blades of a mach3 supposedly all have different functions - in other words, 3 strokes with a single blade is not the same as one stroke with a triple blade - that may be total bs though

And Charlatan, I agree: a final cold rinse is key - to close those pores back up and keep out acne causing dirt and grime.

el cowboy
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Old 04-08-2006, 03:56 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlatan
I don't shave in the shower but it is the first thing I do after getting out of the shower. My pores are open and the face is ready for the razor. Cold water rinse after the shave...

I could swear that we have covered all of this before.
You are correct, it was covered a year or so ago.
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Old 04-08-2006, 10:19 PM   #23 (permalink)
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check this out
http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/F...or%20Shave.pdf

ever since I got a straight razor shave at a barber shop I've wanted to shave that way regularly... the startup cost can be pretty high, but taken care of the razor will last a lifetime, no buying expensive refills...

after the barber shaved me with the straight razor I felt smoother then ever and had almost no irritation which is usually a big problem with me

unless Its a special occasion I just run my trimmer over without the plastic adjustment on it, and basically just have perma stubble, if your girlfriend doesnt mind the stubble just go with that.
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Old 04-09-2006, 09:14 AM   #24 (permalink)
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jstrider...just read your awesome article. very cool...i may have to try this.
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Old 04-09-2006, 08:10 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I also read the article on the train to DC tonight - very useful, lots of information, and on top of that - a good read!

Thanks
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Old 04-10-2006, 06:41 AM   #26 (permalink)
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yah... I wish i had the money to get started usin the straight razor... i'll get it eventually tho

i figure even if when I use it, I still get all irritated, then if nothing else at least i'll be shaving with a badass tool that could take off a persons head... doesnt get much tougher/cooler/manlier then that
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Old 04-10-2006, 07:02 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Yeah, I'd totally love to use a straight razor, if only for the ritual of it.
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:24 AM   #28 (permalink)
ARRRRRRRRRR
 
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I'll agree with the straight razor love. When I used to go to the barber that was my favorite part of the experience. Maybe Ill have to look into it again.

Currently I use the vibraty Mach 3 and I love it. I didn't really notice alot of difference on my face when i bought the powered one but there was a huge difference on my head. I hardly ever cut noggin anymore. I tried the vibrating Fusion and didn't like it at all. It irritated the hell out of my neck and generally just hurt to shave with so I went back to the Mach 3.

I'm not sure if it would help any more with the thick beard or not but I use this stuff for my head and love it headslick . If you want to try it don't order it online. They sell it cheaper at Walgreens.
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Old 04-10-2006, 09:19 PM   #29 (permalink)
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hmm for those tricky spots under the jaw I usual shave against the grain and then after that shave with it, but my idea in doing this might be a little bit single minded.
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Old 04-10-2006, 10:22 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I'm on some special mailing list. I don't know how I got on it, but I don't complain, although I often suspect that it is just a scam to get me to buy blades.

A couple years ago, I got a mach 3, when they were somewhat new. It was a problem because the styled curved base couldn't be used as a mirror. I was a shower shaver, with my old 2 blade razor base having a reflective metal panel that acted as a mirror. I moved into three blades nontheless.

Then about a year later I got a "Champion", which had a different handle and was red, but also came with a fresh cartridge so I started using it. No improvement. A few months after that, I got a "M3 Turbo", which had the new handle design, but was a cooler dark metal, and significantly had superior blades. I didn't believe the blades were superior until I bought non-turbo blades, but turbo is >> than non-turbo.

I was happy with the standard m3 turbo, but I got an M3 Power last fall. It took a shave or two to get used to, but I found that I could shave closer easier and again, I was happy. Early this year my free Fusion arrived in the mail, which feels a bit odd (as I've been shaving with the same sized m3 head for 6 years or so). It does actually give the best shave I've had, but even at costo the blades are too expensive. Both the m3 power and the Fusion hang from my shower mirror.

In summary, I support the m3 power and could get behind the Fusion. Never had an old school shave, although my father still does. I think he still has a strop in the bathroom.
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Old 04-13-2006, 12:05 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I have been using a straight razor for years and every time i tried something else i was just annoyed by it and shaving in the shower has worked best for me but i never had any problem with sensitivity. if your shaky or worried about cutting yourself i wouldnt suggest it but as long as you dont slide the blade sideways you wont get cut.
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Old 04-13-2006, 01:20 PM   #32 (permalink)
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ive skimmed through all the posts..i couldnt seem to find anywhere where about exfoliating before shaving. i shave in the shower, but i exfoliate first to get rid of any dead skin. then i have after a few mins in the shower and moisturise after i get out. the only issue i have iwth shaving in the shower is that sometimes u get offcuts in your chest hairs lol
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Old 04-14-2006, 07:23 AM   #33 (permalink)
ARRRRRRRRRR
 
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I miss being able to shave in the shower but my current apartment has a tiny little water heater so I haven't been able to do that the last couple years.
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Old 04-15-2006, 11:42 PM   #34 (permalink)
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oh i have the new fusion... its great.but like other blades it also gets dull after a few shaves... ive learned to shave every other day... and i use williams muggs soap... its really good .... probably the best soap ive used.. i dont like gels or foams.. also regular soap werks good too but u haveto lotion up hevy afterwards... and i always go against the grain cause i cant get a close shave otherwise.. can someone tell me how they do it with out going against the grain?
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Old 04-26-2006, 11:44 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I used to get really horrid irritation, until I started using Art of Shaving products and techniques (nothing special with technique, just proper prep and care).

My routine:

1. Exfoliate in the shower
2. Hot towel to open pores and soften beard (I can't shave in the shower, as I have "elaborate" facial hair that requires me to have a well-lit mirror)
3. Apply several drops of pre-shave oil (I use Art of Shaving)
4. Work a thin layer of shave cream onto the face with my brush (I used to use Art of Shaving, but I'm out right now)
5. Shave first WITH the grain, putting barely any pressure on the razor. I'm currently using a Fusion Power, which I really like. I've also used an M3, which I also liked. My favorite razor is my old straight razor, but it's the kind with replaceable blades, which I couldn't find in town. It was by far the most comfortable shave, aside from having a professional straight razor shave done at Art of Shaving. If you're still not 100% smooth, try shaving across or against the grain as a follow up.
6, Rinse with cool water to close the pores.
7. Apply a moisturzing aftershave. I like Art of Shaving Post-Shave Balm for that.

Also, Art of Shaving has a really nice book on the science, art, and theory of shaving. It's a nice, basic intro to shaving properly, and has a load of nice photos as well.
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Old 04-27-2006, 04:57 AM   #36 (permalink)
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I always shave the moment I get out of the shower. I alway shave in a down motion, usally hit the same area twice. The Neck I do have to apply some extra pressure.

My shave is close, but real close, cause I dont shave in a up motion; however, I never get razor burn and I never get cut. I think the pay off is worth it.
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Old 04-27-2006, 06:17 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Used to shave with an electric because of skins problems, but the dang thing kept on causing more irratation then its worth. Now a days I shave with the grain the first pass, then go against it for the second. Have yet to get any ingrown hairs really. My beards way too friggin thick, so I end up using short strokes, otherwise the blades stops dead after a little bit.
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Old 05-24-2006, 09:43 AM   #38 (permalink)
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well i had abad experience.. i usually use my electric but switched to fusion power soo after a week of shaving ive broken out horribly on my face.... i mean anywhere i shaved there was anew pimple that would hurt when tryingt o shve the next.. well im sure u all kno what its like.. so anyway i think im giving up on shaving with a razor....... wait ill use it only on the moustache area cause i didnt break out there jsut on my cheeks.... i feel like i went thru puberty again with all these pimples
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Old 05-24-2006, 10:31 AM   #39 (permalink)
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I use a Gillette - Mach 3 Turbo - It's good stuff. I generally wash my face with a pre-shave lotion (I think it's Neutrogena - It exfoliates the skin and all that) and then shave in the shower when I'm at school, but when I'm at home I hop out and shave. Generally I shave down and don't worry about it unless I've got a date or I need to look really nice and I'll go both ways and sometimes across just for good measure.

Depending on whether I shaved up or not depends on whether I use lotion afterwards. When I just shave down it's not close enough and it irritates my skin when I rub on lotion.
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Old 05-24-2006, 10:56 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Radiospank,

Did you shave with or against the grain. What you described is what happens to me when I shave against the way the hair grows. If I am careful about going with the pattern of growth I have very little irritation. This has worked for both the Mach3 and the Fusion.
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