I was there last May. Make sure you get a week pass (or several days if that is all you have) for the buses. That also gets you on the cable cars. Don't try and drive in the city, but a car is important to get across the bridges and see some of the coast line.
You have to go down to Fishermans Warf and Pier 39. Sure, it is touristy, but that is why you are there. The food is amazing and should not be missed. A long walk through Chinatown is good, and you have to eat there too. I was actually there just a few months after returning from China, and it certainly is reminiscent of what I saw over there. Little Italy is a great place to grab another meal.
Get an Irish Coffee at the Buena Vista at the North end of the Cable Car line. I don't care if you don't like Irish Coffee; get one anyway....its the law.
If you have time, drive North and cut over the the coast at the first off ramp. When the road seems to stop, keep going on the one lane road. You will see old gun turretts from WW II. That is a great place to get a view back at the West side of the city (the residential part). Consider driving up a few more miles to Muir woods to see the old redwoods.
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I was there to see beautiful naked women. So was everybody else. It's a common failing.
Robert A Heinlein in "They Do It With Mirrors"
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