clothes dryer not producing heat - Tilted Forum Project Discussion Community

canuckguy · 05-02-2004, 03:34 PM

Was doing up some laundry tonight (exciting i now!) and discovered my kenmore dryer has stopped making any heat. The tumbler still goes and it is moving air about, but with out any heat. I tried all various settings on it...etc leaving it on for good length of time and unplugging it still with no results. Looks to this novice that the heating coil is gone. The dryer is fairly old so its not under warranty, so does anyone have any ideas what this repair might cost if I call in a repair person? Or would it just be cheaper in the long run to get a new dryer? any suggestions would be appreciated.

and i thought it would nice to save some money this weekend by staying in! not!

kazoo · 05-02-2004, 03:46 PM

More than one component could be at fault. Does it produce heat in the delicate or low heat setting? This is often a midpoint tap which uses only half of the total heating coil. Also, there is a high safety thermostat, which won't allow any heat if it checks out. The limit thermostat(s), when activated by respective high drum heat, cause the timer to advance while cutting off current to the heating element. The inter-relation of the two means that further diagnostics is needed. Parts are relatively inexpensive and you can do a lot of rebuiliding on an old Kenmore before the cost of a new dryer is reached. I've got a pair in my basement, and they have been good to me.

canuckguy · 05-02-2004, 04:32 PM

cheers for the info, I'm gonna call a service tech tomorrow and have him take a boo at it. thanks again.

MSD · 05-02-2004, 07:14 PM

If you take off the control console, instructions (including troubleshooting) should be in there. First thing to check is heating coil, followed by thermal fuse. After those, the heat setting knob is connected to a relyay that should be checked. Next, check the high-limit thermostat, then the low-limit. After all of that, check the heating coil and thremal fuse again, finding that one of htem was the problem in the first place, call your local hardware store with the part number, have them special-order it, kick yourself, and have a beer.

canuckguy · 05-03-2004, 03:22 PM

i grabbed the beer, after a hour or two fussing about, I called a repairman. should be by tomorrow after I get home from work. yes look away, i feel shame

kazoo · 05-03-2004, 09:31 PM

I thought you hockey types were more manly!

canuckguy · 05-04-2004, 11:15 AM

sorry to disappoint.

canuckguy · 05-04-2004, 11:57 AM

hey i think I might have found the problem, anyone willing to have me email them a pic of my dryer of what i think is the issue, found one part on the back that will not pass continuity. according this pic http://repair2000.com/dryerback.html it more or less looks like the thermostat.

oh and the repair dude on the phone was rude so i thought i would take a lookie myself.

here is the link to the device not passing a signal
http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/cgi...7134&brand=WPL

kazoo · 05-04-2004, 02:33 PM

If the cycling thermostat isn't showing continuity, then you've found your problem. The online price from the second link is good.

While you have the cabinet open, take your vacuum and suck up all the lint you can see, as doing so may preclude a future fire.

canuckguy · 05-04-2004, 03:53 PM

cheers done (the cleaning part), not sure where i could buy one of these in my town, so i am just going to order it off this site. thanks again to everyone for all your info!

canuckguy · 05-05-2004, 11:29 AM

alright a little update, got the new thermostat today, 30$ bucks no refundable. so you know where I am going with this. dryers still does not produce any heat. fuck it, i am erecting a clothes line in the backyard!

Peetster · 05-05-2004, 11:38 AM

Don't give up. If the component was testing faulty, and replacing it didn't fix the problem, you've just got another problem.

Go through the troubleshooting steps again. I'll bet something else shows bad.

You're still gonna be ahead of calling a repairman. Have two beers this time.

canuckguy · 05-05-2004, 11:59 AM

thanks for the encouraging words, i need them at this point! see the two copper connectors in the middle, http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/cgi...7134&brand=WPL

they don't pass a current on my old part so i assume that it was not the defective part, but it does not pass anything on the new part either so i guess its not supposed to, the silver end pieces do though, on both the old and the new.

james t kirk · 05-05-2004, 07:26 PM

UMMM, very very simple solution.

A fuse is blown. Assuming you have fuses and not breakers.

In the old style fuse panels, one phase provides the electricity to run the motor, the other phase provides the electricity to run the element.

A drier uses 2 fuses. One to the red wire, one to the black wire. It could simply be that one fuse (out of the two) has blown. The drier will still turn, but no juice for the heat.

Check the fuses.

If breakers, it could be one breaker is defective (of the two) is defective. Get a volt meter, put the neutral in the neutral side of the plug, then check the two hot sides.

You should read 120 volts on each side. If not, you have a defective breaker.

Sounds like the problem to me.

salut

canuckguy · 05-06-2004, 12:32 PM

thanks for the info, tried that , no go. i think the heating coil is shot, it still passes continuity but it still could be fried. on a side note I did put up a new clothes line after work today.

james t kirk · 05-07-2004, 04:06 PM

Time for a new drier. You can buy a cheap one for 400 bucks.

kazoo · 05-07-2004, 07:46 PM

From what I've read, the cycling thermostat is indeed good. If you have access to a VOM and have checked continuity in the heating element, I'm stumped. Have you checked the high and low elements separately? Have you (the real bugger) attached your test meter to the heater leads and tried the dryer to see if 240 VAC is being supplied to the heater?

Figuring it out can be a stinker.

This is why appliance repair technicians earn their $, and you ought not to bitch.

canuckguy · 05-08-2004, 02:56 AM

everything on the dryer does check out, I think the coil has just seen its last day. The only bright spot was that we used it very little, I only used it for towels and linens. everything else always got hung up to dry (yes i am that cheap, hydro is expensive nowadays eh!). Have a friend who's dad is a super for a townhouse complex, he is going to get me dryer for 50 bucks delievered. sold! thanks again for everyone help!

b_angelo · 05-26-2004, 05:00 PM

i'm sorry, but this sounds to me like the heating element is out. Its really simple to change and only relatively inexpensive. all you do is unplug the 2 wires to the old ,uninstall it a reverse the process to reinstall. I've replaced several in my day and 9 out of 10 times if theres no heat..then its the element. If this has already been suggested and it didnt work then I must have missed that reply.

Vogad · 05-29-2004, 02:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by james t kirk
Time for a new drier. You can buy a cheap one for 400 bucks.

...or a good one (Roper by Whirlpool) for $200 at Best buy!!!

canuckguy · 05-29-2004, 06:50 PM

hehe, indeed i am looking for a new dryer, going to get a set, washer and dryer, better deal for both, thanks again everyone!

05-02-2004, 03:34 PM	#1 (permalink)
canuckguy I read your emails. Location: earth	clothes dryer not producing heat Was doing up some laundry tonight (exciting i now!) and discovered my kenmore dryer has stopped making any heat. The tumbler still goes and it is moving air about, but with out any heat. I tried all various settings on it...etc leaving it on for good length of time and unplugging it still with no results. Looks to this novice that the heating coil is gone. The dryer is fairly old so its not under warranty, so does anyone have any ideas what this repair might cost if I call in a repair person? Or would it just be cheaper in the long run to get a new dryer? any suggestions would be appreciated. and i thought it would nice to save some money this weekend by staying in! not!

05-02-2004, 03:46 PM	#2 (permalink)
kazoo Psycho Location: Where the night things are	More than one component could be at fault. Does it produce heat in the delicate or low heat setting? This is often a midpoint tap which uses only half of the total heating coil. Also, there is a high safety thermostat, which won't allow any heat if it checks out. The limit thermostat(s), when activated by respective high drum heat, cause the timer to advance while cutting off current to the heating element. The inter-relation of the two means that further diagnostics is needed. Parts are relatively inexpensive and you can do a lot of rebuiliding on an old Kenmore before the cost of a new dryer is reached. I've got a pair in my basement, and they have been good to me. __________________ There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy

05-03-2004, 09:31 PM	#6 (permalink)
kazoo Psycho Location: Where the night things are	I thought you hockey types were more manly! __________________ There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy

05-04-2004, 11:57 AM	#8 (permalink)
canuckguy I read your emails. Location: earth	hey i think I might have found the problem, anyone willing to have me email them a pic of my dryer of what i think is the issue, found one part on the back that will not pass continuity. according this pic http://repair2000.com/dryerback.html it more or less looks like the thermostat. oh and the repair dude on the phone was rude so i thought i would take a lookie myself. here is the link to the device not passing a signal http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/cgi...7134&brand=WPL Last edited by canuckguy; 05-04-2004 at 12:13 PM..

05-04-2004, 02:33 PM	#9 (permalink)
kazoo Psycho Location: Where the night things are	If the cycling thermostat isn't showing continuity, then you've found your problem. The online price from the second link is good. While you have the cabinet open, take your vacuum and suck up all the lint you can see, as doing so may preclude a future fire. __________________ There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy

05-02-2004, 04:32 PM	#3 (permalink)
canuckguy I read your emails. Location: earth	cheers for the info, I'm gonna call a service tech tomorrow and have him take a boo at it. thanks again.

05-02-2004, 07:14 PM	#4 (permalink)
MSD The sky calls to us ... Super Moderator Location: CT	If you take off the control console, instructions (including troubleshooting) should be in there. First thing to check is heating coil, followed by thermal fuse. After those, the heat setting knob is connected to a relyay that should be checked. Next, check the high-limit thermostat, then the low-limit. After all of that, check the heating coil and thremal fuse again, finding that one of htem was the problem in the first place, call your local hardware store with the part number, have them special-order it, kick yourself, and have a beer.

05-03-2004, 03:22 PM	#5 (permalink)
canuckguy I read your emails. Location: earth	i grabbed the beer, after a hour or two fussing about, I called a repairman. should be by tomorrow after I get home from work. yes look away, i feel shame

05-04-2004, 11:15 AM	#7 (permalink)
canuckguy I read your emails. Location: earth	sorry to disappoint.

05-04-2004, 03:53 PM	#10 (permalink)
canuckguy I read your emails. Location: earth	cheers done (the cleaning part), not sure where i could buy one of these in my town, so i am just going to order it off this site. thanks again to everyone for all your info!

05-05-2004, 11:29 AM	#11 (permalink)
canuckguy I read your emails. Location: earth	alright a little update, got the new thermostat today, 30$ bucks no refundable. so you know where I am going with this. dryers still does not produce any heat. fuck it, i am erecting a clothes line in the backyard!

05-05-2004, 11:38 AM	#12 (permalink)
Peetster Right Now Location: Home	Don't give up. If the component was testing faulty, and replacing it didn't fix the problem, you've just got another problem. Go through the troubleshooting steps again. I'll bet something else shows bad. You're still gonna be ahead of calling a repairman. Have two beers this time.

05-05-2004, 11:59 AM	#13 (permalink)
canuckguy I read your emails. Location: earth	thanks for the encouraging words, i need them at this point! see the two copper connectors in the middle, http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/cgi...7134&brand=WPL they don't pass a current on my old part so i assume that it was not the defective part, but it does not pass anything on the new part either so i guess its not supposed to, the silver end pieces do though, on both the old and the new.

05-05-2004, 07:26 PM	#14 (permalink)
james t kirk Junkie Location: Toronto	UMMM, very very simple solution. A fuse is blown. Assuming you have fuses and not breakers. In the old style fuse panels, one phase provides the electricity to run the motor, the other phase provides the electricity to run the element. A drier uses 2 fuses. One to the red wire, one to the black wire. It could simply be that one fuse (out of the two) has blown. The drier will still turn, but no juice for the heat. Check the fuses. If breakers, it could be one breaker is defective (of the two) is defective. Get a volt meter, put the neutral in the neutral side of the plug, then check the two hot sides. You should read 120 volts on each side. If not, you have a defective breaker. Sounds like the problem to me. salut Last edited by james t kirk; 05-05-2004 at 07:46 PM..

05-06-2004, 12:32 PM	#15 (permalink)
canuckguy I read your emails. Location: earth	thanks for the info, tried that , no go. i think the heating coil is shot, it still passes continuity but it still could be fried. on a side note I did put up a new clothes line after work today.

05-07-2004, 04:06 PM	#16 (permalink)
james t kirk Junkie Location: Toronto	Time for a new drier. You can buy a cheap one for 400 bucks.

05-07-2004, 07:46 PM	#17 (permalink)
kazoo Psycho Location: Where the night things are	From what I've read, the cycling thermostat is indeed good. If you have access to a VOM and have checked continuity in the heating element, I'm stumped. Have you checked the high and low elements separately? Have you (the real bugger) attached your test meter to the heater leads and tried the dryer to see if 240 VAC is being supplied to the heater? Figuring it out can be a stinker. This is why appliance repair technicians earn their $, and you ought not to bitch. __________________ There ain't nothin' more powerful than the odor of mendacity -Big Daddy

05-08-2004, 02:56 AM	#18 (permalink)
canuckguy I read your emails. Location: earth	everything on the dryer does check out, I think the coil has just seen its last day. The only bright spot was that we used it very little, I only used it for towels and linens. everything else always got hung up to dry (yes i am that cheap, hydro is expensive nowadays eh!). Have a friend who's dad is a super for a townhouse complex, he is going to get me dryer for 50 bucks delievered. sold! thanks again for everyone help!

05-26-2004, 05:00 PM	#19 (permalink)
b_angelo Tilted	i'm sorry, but this sounds to me like the heating element is out. Its really simple to change and only relatively inexpensive. all you do is unplug the 2 wires to the old ,uninstall it a reverse the process to reinstall. I've replaced several in my day and 9 out of 10 times if theres no heat..then its the element. If this has already been suggested and it didnt work then I must have missed that reply.

05-29-2004, 06:50 PM	#21 (permalink)
canuckguy I read your emails. Location: earth	hehe, indeed i am looking for a new dryer, going to get a set, washer and dryer, better deal for both, thanks again everyone!