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I could spend a half an hour trying to describe options to you via typing, but I sort of thing "if you have to ask" you might be better off getting someone else to do it. If this isn't true then as follows: If the window is actually 21" then you only have 5/8" all around, which is perfect. You will probably have more though, since window for a 21" R.O will probably be 1.5" smaller overall. I would look in the anderssen book to see if they have a 21" actual outside dimension window. If not, go to a more local millwork shop, where you will get better service, advise and maybe even better price than big box. I am WAY turned off from big box for doors and windows - the guys never know what they are talking about and always a waste of time. I go to a place called fairview millwork and they sell windows, doors skylights mouldings, stair kits, etc. and they supply most builders in the area. Much better than any lumber yard or big box. find the similar place near you and buy the right product. If a window isn't shimmed then it needs to be attached correctly on the ouside and on the inside with the trim and also maybe extension jambs. If you don't shim then you need to make sure that the window is set correctely in and out, ie: in parallel plane to the insice wall, otherwise the jamb will be in to the wall too far in places or sticking out too far in places. I would get window with either brick mold or flat stock primed on outside - might be easier to attach to what wood you have around opening than just stupid nailing flange. Be sure to flash the top and counter flash brick correctly. If you aren't 100% sure then get help or your job will rot away in a few years from unseen leaks. That could be what got you where you are now. Also use poly iso cyanurate foam around frame - minimal expanding to not blow the jambs in. I always shim, unless nice new construction where everyting is uniform and trims hold just fine. good luck write back if you need more.
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