How to fix a sink - Tilted Forum Project Discussion Community

skier · 08-20-2004, 02:05 PM

I'm having problems with my sink renovation project.

About a week ago my bathroom sink broke (the pipe corroded right through in the trap so it just snapped) but I was too busy with stuff to attend to it. I wanted to do this project myself so i didn't get a plumber. Now i've bought the stuff, and have taken apart the piping for most of the sink. My problem is that the drainage pipe (that goes into the waste pipe) is welded directly to it. how the hell am I supposed to replace the pipe without getting some sort of crazy welding kit? my house is so screwy. I can't use the pipe itself because it is so corroded. Should I give up and get a plumber?

scout · 08-20-2004, 04:21 PM

Ok, starting from the bottum of the sink, the tailpiece goes down into the J trap and is connected there with a compression fitting, meaning there's a nut and a plastic washer to take up the space and prevent leaks. The J trap hooks to the waste pipe and the waste pipe goes inside the pipe sticking out of the wall. All connections should have some sort of a plastic or brass compression fitting that squeeze the plastic washer around/into to leaks.

If there is some sort of brazing required then yes I advise calling a plumber.

kazoo · 08-20-2004, 07:47 PM

scout is close. The tailpiece exits the basin and may or not contain a pop-up drain assembly. The tailpiece will connect to a part called a J-bend with slip nuts and slip washers. Yes, those washers may be plastic-I throw them away and use neoprene. The J-bend connects to a wall pipe if it is a P trap, and to a floor pipe if it is an S-trap. Piping is usually plastic DWV grade (drain waste vent), or copper in older dwellings. Nobody brazes plumbing. It is either soldered, or slip fitted.

scout · 08-21-2004, 02:08 AM

HAHA I'm a hvac-r man not a plumber, I know just enough about it to fix my own shit and to be dangerous when I fix someone else's LOL. Thanks for keeping me on the straight and narrow .

james t kirk · 08-21-2004, 12:46 PM

Sounds to me like you need to remove and replace everything from the drain opening in the sink to the pipe in the wall.

Can you post some photos on here for us to see?

james t kirk · 08-21-2004, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kazoo

scout is close. The tailpiece exits the basin and may or not contain a pop-up drain assembly. The tailpiece will connect to a part called a J-bend with slip nuts and slip washers. Yes, those washers may be plastic-I throw them away and use neoprene. The J-bend connects to a wall pipe if it is a P trap, and to a floor pipe if it is an S-trap. Piping is usually plastic DWV grade (drain waste vent), or copper in older dwellings. Nobody brazes plumbing. It is either soldered, or slip fitted.

It could be really old and be lead, in which case it is soldered as well.

My place had all cast iron drains which was great stuff, but I had to take it all out to redo my bathroom. Replaced with ABS, which fine and dandy, but noisy.

Nothing is as quiet as cast iron.

Ashton · 08-25-2004, 03:17 PM

If it is cast iron you can use a chisel to knock the bell end off the pipe and then use a rubber fitting to connect the new pipe to the old, it simply clamps on using hose clamps

I had to do this when replacing the sewer pipes in my house.

08-20-2004, 02:05 PM	#1 (permalink)
skier Rawr! Location: Edmontania	How to fix a sink I'm having problems with my sink renovation project. About a week ago my bathroom sink broke (the pipe corroded right through in the trap so it just snapped) but I was too busy with stuff to attend to it. I wanted to do this project myself so i didn't get a plumber. Now i've bought the stuff, and have taken apart the piping for most of the sink. My problem is that the drainage pipe (that goes into the waste pipe) is welded directly to it. how the hell am I supposed to replace the pipe without getting some sort of crazy welding kit? my house is so screwy. I can't use the pipe itself because it is so corroded. Should I give up and get a plumber? __________________ "Asking a bomb squad if an old bomb is still "real" is not the best thing to do if you want to save it." - denim Last edited by skier; 08-20-2004 at 02:44 PM.. Reason: I'm dumb.

08-20-2004, 07:47 PM	#3 (permalink)
kazoo Psycho Location: Where the night things are	scout is close. The tailpiece exits the basin and may or not contain a pop-up drain assembly. The tailpiece will connect to a part called a J-bend with slip nuts and slip washers. Yes, those washers may be plastic-I throw them away and use neoprene. The J-bend connects to a wall pipe if it is a P trap, and to a floor pipe if it is an S-trap. Piping is usually plastic DWV grade (drain waste vent), or copper in older dwellings. Nobody brazes plumbing. It is either soldered, or slip fitted. __________________ There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy

08-20-2004, 04:21 PM	#2 (permalink)
scout Psycho	Ok, starting from the bottum of the sink, the tailpiece goes down into the J trap and is connected there with a compression fitting, meaning there's a nut and a plastic washer to take up the space and prevent leaks. The J trap hooks to the waste pipe and the waste pipe goes inside the pipe sticking out of the wall. All connections should have some sort of a plastic or brass compression fitting that squeeze the plastic washer around/into to leaks. If there is some sort of brazing required then yes I advise calling a plumber.

08-21-2004, 02:08 AM	#4 (permalink)
scout Psycho	HAHA I'm a hvac-r man not a plumber, I know just enough about it to fix my own shit and to be dangerous when I fix someone else's LOL. Thanks for keeping me on the straight and narrow .

08-21-2004, 12:46 PM	#5 (permalink)
james t kirk Junkie Location: Toronto	Sounds to me like you need to remove and replace everything from the drain opening in the sink to the pipe in the wall. Can you post some photos on here for us to see?

08-25-2004, 03:17 PM	#7 (permalink)
Ashton PORNHOUND Location: California	If it is cast iron you can use a chisel to knock the bell end off the pipe and then use a rubber fitting to connect the new pipe to the old, it simply clamps on using hose clamps I had to do this when replacing the sewer pipes in my house.