twan5

Just read fear's topic about putting drywall up and putting a texture on it... Im wanting to create a smooth surface all together...

Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions about what tools I should use (different widths of blades) and if anyone can offer any info about new products out there to make the job any easier... Also, if anyone has technique hints about how to do it right, id love to hear about that too...

Im doing several ceilings and a couple walls.

Thanks!

jonb2serment

One tip....Hire a professional. It will save you time and not cause you a head ache.

twan5

no... not looking to hire a professional. wanting to do it myself. thanks anyways, i guess...

kazoo

Tools-3"knife, 12" knife, you may want an in-betweener. Mud pan.

Mud-green is the wettest, easiest for most folk to use for final coats. Blue is the stiffest, but shrinks much less-making it ideal for the first coat that sets and covers joint tape. USG has introduced a purple grade that's somewhere between blue and green-but i have yet to try it.

Since DIY folk tend to move more slowly than pros, if using paper tape for joints, after you've torn off a piece, soak it in a bucket of water for a few minutes. Take it out and use fingers as a squeegee to remove excess water. Place it in the bedding coat of mud, bed firmly and then coat over top. Wetting beforehand reduces the likelihood that the dry paper will leach moisture from the mud and then disbond.

DIY tip-don't try to work two planes at the same time-you'll never get it right. Do all the vertical seams or all the ceiling-wall joints in separate sessions-not together.

If you want to fast track the project, you can buy dry mix and mix what you need. A big honkin heavy duty drill and a mixing paddle is required for this. The number on the bag, 30, 60, 90, etc. is the time limit for setting, and is not for the faint of heart or those who like to take breaks. I halve the number to be conservative-when using 30, I mix what I can place in 15 minutes.

Rent or buy a water sander so your house doesn't have dust everywhere. Good luck.

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twan5

thank you

james t kirk

You can watch one of the many DIY shows on TV to start. That's how i learned to drywall and i would stack my drywalling against any pro's.

IMHO, i prefer the fibre glass mesh over paper for the joints. It's very easy to work with, it's peel and stick, and it has a lot more strength than any paper.

I tend to give 3 to 4 coats of compound with a light sand between coats till the final sand (I know the pros don't do this.)

For the final sand I get a trouble light and angle it up to the joint to be able to cast different shadows on the joint. It really shows up what needs to be sanded that way and you will get a great result.

Often times you will see joints in DW at different times of the day, but not others because of the differing light in the room. The trouble light trick tends to help you catch any flaws you might not normally see.

Dibbler

I wish I could do it like the pros...they can put up the drywall, mud the first coat, come back the next day, sand, put on second coat, sand and their done!

I tend to mud the joint, wait a day, sand off too much, add more mud, sand it all off, add more mud, sand it all off, etc, etc...takes me forever.

My Uncle had done a lot of it and recommended that I put a good amount on in the first coat and when it's dry he would use a damp spunge to take off larger amounts without any dust.

:::OshnSoul:::

go to a hardware store- they would be able to help you. My husband knows how to do it- I know that you have to have a small, large, and corner applying tool.

Tirian

Here's a little tip that works for me...

I'm no pro, and I know it's gonna take a few sessions to make nice seams, so I do it like this.

1: I use the self adhesive grated tape instead of paper tape, and I put it on all the seams first.

2: Take a 5 or 6" plasic putty knife (blade) and I cut it out in the middle so that if I slide it along some mud, it leaves a nice bead the width of the tape (or a bit wider) and about 1/8" thick.

Using this modified knife, I leave a nice solid bead over all the seams.

3: Once that is dry, I fill in below and above (on a horizontal seam) and feather smooth to the wall.

(Yes this is a two step process where the pros use one, but I find I get a really nice even thickness and width this way)

4: sand down first time.

5: fill any holes/hollows etc.

6: sand second time.

This is usually good for me, unless I see something that still needs to be fixed.

apetaster

Kazoo nailed it. Sponge technique works great for those few with the touch. For mere mortals, plan for lots of sanding and dust. Also, assuming you are going to paint it, I recommend a good quality primer - at very least over the mud (often moisture from the paint gets into the mud and causes air bubbles in the topcoat of paint. Ben Moore makes a good latex primer (FreshStart) and Zinsser makes the best oil primer I have used (Cover Stain.) Both go on thick, are not overpowering in odor and dry super fast.

Acutsef

If you want a really good paint finish I would skim coat the entire drywall. It is only a very thin layer of mud and you can almost see the drywall through the mud, this skim coat gives a very consistant look to it especially if natural light will strike the surface. Joints in drywall stands out like dogs balls in natural light no matter how good you are. All in all though there is some good tips being suggested.
Im just a carpenter so im not that flash at the old drywall mud, any pros here.

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