02-10-2008, 10:28 AM | #1 (permalink) |
Appreciative
Location: Paradise
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Soldering Iron
Hello there. I am thinking of making a CMOY headphone amp and am very new to electronics. I need to buy a soldering iron and was wondering if anyone could help me pick one out.
I always prefer to buy through Amazon when I can as I get free shipping and have always found them reliable. The kit that seems to make the most sense for me is this . It gets mixed reviews and a couple people seem to find that it either doesn't get hot enough or that it takes a few minutes to get hot. Waiting a few minutes to solder something is never going to be an issue for me, so I don't see a problem... However, I would love for some insight from someone with the know-how and/or a suggestion for a better one (preferably through Amazon, but that doesn't matter too much). Oh, and as this is a hobby I may or may not get too involved in, I don't want to be paying a bunch more than the price of this one. Thanks everyone! |
02-10-2008, 07:34 PM | #6 (permalink) | |
The sky calls to us ...
Super Moderator
Location: CT
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02-10-2008, 08:52 PM | #7 (permalink) |
Détente
Location: AWOL in Edmonton
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Get yourself a desoldering braid before you start. I've only used my desoldering pump once, but I bat about 0.500 on using too much solder and the braid is very handy.
I tend to use my 25W pencil way more often than my variable temp 50W station, although I should disclose that these days I use neither frequently anymore. But when I needed to fix up a dimmer pot on some christmas lights, I went for the little one. I've melted off contact points with the hotter one, but I've never fried anything with the small one. Ceramic tips >> non ceramic. Also, I have two cold heat soldering irons. One unopened and one used once. I kept getting them as gifts a couple years ago. Don't get one. |
02-10-2008, 09:26 PM | #8 (permalink) |
Appreciative
Location: Paradise
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Thanks for all the tips everyone!
I think I will go with one of the pencil style Wellers. Amazon has a and a . I presume the 25 watt one is a few cents more as it comes with a few accessories, but is there any reason for me to not get the 40watt one if I don't care about those accessories? |
02-11-2008, 04:52 PM | #9 (permalink) |
Mulletproof
Location: Some nucking fut house.
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Gotta second the de-soldering braid. I've tried all kinds of de-soldering tools and solder suckers and not liked many of them. Braid is all I'll use any more.
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Don't always trust the opinions of experts. |
02-18-2008, 12:52 PM | #11 (permalink) |
Psycho
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I second the use of the braid. A roll will last you forever, and they're very cheap.
Also, heed Bossnass' advice on the Cold Heat. The tips fracture easily and you can't use it on any small components.
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"Empirically observed covariation is a necessary but not sufficient condition for causality" - Edward Tufte |
03-26-2008, 06:38 AM | #12 (permalink) |
Junkie
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I haven't hear dany bad advice on this thread so far.
Weller is the best option, the more wattage the better, as long as it's variable, and the de-soldering braid is the best. The only thing I would add is if you are getting lead-free solder, make sure to buy some flux.
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I'll Throw You! |
04-06-2008, 10:27 AM | #13 (permalink) |
Poo-tee-weet?
Location: The Woodlands, TX
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the de-soldering braid is good stuff... took me a while to figure out how to use it...
have to heat the braid along with the solder... duh... pretty obvious... shoulda figured it out on my own.
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-=JStrider=- ~Clatto Verata Nicto |
04-08-2008, 11:00 AM | #15 (permalink) |
Eat your vegetables
Super Moderator
Location: Arabidopsis-ville
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Yes.
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04-09-2008, 05:05 AM | #16 (permalink) |
Upright
Location: reykjavík, iceland
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20 years of experience soldering (i got into electronics at a very young age) has taught me that the iron matters nowhere near as much as the skill. ok, so a good variable iron will make life a bit easier but i´ve had a pretty basic iron from the word go and have never had the need to get anything better and have never been stuck with it. good practise i to keep the tip clean (i scrape it after nearly everytime i solder a joint) a well ventilated area (you need to stay focussed and inhaling chemicals makes your head sore and your hands shake) and good even light. a little practise 1st, really you don´t need much, and you´ll have no probs tackling intricate issues (just last week i opened up this very latop and resoldered a few connections that had become loose and while the cheap iron i bought did me no favours it all worked out in the end.)
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mother nature made the aeroplane, and the submarine sandwich, with the steady hands and dead eye of a remarkable sculptor. she shed her mountain turning training wheels, for the convenience of the moving sidewalk, that delivers the magnetic monkey children through the mouth of impossible calendar clock, into the devil's manhole cauldron. physics of a bicycle, isn't it remarkable? |
04-09-2008, 01:56 PM | #18 (permalink) |
Upright
Location: O.C.
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I use both HAKO and WELLER brand soldering irons. Either will be fine. Make sure you get copper braid adn I also use additional flux to help in keeping the solder connection nice and clean. Just use alcohol to clean it off. Helps with making sure you dont end up with cold solder joints.
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"He's the best of us. The best of our best, the best that each of us will ever build or ever love. So pray for this Guardian of our growth and choose him well, for if he be not truly blest, then our designs are surely frivolous and our future but a tragic waste of hope. Bless our best and adore for he doth bear our measure to the Cosmos." "You are What you do When it counts" |
04-27-2008, 02:22 AM | #19 (permalink) |
Very Insignificant Pawn
Location: Amsterdam, NL
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For the project you mention, a 25 watt is best for the printed circuit board work. If you have to solder a large heat sink then a 40 watt might be best for that. However, a headphone amp will not require that, I think. You can buy a cheap iron at Radio Shack or wherever. For one project you don't need a $150 variable work station!
I find a glass ashtray useful as an iron stand/holder. As stated above technique is very important. Keep the iron tip clean. Use a damp sponge or cloth. Do not use a file or scrape the tip because it is coated with copper. You file it and the copper is gone. The procedure is, wipe the tip and then apply a little 60-40 or 70-30 rosin core solder to it right away before the copper oxidizes. You can Google how to solder correctly. Let us know how the project goes. Last edited by flat5; 04-27-2008 at 02:26 AM.. |
04-27-2008, 04:43 PM | #20 (permalink) | |
zomgomgomgomgomgomg
Location: Fauxenix, Azerona
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Quote:
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/solder [sod-er]
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twisted no more Last edited by telekinetic; 04-27-2008 at 04:48 PM.. |
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04-27-2008, 07:05 PM | #21 (permalink) | |
Upright
Location: reykjavík, iceland
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Quote:
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mother nature made the aeroplane, and the submarine sandwich, with the steady hands and dead eye of a remarkable sculptor. she shed her mountain turning training wheels, for the convenience of the moving sidewalk, that delivers the magnetic monkey children through the mouth of impossible calendar clock, into the devil's manhole cauldron. physics of a bicycle, isn't it remarkable? |
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iron, soldering |
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