Prince

This is pretty basic, but I don't know much about electricity, so I thought I'd double check.

I've a Samsung camcorder. The dumb cat chewed on the adapter's cord, the part that goes from the adapter to the camcorder. He left the cord that goes from the adapter to the outlet in the wall, alone.

Damage as depicted in Image 1:



Can I fix this easily on my own? What risks do I run? Since the cord that's broken is between the adapter and the camcorder, I assume I won't get electrocuted messing with this.

A new adapter is about $70, so... I have a project I am working on, that I need the camcorder for, and cannot charge the batteries without a working adapter. I can't afford a new adapter right now, so I am hoping I can work something out temporarily with that wire...

Anyways the reason I am posting is that I've fixed wires before without a problem, but these 2-layer kind confuse me... I just don't want to fuck something up.

Info about the adapter, in case it matters:

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j8ear

Splicing it back together shouldn't be a problem. Make sure everything is isolated and insulated well with electrical tape after you strip off the sheathing and twist the severed ends...back to together as they were before sharpening your cats teeth.

As far as danger goes...I can't see any danger what so ever if the thing isn't plugged into the wall. This thing probably has a capacitor in it, which can store an electric charge, but leaving it sit for 24 hours should discharge any stored electricity.

I would try this without thinking twice, is what I'm trying to say. Even if I could afford the 70 bucks for a new one.

I'm not an electrician nor a electronics engineer...but still...8.4 volts at 1amp is nothing.

-bear

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cyberhh

This appears to be a simple 2 conductor adaptor. Assuming that this is correct it should be VERY easy to fix.

Strip the wires back a few inches and slip on 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing (one for the center splice and a larger one for the outer shielding (negative or ground side))a bit bigger than your splice will be and splice the center back together using solder to make a secure connection, then use the heat shrink tubing (only on the center wire) to seal the center off from the outer layer. Then repeat for the outer shelding. Because the outer part will be difficult to solder I would advise using aluminum foil with the conductive side out (you can test for this side using a volt meter that tests for resistance and look for 0 ohms) wrapped on the outside of the center (now sealed) wire then lay the outer strands over the foil - the point bieng that a good connection is made between the 2 sides of the shield (strands) while using the foil as insurance.) Then use the heat shrink tubing to complete the clean-up.

Use a meter to test as much as you can (understanding that it will not be easy with the adaptor in the way) will help from having to do it all over.

Sorry if this is confusing, I hope it helps. This is actually really simple to do, but done correctly will still look very good and professional. All the parts are about $2 for the solder and heat shrink tubing. A soldering iron is $10, the heat shrink tubing can be activated (shrunk) with a good hair dryer or a lighter (be careful with the lighter).

Good luck.

flat5

I would not advise the foil. It would be an intermitant connection at best.

The shields will solder well if everything is clean and already "tinned".
If they don't reach each other just add another piece of wire.

The easiest way to make the cord strong is to tie a slip knot around the splice. Is that clear?

Also, Google "good soldering practices".

Use a reasonable quality iron of the correct wattage for the job.
 Only use "electronic" resin cored solder of fine gauge.
 Make sure all surfaces to be soldered are "bright, shiny" and thoroughly clean.
 If a mechanical joint, make sure it can "stand alone" before soldering.
 Make sure the solder tip is clean, shiny and properly "wetted".
 Remember the soldering iron tip is only to heat up the surfaces to be soldered.
 Apply the resin cored solder to the heated "job", not to the soldering iron tip.
 Remember to visually inspect ALL of your soldered joints, preferably with magnifying glasses.
 Consider using your multimeter to provide an "electrical continuity" check between various parts of the circuit.

sashime76

If you have aligator clips (two sets), you can test it out rather easily. Clip first set to the white wire shown in your pictures, second set to the black. If that works you can just solder them and use electrical tape / heat shrink so it becomes one solid cord again.