02-22-2005, 02:20 AM | #1 (permalink) |
Upright
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How to build a deck
I promised my wife a couple of years ago that I would build a deck on the side of the house. This year, I'm out of excuses. I want to do it myself, but I don't want to screw it up. I'm looking at doing a basic 20' x 24' ground level deck that's anchored up against the side of the house. Anyone got some suggestions or tips?
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02-22-2005, 02:29 AM | #2 (permalink) |
All important elusive independent swing voter...
Location: People's Republic of KKKalifornia
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Have you checked out Home Depot or Lowes? They have free seminars/classes on Deck Building and a whole myriad of other projects. Check it out. YOu can even check online I think.
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02-22-2005, 07:58 PM | #3 (permalink) |
Psycho
Location: Where the night things are
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I'll try to keep this short. First is the new wood. It used to be CCA or chromated copper arsenate, but that was toxic and evil so it was replaced with ACQ or alkaline copper quaternary which is supposed to be more enviro-friendly, but it isn't fastener friendly. So, you need to avoid contact with aluminum siding, and make sure that the engineered lumber hangers and nails used are rated for ACQ.
Flashing of the ledger board to the house connection is extremely important, as is the mechanical means of fastening to the rim or band joist. Flashing failures can lead to early failure of the rim or band joist via rot, as well as weakening to the point of connection failure, in which case the deck is overcome by gravity. Improper connection to the rim or band joist is also a gravity overdose waiting to happen. If you're planning to use one of the new pseudo-woods for the walking surface, be sure to read the information about spans and spacing, or the finished project will look like crap and need to be redone. I've seen some weekend warrior projects that turned out that way. Also, plan carefully the design based on what you plan to have on the deck once you're finished. A deck built for ordinary loads doesn't cut it a few years down the road when you decide to add a hot tub. Get permits and make sure the project is signed off by the building inspector. If there is a failure and someone gets hurt, you're going to get sued anyway-my point is that an inspected assembly that met applicable building code will go a way to minimize your liability as opposed to something that was engineered by SWAG and never saw a building inspector.
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02-24-2005, 07:41 AM | #4 (permalink) |
Tilted
Location: You'd never guess..
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You'll need to dig post footings and have them inspected before you fill them with concrete. You'll have to check for code in your area - here, it's 42" deep. Then, fill them with concrete and use a mag to level off the top, so you have a support base.
With a 20' x 24' deck, I'd plan on using two beams even with the ledger board. I would advise constructing your beams with your posts running through the beams (ie: sandwhiched in the middle) and not with the beam resting on top. You may have to install your beams first if your deck will be pretty low to the ground, so shooting heights with a transit would be your best option if you have one available. What type of material are you looking to use for the deck? Normal PT lumber, or something like a Trex pkg? We've used both, but most decks we build are from standard PT lumber. We build them a little more heavy-duty than most, so let me know in more detail what you're aiming to do and I can offer more suggestions. |
02-24-2005, 11:36 AM | #5 (permalink) |
Addict
Location: Hoosier State
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I go to Diynet.com a lot, they might even have a deck building "kit" available. Before you start digging, have the utility companies come out and mark the lines - water, gas, electricity, CATV, etc. Of course, if you live in a community governed by an association, get it approved first!!
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02-24-2005, 11:36 AM | #6 (permalink) |
"Officer, I was in fear for my life"
Location: Oklahoma City
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A lot of your qestions can probably be answered by researching the materials and how tos. Check out http://www.decks.com for more information.
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02-24-2005, 06:23 PM | #7 (permalink) |
Mine is an evil laugh
Location: Sydney, Australia
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I saw this invention on TV:
program link It connects the deck surface to the supports from below, rather than nailing through the deck. I thought it looked cool, and really easy to install. Plus the inventor is an Aussie, so that has to be worth something
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02-25-2005, 08:52 AM | #8 (permalink) |
Addict
Location: Hoosier State
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Found something here that might be helpful:
http://www.deckplans.com/Howto/Eagan/eagan01.html |
03-02-2005, 03:27 PM | #9 (permalink) |
Psycho
Location: MD
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all i can say, is use screws that way if u have to replace boards, you can get money at a local place or something for your extra and even bad lumber. PLus it's easier to take out.
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03-23-2005, 07:28 AM | #11 (permalink) |
Psycho
Location: Cow Country, CT
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All i have to say i home depot pro desk.... They will hold your hand and dance with you if you want a deck. Every home depot prodesk is always trying to make sales numbers large enough to stay around, a deck as large as you said is about $1000 sale, so they will love you long time for coming to them. They can lay it out for you, generate a materials list for you, and give you scale drawings to fallow. Decks are an easy project, you can be a little sloppy and still end up with a great finished result. By the way, you can order all your deck supplies through depot and have them delivered, if they try to charge you for delivery give them something like lowes dosnt charge, and that might get you free delivery.
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build, deck |
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