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Old 10-01-2008, 05:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Owner Operators: The modern Mom & Pop Shops

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View: The Personal Touch, Right Down to the Name
Source: NYTimes
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The Personal Touch, Right Down to the Name
September 14, 2008
Weekend in New York | Owner Operators
The Personal Touch, Right Down to the Name
By SETH KUGEL
NEXT time you’re in New York, be sure to say hi to Mary, Sunita, Roslyn, Jeffrey and Roni-Sue.

They’re proprietors of a rare kind of Manhattan business: shops and restaurants named for living, breathing people who actually own and operate the places themselves.

Places named after real live people are even rarer than they seem. Peter Luger of steakhouse fame died in 1941, and F. A. O. Schwarz sold his last toy long before that. Duane Reade is named for two downtown streets, not some visionary pharmacist. And if you ask to speak to Joe at the cafe of the same name, you’ll find yourself chatting with a dark brown liquid that tastes great but is not much of a conversationalist.

But in some eponymous businesses, the presence of the owner gives a charmingly old-fashioned feel to the place. Squeeze into the diminutive bar named Sunita on the Lower East Side and you’ll almost certainly find Sunita Lofters, the owner and almost certainly the only Guyanese-born chemist running a bar in hipsterland.

She opened the laid-back, neighborhoody bar in 2003 simply because it’s what she “always wanted to do,” she said. This is not the place for a beer, what with Ms. Lofters’s carefully concocted drinks like her jalapeño passion martini (vodka infused with peppers, passion fruit purée, heat level modified to taste). Oh, and she’s easy to distinguish from the other employees, because there are no other employees: she opens and closes, greets, bounces, bartends, cleans, takes deliveries, mops up and keeps the books.

Unlike Ms. Lofters, the restaurateur Pichet Ong doesn’t work alone. But he does spend virtually every day at P*ong, the semi-desserterie that opened in 2006 and got a star from the New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni in 2007. The place is named after himself, Mr. Ong likes to note, not the 1970s video game of nearly the same name.

His menu is split into savory, sweet-and-savory and sweet sections, enabling you to have a 10- or 13-course tasting menu or just stop by for a “simple” multi-course dessert. It’s one of those places where oddball ingredients come together in unusual ways: “strange flavor eggplant,” for example, uses quinoa, walnut, mint and ricotta; and what would those chiogga beets be without black garlic ice cream? If your answer is “better,” chances are you can address your complaint to Mr. Ong: he’s the guy manning the savory station at the open kitchen. Or serving as bartender. Or maître d’. Or waiter. Or next door frosting cupcakes at his bakery, Batch.

Then there’s Mary Redding, who mans the kitchen at Mary’s Fish Camp, the West Village restaurant specializing in, surprise, seafood. That includes a popular lobster roll that comes with distracting razor-thin fries — as in, their arrival at neighboring tables distracts you from perusing the menu. The place is not directly named for Mary, but after a campground in Florida Mary used to go to when she was little that happened to be named for another Mary. But that’s being picky.

You may not get a chance to chat with Mary, but just try not to talk with Roslyn Grant, who runs Roslyn, an Upper West Side jewelry and hat shop. Her store specializes not only in re-created vintage engagement rings and original hats, but also in one-on-one service from Ms. Grant, the elegantly decked-out owner who presides over the place in a somewhat regal style.

She’s a bit gruff at times — she interrupted a sales pitch recently to snap “Too loud!” at an employee fiddling with the store’s music system — but that beats apathetic any day. If you’re looking for a gift, be prepared to answer a barrage of questions about the giftee: eye color, hair style, fashion sense and what she does for a living. In fact, you’d save some time by bringing her photo and résumé.

THE eponymy epicenter of Manhattan, however, has to be the indoor Essex Street Market on the Lower East Side. Among the many owner-operated shops, the most famous is Shopsins, the legendary former West Village restaurant run by the foul-mouthed eccentric, prolific sandwich inventor and soon to be author Kenny Shopsin.

His nutty menu has hundreds of options, many of which sound awful but somehow all taste great as long as you like the individual ingredients. For example, don’t dare question a cranberry milkshake. “You like cranberries?” says Zack, a Shopsin son with a mouth similar to his dad’s that makes exact quotations impossible. (Add vulgarities where grammatically correct.) “You like ice cream? You like milk?”

By the way, the family doesn’t adhere to the work ethic of Sunita Lofters and Pichet Ong: it’s open only 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday. (The whole market is closed Sundays.)

Next door to Shopsins is Saxelby Cheesemongers (where you can most likely say hi to Anne Saxelby), and toward the other end of the market you’ll find the fourth-generation butcher Jeffrey Ruhalter at Jeffrey’s on Essex, and Roni-Sue’s Chocolates, a postage-stamp-size candy shop specializing in butter crunch, truffles and whatever the owner Rhonda (a k a Roni-Sue) Kave comes up with. The store’s name — and its throwback sign — date back to a children’s clothing shop her mom named for her when she was a kid in South Jersey.

One of her recent offerings, the disgusting-sounding but highly addictive chocolate-covered bacon she calls Pig Candy, is an unusual collaboration among eponymous shopowners. The bacon comes from Jeffrey, is deep-fried by the Shopsins and then dipped in chocolate by Roni Sue herself. Now if only they knew the name of the pig.

FOOD AND DRINK AND FANCY HATS

Sunita, 106 Norfolk Street; (212) 253-8860; Welcome to Sunita Bar.

P*ong, 150 West 10th Street; (212) 929-0898; P*ONG, Restaurant in New York City , West Village restaurant, Greenwich Village Restaurant, restaurant greenwich, restaurant west village, restaurant store new york city.

Mary’s Fish Camp, 64 Charles Street, at West 4th Street; (646) 486-2185; Mary's & Brooklyn Fish Camps, NYC ? Yummy!.

Roslyn, 276 Columbus Avenue, at West 73rd Street; (212) 496-5050.

In the Essex Street Market, 120 Essex Street on the Lower East Side:

Shopsins, no phone; Shopsins.

Saxelby Cheesemongers, (212) 228-8204; ~ Saxelby Cheese ~.

Jeffrey’s on Essex, (212) 475-6521; Jeffrey's On Essex.

Roni-Sue’s Chocolates, (212) 260-0421; roni-sue's chocolates.
The Essex Street Market is an old European style market. Good stuff in there, and reasonably priced. Roni-Sue makes some good tasty chocolate. Jeff has great meat selection and Saxelby has nice cheese selection. I have yet to eat at Shopsins.

I frequent a number of places that aren't "chains". I'm fortunate that I live in a metropolitian city that has lots of choices. But as the TV shows and newspapers remind us, there are lots of these kinds of gems tucked away around the country.

Do you have any finds to share that are owner operated?

These are the ones that we frequent

sugar Sweet sunshine | NYC Bakery
Peg one of the owners is usually in the store when we are there. She gets us a pair of cupcakes, a Blue or Green Vanilla Buttercream for Skogafoss, and Lemon Buttercream for me. It's AWESOME!
Cupcakes of reasonable size and yumminess. $1.50

DOUGHNUT PLANT | New York City
Incredible doughnuts. Mark Israel makes some incrediblly tasty and original doughnuts. Our favorite ones we wait ALL year for are the cranberry ones which come towards the end of November.
Doughnuts of incredible size $1.75 - $2.75
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Last edited by Cynthetiq; 10-01-2008 at 08:41 PM.. Reason: emphasis the OP question
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Old 10-01-2008, 06:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Given the choice, I ALWAYS choose the mom and pop shop over a chain, especially restaurants. In my town, we are lucky enough to have a coffee shop run by a couple who roast their own coffee. We also have a kick ass pizza joint, and I eat there about once a week. I haven't had a Domino's or Pizza hut pizza in over a year.

The store I work in is privately owned, even though it's in the mall with Pac Sun and Aeropostale. The only thing we don't have here is a locally owned bookstore. They seem to be closing all over.
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Old 10-01-2008, 06:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That kind of stuff is one of the things I like best about NYC.

Luckily there are also a lot of established, very good family run/mom & pop sort of places around here...Philadelphia and vicinity. The ones I go to pretty often are a great local bakery, a deli, a butcher who makes his own (they're the best) sausages, several ethnic markets reflecting heritage and foodstuffs from around the world, and I just came from one of my favorite family-run joints...being Philly it happens to be a cheesesteak sandwich from John’s Roast Pork in South Philly; it's been around since 1930 and still run by Momma Bucci and her sons and it's barely worth eating any other cheesesteak...though I do just to make sure
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Old 10-01-2008, 07:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Where I can I too go to Independent stores and restaurants. While the restaurant chains can attest to offering low prices and consistent service... their quality of food is always just a little sub par (sometimes more than a little). It is the price you must pay for cookie cutter chain. My favourite coffee shop in Toronto was the Riverdale Perk. It was a block from my house (I could see my porch from the patio) and had fresh baked goods made on the premises (I dream of opening a shop like this some day).

The interesting thing about living here is that there is a real contrast between the independent hawker stalls and chain restaurants. Hawkers are abundant but you need to know which one to go to for the best flavour. The chains are relatively expensive by comparison.
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Old 10-01-2008, 07:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I stick to independent stores for many products. They tend to be better than the corporate alternatives. Unfortunately, I don't have the freedom to choose an independent place for groceries where we live. We are on a waiting list for a community supported agriculture group where we live, but no luck yet.
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Old 10-01-2008, 08:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Owner-operated establishments are pretty common here. My favorite place to buy coffee beans in town is a owner-operated roastery that's family-owned; both the husband and wife work there, as well as their daughter when it's busy. The guy roasts all the coffee himself in the store, and so he can answer all the questions you might have about the coffee, its origins, and the roast he used. He's happy to do so. I really enjoy going there; they also sell hot coffee so you can try it before you buy it.

A number of restaurants and coffeeshops around here are owner-operated. It's generally my preference to go to such a place. In terms of how development is regulated in my community, one of the priorities is to make this town a place where these sorts of establishments are the norm over big box stores.
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Old 10-01-2008, 08:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Are you all so selfish you aren't willing to share the WHO your mom and pops are and WHERE they are???

I'm glad we all agree that it is important to support such endeavors, but if you all don't share them, when I get to a new city I'm not going to know who to see or where to go... post addresses, links, reviews... something to SPREAD THE WORD of the mom and pop shop!!!

c'mon.... help a person out here....
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Old 10-01-2008, 08:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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We are on a waiting list for a community supported agriculture group where we live, but no luck yet.
Can you explain what this actually is? Sounds like something i'd love to have the option of over this side of the ocean, but... thanks!
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Old 10-01-2008, 08:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Can you explain what this actually is? Sounds like something i'd love to have the option of over this side of the ocean, but... thanks!
Links
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks Cyn.

If only I had the regular income to happily exist in France.

Actually... maybe I do.

Hmm. Why live in Spain when you can live in France?
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Can you explain what this actually is? Sounds like something i'd love to have the option of over this side of the ocean, but... thanks!
It's basically a subscription to a farm. You pay a monthly fee and pick up a box of fresh fruit and vegetables or meat every week. Cynthetiq's link is a good one if you're looking for a CSA outside of the US. You can find some info about US CSAs here: Local Harvest / Farmers Markets / Family Farms / CSA / Organic Food.
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:36 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Socialist Farmer's Markets! Kinda.

If only they organised them as consumer cooperatives. *prays for a link*
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Old 10-02-2008, 06:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
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This consumer cooperative in Olympia, Washington Olympia Food Co-op Home has been around since 1977 and I think it's a great model for how well these can work and benefit the local community. I'm proud that my daughter is presently involved with management there. She's so progressive and smart

sapiens' "CSA" link above reminded me that you can search these out in your area ...this link leads you to maps and lists for the U.S. and Canada: Find Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) Farms using an Interactive Map and Directory Locator Services.

I'll think about some more good mom & pop/owner operated places to add here, but for now I'm thinking sausages sausages sausages...ahhh, gotta have some homemade pierogis on the side...also these guys are generally excellent butchers so most of their meats are outstanding and way above quality compared to what you can buy in any chain market:

Having grown up in the Polish heartland neighborhood of Philadelphia, Port Richmond, I've had many varieties of kielbasa, including many store-bought and many home-made versions. Until the last couple of years, I was a die-hard fan of Czerw's, but now adays I've come to prefer Swiacki's. These are some awesome kielbasis; they also sell other excellent Polish and Eastern European foodstuffs.

Swiacki Meats



OR

Czerw's Kielbasy

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Old 10-02-2008, 07:07 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cynthetiq View Post
Are you all so selfish you aren't willing to share the WHO your mom and pops are and WHERE they are???

I'm glad we all agree that it is important to support such endeavors, but if you all don't share them, when I get to a new city I'm not going to know who to see or where to go... post addresses, links, reviews... something to SPREAD THE WORD of the mom and pop shop!!!

c'mon.... help a person out here....
Is anyone on this forum really going to make it out to Corvallis and check out some of these establishments? I highly doubt it. But anyways...here are a couple:

Oregon Legacy Coffee
Evidently you can order coffee from them. I really recommend trying it, if you're a coffee freak like me. The Guatemalan Organic/Fair Trade is our favorite.

Welcome To Cloud 9
This is a local restaurant owned and operated by a friend of ours--his name is in fact Cloud. He also owns the pub next door to Cloud 9, called the Downward Dog. They serve up the best cocktails in town.

http://www.brewbeer.cc/

If you're interested in beer, brewing beer, cheese making, wine making, soda making, or right now, cider making, Corvallis Brewing Supply is THE place to go in town. Joel, the owner, is a really nice guy with an adorable dog who hangs out in the shop with him. He has a bunch of homebrew recipes that he likes to share with customers. They also sell a variety of bottled beers and wine, mostly stuff you can't find anywhere else.

Block15 Brewery

One of my favorite restaurants in town. Simple pub grub, but made with local, delicious ingredients. Their pulled pork sandwich is so good I have a hard time ordering anything else. The owners manage it, but it's not uncommon to see one of them cooking or waiting a table.

Soup Shop (no website)

1603 NW Monroe Ave
Corvallis, OR 97330
(541) 758-0411

A simple soup joint, but with a twist--all of the soups are freshly made, every day, with local organic ingredients. You pay a little more here, but it's worth it. I love their clam chowder and their crouton chips. The owner and his wife make all the soups and work the counter themselves.

This is barely scratching the surface when it comes to owner-operated shops/restaurants/etc. in Corvallis.

EDIT: Oh, are we also listing co-ops? BadNick, our local co-op is a sister co-op to the co-op your daughter works for in Olympia. http://www.firstalt.coop/ I live two blocks from the North Store and shop there on a regular basis. I am not an owner-member of the co-op myself, but I plan on being one eventually. The North Store in my neighborhood is on the verge of undergoing a massive expansion. I'm looking forward to it!
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Last edited by snowy; 10-02-2008 at 07:21 AM..
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Old 10-02-2008, 08:03 AM   #15 (permalink)
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If for some reason you ever come to Fruita, CO

Hot Tomato Cafe - Home
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Old 10-02-2008, 08:10 AM   #16 (permalink)
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In Kensington Market in Toronto, you can find all kinds of independents. I particularly like the Moonbean Cafe, where you'll find a good selection of beans, always freshly roasted. It's a small place, but quite cozy. They even have Jamaican Blue Mountain. And if you like blended coffee, Forest Whisper is to die for—it's a blend of medium and dark roasted beans. The aroma alone is heavenly.

And then there's the Global Cheese Shoppe just a short walk around the corner. It's also a small place, with cheese stacked high. When you visit, make sure you go hungry! Samples galore! If you so much as glance at a cheese, they'll lop off a piece and insist you try it. Oh, and make sure you also go ready to buy; I've yet to leave that place with fewer than three cheese varieties.

Also, in my hometown of Kingston, there's the Sleepless Goat Cafe, which is a workers co-operative. They're quite cozy. The staff is nice, and they have an awesome selection of desserts that stare up at you longingly from the display counter.
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Old 10-02-2008, 08:13 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Is anyone on this forum really going to make it out to Corvallis and check out some of these establishments? I highly doubt it.
I'll be in Springfield in Feb! maybe I'll drive out to Corvy....
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Old 10-02-2008, 08:31 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I'll be in Springfield in Feb! maybe I'll drive out to Corvy....
Oh, man...it'll still be gray and rainy and wet then. Please do get out of Springfield. Springfield is representative of some of the worst aspects of the Pacific Northwest. Of course, Eugene next door is not much better. We're only an hour or so up the road. Definitely let me know if you come through!
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Old 10-02-2008, 08:41 AM   #19 (permalink)
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oh wait... we're going to a wedding... crap I can't find it. some hotel on the coast...
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Old 10-02-2008, 09:45 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I don't know if this is true, but it certainly sounds true to me. I once heard that there is only one business that still survives on mom and pop, with almost no infiltration by chain stores. And that business is retail porn.
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Old 10-02-2008, 05:00 PM   #21 (permalink)
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mmmm I'd love to visit some of these places.

Here's a few in Berkeley that we fell in love with:

Saul's Deli - Delightful for a sit-down meal or for takeout, great service, good food.

Brazil Cafe - started off as a small stand, moved on to open a hole-in-the-wall location. Known for their tri tip burritos, but vegetarian choices are shockingly delicious.

Rick & Ann's - hometown-feel diner comfort foods with a wholesome twist. Delightful for breakfast or lunch.
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