Stripping paint off of furniture? - Tilted Forum Project Discussion Community

Plummie · 04-29-2003, 06:04 PM

I have been given a vintage piece of wood furniture that has several different coats of paint on it and is in shabby condition.

It has the potential to be a beautiful piece of furniture and I'd like to stain it once I remove the multiple coats of paint. I know sanding it would be nearly impossible and would take forever.

Has anybody tried the chemical paint strippers? Are you able to give me any tips or good brand names to stick with?

This is my first foray in furniture restoration. Help!

apetaster · 04-29-2003, 06:40 PM

As a first timer, I strongly suggest purchasing Citristrip, the companion 'Citristrip Wash' and a good stiff bristle nylon brush for starters. It is very friendly stuff, smells nice and works pretty well. Brush it on somewhat generously and let it work (per the directions.) Remove somewhat gently with either a nylon brush, or once you get the feel for what you are working with, perhaps a wide blade putty knife or paint scraper with appropriate pressure (if the item is veneer, the moisture from any stripper could cause puckering or other loosening of the sheets of veener, so be gentle at first until you know what you are working with. Plan on 2 or 3 rounds of stripping and light scraping, then sanding. I've had good luck with that approach with Citristrip, but have to admit I am still a huge fan of that nasty 5F5 (blue can, skin eating) stripper.

I highly recommend gel stains (Bartleys and WoodKote are best, IMO) - not Minwax stains or gel stains on refinishing. They tend to even out sins in the wood, even out the color and go on like a dream. Couple coats of a water based poly and you'll be in business.

04-29-2003, 06:51 PM

Last time I was in on a major wood stripping project, I believe we used Bix, on old varnish, and it worked really well. But it's a petroluem base, so not something you'd want in the house. Possibly not even in the garage....
There's some stuff called, I think, Citri-Strip, or similar, that is water based, and much less apt to burn a hole through your leg. Smells powerful of that citrus smell cleaners have today, but won't actually cause your lungs to eat themselves.

You got a real hardware or paint store handy? For your first project, it might be worth a few extra bucks for some primo stripper, just to have somebody close that knows what they're talking about.

When it comes to scraping tools, be creative with what you have around the house; the kitchen is a good place to look. A friend was stripping some cabinet hardware, and her weapon of choice was a 79cent, plastic handled, throw-away paring knife that she'd got at the drug store. (My most favortist putty/spackling knife is an old icing spatula thingy.) If you have small nooks and crannies to clean out, you want something small and easy to handle.

However you proceed, start with a small, less obtusive area, while you get a feel for how whichever product you use behaves.

Plummie · 04-29-2003, 07:25 PM

Wow. This is great advice! I will look into the Citristrip for sure.

I am curious about the 5F5. What is it?

apetaster · 04-30-2003, 02:13 AM

5F5 is essentially an old school stripper, made by a company called SGL. It works incredibly well, but is incredibly nasty stuff - so much so I'm surprised they still sell it in Mass. to the general public. Get a tiny dot of it on your skin and 15 seconds later it starts to burn - rinsing with water works, but it'll leave a little red mark for a while. Great stuff!

Lebell · 04-30-2003, 10:05 PM

This is all good advice, Plummie, so I really don't need to add to it, BUT be sure to buy a couple of pairs of GOOD rubber gloves, some safety glasses (you don't want this stuff in your eye) and work in a VENTILATED area, so you don't gas yourself.

Plummie · 05-01-2003, 07:08 AM

Ok guys, well yesterday I tried the Citristrip gel and it didn't work!

I did it exactly as the directions stated, but I think I need something more heavy-duty. There are at least 5 coats of paint on this table and I feel like chipping it off works better than the Citristrip!

I also tried a liquid paint stripper that has acetone and methylene chloride (nasty stuff) and am still not having great luck..

Either it's gonna take several coats of stripper and lots of chipping or I'm gonna have to just sand it down and re-paint it. Damn.

longjohns · 05-01-2003, 12:37 PM

methylene chloride strippers should eat just about anything - BUT

- it will eat through many kinds of gloves, be careful!
- it needs to be in a thick coat, and it will also re-harden if you wait too long - you kind of have to scrape at just the right time.

stripping complicated pieces like chairs etc. would be a hassle

good luck

apetaster · 05-01-2003, 04:07 PM

Plummie - How thick did you slather the Citristrip on, and how long did it sit for?

Did the paint 'alligator' on you, or did it not budge at all. It is expected to take several applications, but 5 tries following instructions and it is still not working does not make sense.

cj2112 · 05-01-2003, 04:17 PM

If Citristrip won't cut it, MEK should do the trick. Caution MEK is very toxic, and it will leach through your skin and prolonged exposure has been linked to nerve damage. Use proper protective gear (chemical resistant gloves etc.) Talk to the guys at your local paint shop (not Home Depot or somewhere like that, but a shop that sells professional grade paints.) they should be able to hook you up.

Plummie · 05-07-2003, 07:08 AM

Thanks for all your help. The table is finished now. Whew!

It took a week's worth of hard work, but now it is a beauty. Maybe I will take a picture of it to share with you guys.

james t kirk · 05-12-2003, 03:54 PM

hmm,

As a guy who used to strip wood for a living, i would suggest you take it to a dunker.

For example, you can get a door stripped at a shop by them dunking it in a tank of the nastiest stuff going that only the pros can get. You wouldn't want to fall in that tank.

I don't know the brand names in the states, but i have tried several here in Toronto and they all pretty much work the same - half assed.

It takes several coats to remove paint, not so much to remove varnish.

What I do is put on a good coat of the stripper, then cover it in plastic wrap so it won't dry up too quickly.

Then use a scrapper.

In the end, you have to sand all the wood to get a good surface before you can refinish too.

Oh, and yeah, the stuff generally burns like hell, and even water doesn't seem to get rid of the stinging.

Nasty

04-29-2003, 06:04 PM	#1 (permalink)
Plummie Liquid Diamonds Location: Lexington, KY	Stripping paint off of furniture? I have been given a vintage piece of wood furniture that has several different coats of paint on it and is in shabby condition. It has the potential to be a beautiful piece of furniture and I'd like to stain it once I remove the multiple coats of paint. I know sanding it would be nearly impossible and would take forever. Has anybody tried the chemical paint strippers? Are you able to give me any tips or good brand names to stick with? This is my first foray in furniture restoration. Help! __________________ Kim

04-29-2003, 07:25 PM	#4 (permalink)
Plummie Liquid Diamonds Location: Lexington, KY	Wow. This is great advice! I will look into the Citristrip for sure. I am curious about the 5F5. What is it? __________________ Kim

04-30-2003, 10:05 PM	#6 (permalink)
Lebell Cracking the Whip Location: Sexymama's arms...	This is all good advice, Plummie, so I really don't need to add to it, BUT be sure to buy a couple of pairs of GOOD rubber gloves, some safety glasses (you don't want this stuff in your eye) and work in a VENTILATED area, so you don't gas yourself. __________________ "Of all tyrannies, a tyranny exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval of their own conscience." – C. S. Lewis The ONLY sponsors we have are YOU! Please Donate!

05-01-2003, 07:08 AM	#7 (permalink)
Plummie Liquid Diamonds Location: Lexington, KY	Ok guys, well yesterday I tried the Citristrip gel and it didn't work! I did it exactly as the directions stated, but I think I need something more heavy-duty. There are at least 5 coats of paint on this table and I feel like chipping it off works better than the Citristrip! I also tried a liquid paint stripper that has acetone and methylene chloride (nasty stuff) and am still not having great luck.. Either it's gonna take several coats of stripper and lots of chipping or I'm gonna have to just sand it down and re-paint it. Damn. __________________ Kim

05-07-2003, 07:08 AM	#11 (permalink)
Plummie Liquid Diamonds Location: Lexington, KY	Thanks for all your help. The table is finished now. Whew! It took a week's worth of hard work, but now it is a beauty. Maybe I will take a picture of it to share with you guys. __________________ Kim

04-29-2003, 06:40 PM	#2 (permalink)
apetaster Insane Location: P.R. Mass.	As a first timer, I strongly suggest purchasing Citristrip, the companion 'Citristrip Wash' and a good stiff bristle nylon brush for starters. It is very friendly stuff, smells nice and works pretty well. Brush it on somewhat generously and let it work (per the directions.) Remove somewhat gently with either a nylon brush, or once you get the feel for what you are working with, perhaps a wide blade putty knife or paint scraper with appropriate pressure (if the item is veneer, the moisture from any stripper could cause puckering or other loosening of the sheets of veener, so be gentle at first until you know what you are working with. Plan on 2 or 3 rounds of stripping and light scraping, then sanding. I've had good luck with that approach with Citristrip, but have to admit I am still a huge fan of that nasty 5F5 (blue can, skin eating) stripper. I highly recommend gel stains (Bartleys and WoodKote are best, IMO) - not Minwax stains or gel stains on refinishing. They tend to even out sins in the wood, even out the color and go on like a dream. Couple coats of a water based poly and you'll be in business.

04-29-2003, 06:51 PM	#3 (permalink)
Big Julie Guest	Last time I was in on a major wood stripping project, I believe we used Bix, on old varnish, and it worked really well. But it's a petroluem base, so not something you'd want in the house. Possibly not even in the garage.... There's some stuff called, I think, Citri-Strip, or similar, that is water based, and much less apt to burn a hole through your leg. Smells powerful of that citrus smell cleaners have today, but won't actually cause your lungs to eat themselves. You got a real hardware or paint store handy? For your first project, it might be worth a few extra bucks for some primo stripper, just to have somebody close that knows what they're talking about. When it comes to scraping tools, be creative with what you have around the house; the kitchen is a good place to look. A friend was stripping some cabinet hardware, and her weapon of choice was a 79cent, plastic handled, throw-away paring knife that she'd got at the drug store. (My most favortist putty/spackling knife is an old icing spatula thingy.) If you have small nooks and crannies to clean out, you want something small and easy to handle. However you proceed, start with a small, less obtusive area, while you get a feel for how whichever product you use behaves.

04-30-2003, 02:13 AM	#5 (permalink)
apetaster Insane Location: P.R. Mass.	5F5 is essentially an old school stripper, made by a company called SGL. It works incredibly well, but is incredibly nasty stuff - so much so I'm surprised they still sell it in Mass. to the general public. Get a tiny dot of it on your skin and 15 seconds later it starts to burn - rinsing with water works, but it'll leave a little red mark for a while. Great stuff!

05-01-2003, 12:37 PM	#8 (permalink)
longjohns Insane	methylene chloride strippers should eat just about anything - BUT - it will eat through many kinds of gloves, be careful! - it needs to be in a thick coat, and it will also re-harden if you wait too long - you kind of have to scrape at just the right time. stripping complicated pieces like chairs etc. would be a hassle good luck

05-01-2003, 04:07 PM	#9 (permalink)
apetaster Insane Location: P.R. Mass.	Plummie - How thick did you slather the Citristrip on, and how long did it sit for? Did the paint 'alligator' on you, or did it not budge at all. It is expected to take several applications, but 5 tries following instructions and it is still not working does not make sense.

05-01-2003, 04:17 PM	#10 (permalink)
cj2112 Unbelievable Location: Grants Pass OR	If Citristrip won't cut it, MEK should do the trick. Caution MEK is very toxic, and it will leach through your skin and prolonged exposure has been linked to nerve damage. Use proper protective gear (chemical resistant gloves etc.) Talk to the guys at your local paint shop (not Home Depot or somewhere like that, but a shop that sells professional grade paints.) they should be able to hook you up.

05-12-2003, 03:54 PM	#12 (permalink)
james t kirk Junkie Location: Toronto	hmm, As a guy who used to strip wood for a living, i would suggest you take it to a dunker. For example, you can get a door stripped at a shop by them dunking it in a tank of the nastiest stuff going that only the pros can get. You wouldn't want to fall in that tank. I don't know the brand names in the states, but i have tried several here in Toronto and they all pretty much work the same - half assed. It takes several coats to remove paint, not so much to remove varnish. What I do is put on a good coat of the stripper, then cover it in plastic wrap so it won't dry up too quickly. Then use a scrapper. In the end, you have to sand all the wood to get a good surface before you can refinish too. Oh, and yeah, the stuff generally burns like hell, and even water doesn't seem to get rid of the stinging. Nasty