Mold You Own Penis! - Tilted Forum Project Discussion Community

bukaki22 · 12-10-2003, 01:00 PM

Making a replica of your penis.
This document describes how to make an accurate replica of your penis. Most of the information contained here is standard molding technology, however copying of the penis presents some unique problems which I will discuss here.

Before I start, there are some safety issues I want to discuss. Powdered mold materials such as plaster and alginate should be handled carefully and used with care so as not to inhale any of the dust these products create. Casting materials such as casting resin are very hazardous materials, and should be set in a well ventilated area (like, outside) and all efforts should be made to avoid contact with skin or inhaling the vapors these products create.

Overview
The basic casting process involves making a negative of the penis using an alginate casting agent such as mix-a-mold or dental alginate. A plaster positive is then made, and a latex rubber mold is made from the positive. The rubber mold is then used to fabricate the silicone positive.

Required Materials
1 package mix-a-mold alginate casting compound.
1 plastic report cover
Packing tape.
1 short length latex rubber tubing
Plaster of paris (powder)
Disposable mixing containers
Disposable stir rods.
White Glue
9x9 inch cardboard box pieces
Cardboard box
Latex rubber mold making compound
Acrylic painting medium.
Mold release agent.
Water
Corn starch
2 litre pop container with top cut off
Old paint brushes
two part RTV silicone
vibrator
Making the plaster positive.
This is in many ways the most difficult part of the process, as it involves maintaining an erection while your penis is held still in wet alginate. The mold must be carefully made so that there are no voids (air bubbles) trapped in the structure of the mold. Here is a summary of the process.

The first step is to make a tube from the report cover which has about 1/4 to 3/4 of an inch greater size than your erect penis. The idea of this is to have an open tube into which the mold material can be poured, but tight enough so that it can be push over the balls to form a tight enough seal that not too much of the mold making alginate can escape. Once the tube is the right size, tape it so that it won't unroll, but the top and bottom are still open. The tube should be a couple of inches longer than the penis, so that there will be a gap between the head of the penis and the top of the tube.

Measure the required amount of alginate into a mixing bowl, and put enough water in a glass to make the thickest, fastest setting formula. Get an erection (You do want to make a copy of your erect penis, don't you?) then tie the latex hose around the base of the penis below the balls. Don't tie it too tight - you don't want to completely cut off the circulation to your penis. Mix the alginate carefully, then place the tube over your penis, then pour the alginate in the top of the tube, working the tube up and down slightly to get rid of air bubbles. You should do this in an area where it has tiled floor, not carpet. After 2 or 3 minutes, remove the latex hose from your penis, and "shrink" out of the mold.

Mix the plaster carefully, and then pour the plaster into the mold, making sure to eliminate as many air bubbles as possible. Since the mold is so deep, you will have to pay careful attention to this. Using the vibrator on the outside of the mold will make some of the bubbles come out, but there is still no substitute for careful pouring. Let the plaster set.

Making the latex negative
After the plaster is set, remove the plaster positive from the alginate. You will probably have to destroy the alginate mold in the process, but this isn't too bad as it is no longer required. Inspect the positive, use a file to remove defects caused by voids in the alginate, and fill (using something like polyfilla) voids in the plaster. If you were careful in the casting process, this should not be a problem. Cut the base of the positive so that it will sit flat (you can cut it later if you so desire). Allow the plaster to dry fully.

Carefully paint your plaster positive with acrylic medium - a very thin coat. The idea of this is to make the surface smooth, and to cover microscopic bubbles which were in the plaster.

After the plaster penis is dry, glue the base to the middle of the cardboard, and let it dry. Pour some of the latex molding compound into a disposable container, and then paint a thin layer of latex onto the plaster positive, the base, and an area about two to three inches all around the base. This is important, as this part will be used to support the mold during the final casting process. Let the mold dry for about 24 hours, and paint on another coat. For a mold this size, if you want to create a faithful reproduction, you will require about 10 coats. More coats will make the mold more rigid, thus enabling you to make more accurate reproductions. I should mention that you should use an OLD brush (no Winsor and Newton sable brushes) and clean everything up immediately after each application of the rubber.

Once you have decided you have enough coats on your model, coat the outside with corn starch, so that the rubber won't stick to itself. Carefully peel the rubber mold from the plaster penis. You should now have a latex negative of your penis.

Making a silicone positive
Cut a hole in the cardboard box just large enough for the mold to go through, and tape the mold to the box. Spray the inside of your mold with mold release agent. Mix the silicone (carefully, so as not to create too many bubbles) and pour it into the mold. If you use the vibrator on the outside of the mold, it will make the bubbles rise to the top thus improving the quality of the copy. The weight of the silicone will make the mold bulge somewhat thus distorting the copy - if you want to make an accurate copy, immerse the mold in water after filling the mold with the silicone - the pressure on the outside will equalize the pressure on the inside so less distortion will occur. Wait for 24 hours, then peel the rubber mold from the replica. Unless you have used medical grade silicone in the manufacturing of your replica, don't use it as a dildo without a condom. When using such toys, a condom is a good idea anyway, since it makes cleanup easier. Once you're done, give it to your wife for when you're not around.

clavus · 12-10-2003, 01:27 PM

Someone already did this sort of thing for me. It wasn't a mold, per se, but it was actual size:

Redlemon · 12-10-2003, 02:20 PM

Here's a link to a very funny first-hand account of using the Create-A-Mate penis molding kit. Some good advice that would blend in with your writeup.

(not reposted here, because the pictures are kind of important to go with the text)

Redlemon · 12-10-2003, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by clavus
Someone already did this sort of thing for me. It wasn't a mold, per se, but it was actual size:

Hold on, let me get my ruler... yup, 3.75 inches on my monitor, just as I suspected.

nirol · 12-10-2003, 04:19 PM

jwoody · 12-11-2003, 04:15 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by nirol
Why?

It would make a great christmas present for your gran.

mtsgsd · 12-11-2003, 08:14 AM

LOL. Reminds me of a night at a girlfriends home long ago. Her older sister came into the family room (full of family) to show the penis her and her boyfriend had just made in her bedroom using one of these kits. Lets see, the girlfriend was 19 or 20 at the time, and her sister was a year older. Everyone thought it was cool.

Strange family.

la petite moi · 12-13-2003, 06:51 PM

OMG HAHAHAHA.

Baldrick · 12-13-2003, 07:32 PM

You lost me at:

Quote:

2 litre pop container with top cut off

clavus · 12-13-2003, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by redlemon
Hold on, let me get my ruler... yup, 3.75 inches on my monitor, just as I suspected.

Yah, but some girls like them that thick...Oh, wait. You mean...? OUCH.

12-10-2003, 01:00 PM	#1 (permalink)
bukaki22 Tilted	Mold Your Own Penis! Making a replica of your penis. This document describes how to make an accurate replica of your penis. Most of the information contained here is standard molding technology, however copying of the penis presents some unique problems which I will discuss here. Before I start, there are some safety issues I want to discuss. Powdered mold materials such as plaster and alginate should be handled carefully and used with care so as not to inhale any of the dust these products create. Casting materials such as casting resin are very hazardous materials, and should be set in a well ventilated area (like, outside) and all efforts should be made to avoid contact with skin or inhaling the vapors these products create. Overview The basic casting process involves making a negative of the penis using an alginate casting agent such as mix-a-mold or dental alginate. A plaster positive is then made, and a latex rubber mold is made from the positive. The rubber mold is then used to fabricate the silicone positive. Required Materials 1 package mix-a-mold alginate casting compound. 1 plastic report cover Packing tape. 1 short length latex rubber tubing Plaster of paris (powder) Disposable mixing containers Disposable stir rods. White Glue 9x9 inch cardboard box pieces Cardboard box Latex rubber mold making compound Acrylic painting medium. Mold release agent. Water Corn starch 2 litre pop container with top cut off Old paint brushes two part RTV silicone vibrator Making the plaster positive. This is in many ways the most difficult part of the process, as it involves maintaining an erection while your penis is held still in wet alginate. The mold must be carefully made so that there are no voids (air bubbles) trapped in the structure of the mold. Here is a summary of the process. The first step is to make a tube from the report cover which has about 1/4 to 3/4 of an inch greater size than your erect penis. The idea of this is to have an open tube into which the mold material can be poured, but tight enough so that it can be push over the balls to form a tight enough seal that not too much of the mold making alginate can escape. Once the tube is the right size, tape it so that it won't unroll, but the top and bottom are still open. The tube should be a couple of inches longer than the penis, so that there will be a gap between the head of the penis and the top of the tube. Measure the required amount of alginate into a mixing bowl, and put enough water in a glass to make the thickest, fastest setting formula. Get an erection (You do want to make a copy of your erect penis, don't you?) then tie the latex hose around the base of the penis below the balls. Don't tie it too tight - you don't want to completely cut off the circulation to your penis. Mix the alginate carefully, then place the tube over your penis, then pour the alginate in the top of the tube, working the tube up and down slightly to get rid of air bubbles. You should do this in an area where it has tiled floor, not carpet. After 2 or 3 minutes, remove the latex hose from your penis, and "shrink" out of the mold. Mix the plaster carefully, and then pour the plaster into the mold, making sure to eliminate as many air bubbles as possible. Since the mold is so deep, you will have to pay careful attention to this. Using the vibrator on the outside of the mold will make some of the bubbles come out, but there is still no substitute for careful pouring. Let the plaster set. Making the latex negative After the plaster is set, remove the plaster positive from the alginate. You will probably have to destroy the alginate mold in the process, but this isn't too bad as it is no longer required. Inspect the positive, use a file to remove defects caused by voids in the alginate, and fill (using something like polyfilla) voids in the plaster. If you were careful in the casting process, this should not be a problem. Cut the base of the positive so that it will sit flat (you can cut it later if you so desire). Allow the plaster to dry fully. Carefully paint your plaster positive with acrylic medium - a very thin coat. The idea of this is to make the surface smooth, and to cover microscopic bubbles which were in the plaster. After the plaster penis is dry, glue the base to the middle of the cardboard, and let it dry. Pour some of the latex molding compound into a disposable container, and then paint a thin layer of latex onto the plaster positive, the base, and an area about two to three inches all around the base. This is important, as this part will be used to support the mold during the final casting process. Let the mold dry for about 24 hours, and paint on another coat. For a mold this size, if you want to create a faithful reproduction, you will require about 10 coats. More coats will make the mold more rigid, thus enabling you to make more accurate reproductions. I should mention that you should use an OLD brush (no Winsor and Newton sable brushes) and clean everything up immediately after each application of the rubber. Once you have decided you have enough coats on your model, coat the outside with corn starch, so that the rubber won't stick to itself. Carefully peel the rubber mold from the plaster penis. You should now have a latex negative of your penis. Making a silicone positive Cut a hole in the cardboard box just large enough for the mold to go through, and tape the mold to the box. Spray the inside of your mold with mold release agent. Mix the silicone (carefully, so as not to create too many bubbles) and pour it into the mold. If you use the vibrator on the outside of the mold, it will make the bubbles rise to the top thus improving the quality of the copy. The weight of the silicone will make the mold bulge somewhat thus distorting the copy - if you want to make an accurate copy, immerse the mold in water after filling the mold with the silicone - the pressure on the outside will equalize the pressure on the inside so less distortion will occur. Wait for 24 hours, then peel the rubber mold from the replica. Unless you have used medical grade silicone in the manufacturing of your replica, don't use it as a dildo without a condom. When using such toys, a condom is a good idea anyway, since it makes cleanup easier. Once you're done, give it to your wife for when you're not around. Last edited by bukaki22; 12-10-2003 at 01:20 PM..

12-10-2003, 01:27 PM	#2 (permalink)
clavus pow! Location: NorCal	Someone already did this sort of thing for me. It wasn't a mold, per se, but it was actual size: __________________ Ass, gas or grass. Nobody rides for free.

12-10-2003, 02:20 PM	#3 (permalink)
Redlemon Devoted Donor Location: New England	Here's a link to a very funny first-hand account of using the Create-A-Mate penis molding kit. Some good advice that would blend in with your writeup. (not reposted here, because the pictures are kind of important to go with the text) __________________ I can't read your signature. Sorry. Last edited by redlemon; 12-11-2003 at 06:48 AM..

12-10-2003, 04:19 PM	#5 (permalink)
nirol Crazy Location: South East US	Why? __________________ 'Tis better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than open one's mouth and remove all doubt. Samuel Johnson (1709 - 1784)

12-11-2003, 08:14 AM	#7 (permalink)
mtsgsd Addict Location: Wisconsin, USA	LOL. Reminds me of a night at a girlfriends home long ago. Her older sister came into the family room (full of family) to show the penis her and her boyfriend had just made in her bedroom using one of these kits. Lets see, the girlfriend was 19 or 20 at the time, and her sister was a year older. Everyone thought it was cool. Strange family.

12-13-2003, 06:51 PM	#8 (permalink)
la petite moi Filling the Void. Location: California	OMG HAHAHAHA.