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Old 04-29-2009, 06:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Grilled Cheese Art

Does anybody know how I would go about burning an image on a grilled cheese or quesadilla? I'm thinking some sort of stencil; would work, but I would need material that is heat resistant. Any ideas?
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Old 04-29-2009, 07:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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tinfoil? or light gauge steel wire, bend it to shape, heat it up, and brand that grilled cheese 'fore it wanders off and joins another herd.
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Old 04-29-2009, 07:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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For grilled cheese, just press an image into the bread before grilling. The indented part will stay light while the rest darkens.
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Old 04-30-2009, 10:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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How about sheet metal or metal flashing for a stencil (available at home depot).

I'm not sure what you're trying to do, but you could also use food coloring, caramel color, or just a little bit of UNSWEETENED cocoa powder (not enough to taste). Make a stencil out of plastic and lightly mist the bread with the coloring (or lightly sprinkle with cocoa powder). You might try grilling before and grilling after to see which one has the best results.

Last edited by vanblah; 04-30-2009 at 10:37 AM..
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Trying to sell Jesus grilled cheese on ebay? We've all thought about it...
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Old 05-02-2009, 06:01 AM   #6 (permalink)
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LOL, zeraph
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Old 05-03-2009, 09:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanblah View Post
How about sheet metal or metal flashing for a stencil (available at home depot).

I'm not sure what you're trying to do, but you could also use food coloring, caramel color, or just a little bit of UNSWEETENED cocoa powder (not enough to taste). Make a stencil out of plastic and lightly mist the bread with the coloring (or lightly sprinkle with cocoa powder). You might try grilling before and grilling after to see which one has the best results.
Do not use flashing for food and/or heat. It has some coating on it to help it resist rust and I am sure that it leaves some weird residue on everything when you heat it up. I doubt it is healthy. Food grade metals... stick to un-coated stainless steel or aluminum... or seasoned steel (think cast iron pan).
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Old 05-04-2009, 07:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Do not use flashing for food and/or heat. It has some coating on it to help it resist rust and I am sure that it leaves some weird residue on everything when you heat it up. I doubt it is healthy. Food grade metals... stick to un-coated stainless steel or aluminum... or seasoned steel (think cast iron pan).
You're probably right on that. I'm sure someone has a food-grade light-gauge steel product that could be used for a branding a grilled cheese.

I'd still go with the food coloring or some kind of seasoning to make it look like it was burned into the bread. You could use dark spices like cumin, chilli powder, or paprika in addition to what I mentioned earlier.
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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heat up a metal cookie cutter on you stove top burner, then use it to make the brand.
I have seen bread "brands" for just such applications, but they are usually Mickey Mouse or something babyish.
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Old 09-30-2009, 02:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Old 10-03-2009, 09:00 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I would never have thought about using a brand on bread this way but it's a good idea. There are some places on the web that sell grilling brands for steaks. These might work.
They are custom made to order and a little pricey.
As to using "sheet metal" , DON'T, UNLESS you know for certain it isn't coated with galvanizing coating. Most galvanizing coats contain some lead and getting any galvanizing hot enough to burn causes serious toxic fumes. Not to mention you wouldn't want to ingest it.

Buy it custom.
Go to a metal working shop or machine shop and talk to them about your idea.
If they have a plasma cutter or water jet they can knock them out from your pattern all day long as many as you want. Remember, it's porous bread, it can't be too detailed and still show up.

You can get sheet steel that is uncoated but it would have to be rather thick to be heated
(at 450 to 600 degrees)and not warp.“Likely ¼” steel at least.)
This could be done with a hacksaw, file and drill, going by a pattern.
The problem is it will take a lot to heat up and keep hot. You would need to have a metal rod for a handle on this and wood on the end.

DIY

There are a lot of things that can be done with whats below. Plant holders, Sign hangers, hooks, fireplace sets, tools, scores of decorative items. If were doing this type thing, you can buy metal from dealers like local Fastenal branches, McMaster-Carr, and a lot of metal wholesalers much less than Lowe's or Home Depot.

If you are still looking at doing this yourself, I would recommend looking up some info on bending wire. Hook up with an Elmer (thats an older gent that knows how and is willing to shepherd you through this or even use his stuff.)

You will need to heat the metal to dark red at least to start bending.
CAUTION, THIS IS ABOUT 900 TO 1100 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.
This is way past a third degree burn, so be careful.
What I describe below must be done in a safe area. It will involve use of a very high temperature torch working between 2700 and 5300 degrees F.
This can be done safely and has been for years and is done daily by tens of thousands of metal workers around the globe.
If you're looking for a useful hobby this can be fun as long as you pay attention to details and safety. If you had none of the tools listed below, you could get them all new and good quality for under 300$. If you are thrifty, you could get a mix of new and used for under a 100$.
There aren't many things you can get into that cheap.

You can make a bending jig to bend wire and small bar stock (3/16ths" or 1/4" mild, hot rolled steel, In this thickness you can also get stainless to work ok, but not quite as easy.)
I have made brands for shipping crates this way (hard to get rid of or paint over)

Tools needed: Variable speed 1/2” drill with mount block, Propane or MAPP gas torch (with oxygen is best), heavy pliers (2 pairs are nice, best if one is a locking plier) light to medium ball or cross pein hammer, bench vise or other clamp-on vise, Metal bucket for water quenching at least 3/4 full, heavy welding gloves, safety goggles, Non-burning clothes (cotton) safe shoes and leather apron. (Items I use)

Material:
A piece of 3/16ths" or 1/4" wire 36" long should be long enough for a handle and the brand in one piece.
Unless you want a bent handle, a piece of oak dowel 3/4" in diameter 6" long
Sandpaper in various medium and fine grits.

Make an outline on board or heavy paper to go by. Measure the length.
(not sure how long your pattern runs? Take paracord and lay it out along the pattern, then mark the end. Straighten it out and measure it.
Measure twice, cut once. Take a piece of coat hanger to test your shape first. Being thinner it will not be exact but close enough to let you know where your going. It might be time to go back to the drawing board. If not, you're good to go.

Next item is to polish the end to be used on the brand end. If your pattern is 12" long then polish 13" or 14".
If you don't have a lathe you can lock a drill up in a vise then lock the rod in the drill chuck.
Take sandpaper starting at about 120 to 150 grit then progressing up to about 240 to 320 grit. You can go higher but this should be sufficient.
(Finishing the tip end that's heated is best because it has to be washed, it comes in contact with food and it's easier to season with cooking oil.)
Turn the drill on to a low speed and lock the trigger.

Make sure your tip end is going to work for the design. Is an open end ok?
Does some closed loop (such as a complete circle) need to be there?
Add an extra 1/2" on the end if you need to close the tip end back to your design. (If it is too much it can be cut back exact at the end.)
Using a sharpie, mark points where bends and radius will be.
Be aware, these may not end up exactly where you thought when you progress.
As you heat and bend, there will be a bit of shrinkage as you go.


If you have looked up info on bending wire in a jig then you probably have made your jig already.
(an example of a small store bought jig can be seen at toolmonger.com
Lock this up in your vise.

If you are going old school and want to use pliers and hammer to bend and form you'll have to have a surface similar to an anvil to hammer on.
many bench vises have a small anvil on their saddle.
If you do it this way you will be better to use a file to mark where your bends go.

AGAIN, You will need to heat the metal to dark red at least to start bending.
CAUTION, THIS IS ABOUT 900 TO 1100 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.
This is way past a third degree burn, so be careful.

As you bend your coat hanger, think if you'll need to make a certain bend first because it's complicated or it would be hard to do after another bend. This is where planning rules. At this point think of it as a puzzle, if I do this, can I do that after. It may be as simple as a cookie cutter but that may look different when you start bending.
The last bend will be a 90 degree bend to turn the handle for use. Again, back to the coat hanger, make bends that make sense workwise.

I'm going to stop at this point and say the above is the main of it. There are some things that have to be shown or learned first, either by instruction or trial and error. I couldn't begin to include everything to be said about this one limited subject.
Since the grilling season is turning from the backyard to the tailgate, I'm wondering if you found a solution for customized grilled cheese or was it “back-burnered” (pun intended)
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