Router Jig - Tilted Forum Project Discussion Community

Sika2 · 08-07-2004, 12:10 AM

Anyone able to help? I need to rout some 45 degree cuts on two side boards to slot additional boards into, making a louvre type screen. The routed cuts need to be the same angle and the same distance apart on the two boards. (probably need to make around 14 cuts in each board. There must be a jig I can set up to achieve this? Hope this is clear enough. Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanx

kazoo · 08-07-2004, 08:19 AM

Routing this, even with a jig is a daunting proposal, IMHO. Assuming you're going to paint this assembly, I'd suggest this instead: Take side rails for the screen panel and using a dado (table saw) or router table, remove 1/4" deep x 1/2" wide from the edge to receive the louvers-both sides. Then set the dual rabbeted edges face up and scribe the lines for louvers. Using a radial arm saw with a hollow ground planer blade, cut the louver kerfs at your chosen angle in the edges. Then, assemble your frame with top, bottom, and middle rails, and glue 1/4" x 1/2" filler stock on one side to replace what was rabbeted in the first step.
Flip the whole thing over, slide in the louvers, and install filler strips as previously described. Sand and paint.

That's my best shot, as the CNC milling machines which perform these tasks for door builders are beyond the pocket of mere mortals as you and me.

fhqwhgads · 08-07-2004, 08:44 AM

Sika2- I've seen a jig like this on New Yankee Workshop, but I haven't yet been able to find a copy of it on the net. I could describe the general concept to you, but it's been quite awhile since I've seen the episode. I'll keep looking and post it if I find it.

Bossnass · 08-07-2004, 09:58 AM

I seem to remember Norm doing this too.

Maybe try heading over to Wood Online, they have a bunch of forums full of helpfull woodworkers.

Sika2 · 08-11-2004, 12:13 AM

Thanks for your thoughts. I shall continue my search and try some trial and error setups.

tropple · 08-11-2004, 03:35 AM

You can get the plans for the jig from Norm's website.
Plans only, $10.95
Vid & measured drawing $24.95

http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct3.cgi?9905

It looked darned easy to make, but I can't remember how he did it, either.

Edit:

I found a picture of it on the wood butcher's site.

http://woodbutcher.net/images/normstools/louver-jig.htm

It's not pretty, but the best I could find. I wish I'd taped that episode.

jbrooks544 · 08-17-2004, 06:13 AM

Norm probably uses some sort of collar on the router base plate that fits into the guide holes on his jig. I never bought one of these fancy collars, so I just take a piece of plywood and cut a decent size hole in the middle to allow the router bit to have room to travel. I then screw pieces of wood in parallel on to the piece of plywood to guide the router base plate. Have them be the same width apart as the max width of the plate. So, now you have a piece of plywood, about a foot wide by two feet long with a 4" X 1" slot in the middle for bit travel and two rails that allow the router to travel longitudinally. Next, you figure how long your cuts will be. Then, you screw pieces of wood across the jig, between the rails, to act as stops (router base plate would bump into them to stop travel). If your plunge is 2" long then the stops at each end allow the router to only travel a total of 2". Next, you have to screw some 2x4's - or similar type stock - on edge, to your workbench. These will create a channel for your finish piece to travel between and for your jig to be screwed to the top of. I would space them apart about the same distance as the width of the finish piece. If you are routing 1" thick stock on edge then the 2x's should be 1" apart (a tad more to allow the stock to slide between). 2x4's will work if the piece you are routing is 3.5" wide. If the pieces are 2.5" wide then you would need to rip the 2x4's to that width before mounting them. Have a couple other 2x's ripped to same width to mount to bench about 10" to either side, to help support the plywood jig piece that is attached above. Screw the jig made earlier on top of your 2x's at the angle that you want your cuts made. Practice on scrap to get adjustment correct. To space out each cut you can either just have them laid out in pencil and/or drill a hole through the plywood that you can push a dowel stop through. If cuts are 2" apart then the dowel stop hole would be two inches away from the router bit center and the dowel would be pushed down into the previous cut. You may need two holes, one for each end of the previous cut. After each plunge cut, you pull the dowel(s), slide the piece, and push the dowel(s) into the cut you just made. You could have this jig made in about 15 minutes and the job done within about 45 mins. max. Hope this helped, have fun!

08-07-2004, 12:10 AM	#1 (permalink)
Sika2 Upright	Router Jig Anyone able to help? I need to rout some 45 degree cuts on two side boards to slot additional boards into, making a louvre type screen. The routed cuts need to be the same angle and the same distance apart on the two boards. (probably need to make around 14 cuts in each board. There must be a jig I can set up to achieve this? Hope this is clear enough. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanx

08-07-2004, 08:19 AM	#2 (permalink)
kazoo Psycho Location: Where the night things are	Routing this, even with a jig is a daunting proposal, IMHO. Assuming you're going to paint this assembly, I'd suggest this instead: Take side rails for the screen panel and using a dado (table saw) or router table, remove 1/4" deep x 1/2" wide from the edge to receive the louvers-both sides. Then set the dual rabbeted edges face up and scribe the lines for louvers. Using a radial arm saw with a hollow ground planer blade, cut the louver kerfs at your chosen angle in the edges. Then, assemble your frame with top, bottom, and middle rails, and glue 1/4" x 1/2" filler stock on one side to replace what was rabbeted in the first step. Flip the whole thing over, slide in the louvers, and install filler strips as previously described. Sand and paint. That's my best shot, as the CNC milling machines which perform these tasks for door builders are beyond the pocket of mere mortals as you and me. __________________ There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy

08-11-2004, 03:35 AM	#6 (permalink)
tropple Junkie	You can get the plans for the jig from Norm's website. Plans only, $10.95 Vid & measured drawing $24.95 http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct3.cgi?9905 It looked darned easy to make, but I can't remember how he did it, either. Edit: I found a picture of it on the wood butcher's site. http://woodbutcher.net/images/normstools/louver-jig.htm It's not pretty, but the best I could find. I wish I'd taped that episode. __________________ +++++++++++Boom! Last edited by tropple; 08-11-2004 at 08:41 AM..

08-07-2004, 08:44 AM	#3 (permalink)
fhqwhgads Junkie	Sika2- I've seen a jig like this on New Yankee Workshop, but I haven't yet been able to find a copy of it on the net. I could describe the general concept to you, but it's been quite awhile since I've seen the episode. I'll keep looking and post it if I find it.

08-07-2004, 09:58 AM	#4 (permalink)
Bossnass Détente Location: AWOL in Edmonton	I seem to remember Norm doing this too. Maybe try heading over to Wood Online, they have a bunch of forums full of helpfull woodworkers.

08-11-2004, 12:13 AM	#5 (permalink)
Sika2 Upright	Thanks for your thoughts. I shall continue my search and try some trial and error setups.

08-17-2004, 06:13 AM	#7 (permalink)
jbrooks544 Addict	Norm probably uses some sort of collar on the router base plate that fits into the guide holes on his jig. I never bought one of these fancy collars, so I just take a piece of plywood and cut a decent size hole in the middle to allow the router bit to have room to travel. I then screw pieces of wood in parallel on to the piece of plywood to guide the router base plate. Have them be the same width apart as the max width of the plate. So, now you have a piece of plywood, about a foot wide by two feet long with a 4" X 1" slot in the middle for bit travel and two rails that allow the router to travel longitudinally. Next, you figure how long your cuts will be. Then, you screw pieces of wood across the jig, between the rails, to act as stops (router base plate would bump into them to stop travel). If your plunge is 2" long then the stops at each end allow the router to only travel a total of 2". Next, you have to screw some 2x4's - or similar type stock - on edge, to your workbench. These will create a channel for your finish piece to travel between and for your jig to be screwed to the top of. I would space them apart about the same distance as the width of the finish piece. If you are routing 1" thick stock on edge then the 2x's should be 1" apart (a tad more to allow the stock to slide between). 2x4's will work if the piece you are routing is 3.5" wide. If the pieces are 2.5" wide then you would need to rip the 2x4's to that width before mounting them. Have a couple other 2x's ripped to same width to mount to bench about 10" to either side, to help support the plywood jig piece that is attached above. Screw the jig made earlier on top of your 2x's at the angle that you want your cuts made. Practice on scrap to get adjustment correct. To space out each cut you can either just have them laid out in pencil and/or drill a hole through the plywood that you can push a dowel stop through. If cuts are 2" apart then the dowel stop hole would be two inches away from the router bit center and the dowel would be pushed down into the previous cut. You may need two holes, one for each end of the previous cut. After each plunge cut, you pull the dowel(s), slide the piece, and push the dowel(s) into the cut you just made. You could have this jig made in about 15 minutes and the job done within about 45 mins. max. Hope this helped, have fun!