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Sion · 01-24-2004, 04:24 PM

somehow I doubt you have had 12 consecutive defective alternators. but what I would want to know is this: did each alternator die in the same way? meaning that the failure was the same for each one (ie insufficient amperage output, or bad diode, worn bearings, etc). If so, then I would suspect that there is something wrong with the car or the installation that is killing the alternators. also, the nature of the failures, if all the same, should point you in the direction of the problem.

if the failure has varied from alternator to alternator, then it is possible, if highly unlikely, that you just got a series of bum units.

are you doing the installation of these units yourself? are you 100% sure you have done it correctly? (not to be insulting, but just suggesting possibilities. even the best mechanics overlook things and/or make the occasional mistakes.)

some things to check on:

do NOT overtighten the drive belt. this will cause premature failure of the bearings. on the other hand, too loose a belt will cause the pulley to slip and thus the alternator, because it is not spinning fast enough, may seem bad when in reality it is not.

if you dont have one, get a Haynes or Chiltons manual for your car and check to make sure you have connected the wires to the alternator correctly.

it is possible that they initially gave you the WRONG alternator and have subsequently been replacing it with the same wrong model. i checked and found that the two options are a 50 amp and a 60 amp unit. if you are using a 50 amp unit and actually NEED a 60 amp one, that could be causing premature failure. I dont think this is a high probability, as 10 amps isnt a big difference, but the possibility exists.

also, concerning amperage, what sort of accessories does the vehicle have that draw power? ie power windows, door locks, etc. this can be important when determining what amperage a unit is required. especially important is if you have added aftermarket stereo equipment to the vehicle. i've seen cars that, because of the demands of the audio system (particularly amplifiers) these cars needed 200+ amp alternators.

finally, its possible that something in the car is shorted to ground (ie radio, a guage, domelight, etc) that is causing a constant and excessive draw on the alternator when the vehicle is running, thus leading to premature failure. if you have any accessories or lights that dont work, check them out for such a condition.

01-24-2004, 04:24 PM	#8 (permalink)
Sion Dumb all over...a little ugly on the side Location: In the room where the giant fire puffer works, and the torture never stops.	somehow I doubt you have had 12 consecutive defective alternators. but what I would want to know is this: did each alternator die in the same way? meaning that the failure was the same for each one (ie insufficient amperage output, or bad diode, worn bearings, etc). If so, then I would suspect that there is something wrong with the car or the installation that is killing the alternators. also, the nature of the failures, if all the same, should point you in the direction of the problem. if the failure has varied from alternator to alternator, then it is possible, if highly unlikely, that you just got a series of bum units. are you doing the installation of these units yourself? are you 100% sure you have done it correctly? (not to be insulting, but just suggesting possibilities. even the best mechanics overlook things and/or make the occasional mistakes.) some things to check on: do NOT overtighten the drive belt. this will cause premature failure of the bearings. on the other hand, too loose a belt will cause the pulley to slip and thus the alternator, because it is not spinning fast enough, may seem bad when in reality it is not. if you dont have one, get a Haynes or Chiltons manual for your car and check to make sure you have connected the wires to the alternator correctly. it is possible that they initially gave you the WRONG alternator and have subsequently been replacing it with the same wrong model. i checked and found that the two options are a 50 amp and a 60 amp unit. if you are using a 50 amp unit and actually NEED a 60 amp one, that could be causing premature failure. I dont think this is a high probability, as 10 amps isnt a big difference, but the possibility exists. also, concerning amperage, what sort of accessories does the vehicle have that draw power? ie power windows, door locks, etc. this can be important when determining what amperage a unit is required. especially important is if you have added aftermarket stereo equipment to the vehicle. i've seen cars that, because of the demands of the audio system (particularly amplifiers) these cars needed 200+ amp alternators. finally, its possible that something in the car is shorted to ground (ie radio, a guage, domelight, etc) that is causing a constant and excessive draw on the alternator when the vehicle is running, thus leading to premature failure. if you have any accessories or lights that dont work, check them out for such a condition. __________________ He's the best, of course, of all the worst. Some wrong been done, he done it first. -fz I jus' want ta thank you...falettinme...be mice elf...agin...