Tilted Forum Project Discussion Community - View Single Post

Sion · 08-23-2003, 12:44 PM

91 beretta? that would be drum brakes on the rear if my memory serves me correctly. that being the case, the squealing noise is probably one of the following:

accumulated brake dust from the shoes - clean the brake assembly thoroughly and it should go away

under-adjusted shoes - if the shoes are not making full contact with the drums upon brake application, the could cause a squeal. adjust the brakes to correct.

loose/worn parts - the hardware that holds the shoes in place could be worn/loose, allowing the shoes to vibrate when braking occurs, causing noise. replace hardware to correct - also, use caliper lube on the area where the sides of the shoes rub against the backing plate.

CHECK THE FRONT BRAKES - sometimes noises from the front seem to come from the back, and vice versa. check the fronts to be sure.

grumpyolddude's advice regarding front brakes is 100% accurate too.

as for removing the "glaze" from a set of brake pads or shoes - you need to understand that glazed brakes are a result of TOO MUCH heat. if your pads or shoes are glazed, it means that they got TOO HOT too fast. doing as fastshark suggested will only increase the amount of glaze on a set of brakes.

however, when replacing brake shoes or pads, the DO need to be properly seated to the drums/rotors. this is accomplished much in the manner that fastshark described, except at lower speeds. what you are trying to do is warm them up slowly and allow them to seat into the drums/rotors. (essentially, what you are doing is sanding the pads/shoes with the drums/rotors so that the surface of the brake is a match with the surface of the drum/rotor - you are overcoming the surface level difference between the two parts. for example, if the pad is smooth but the rotor surface is slightly wavy, there will not be 100% contact between the two. after seating, the surface of the pad will match the surface of the rotor so that they make the most contact with each other).

brake seating is much more important for front pads than rear shoes. but the procedure is as follows

firm braking pressure applied at 20 mph
drive for a minute or two
firm braking pressure applied at 25 mph
drive for a min or two
firm braking pressure applied at 30 mph

repeat every 5 mph until highway speeds are reached

note: firm braking pressure means just that. not panic braking, not almost hard enough to lock the brakes, just firm even braking, just a bit harder than normal braking under regular conditions.

08-23-2003, 12:44 PM	#10 (permalink)
Sion Dumb all over...a little ugly on the side Location: In the room where the giant fire puffer works, and the torture never stops.	91 beretta? that would be drum brakes on the rear if my memory serves me correctly. that being the case, the squealing noise is probably one of the following: accumulated brake dust from the shoes - clean the brake assembly thoroughly and it should go away under-adjusted shoes - if the shoes are not making full contact with the drums upon brake application, the could cause a squeal. adjust the brakes to correct. loose/worn parts - the hardware that holds the shoes in place could be worn/loose, allowing the shoes to vibrate when braking occurs, causing noise. replace hardware to correct - also, use caliper lube on the area where the sides of the shoes rub against the backing plate. CHECK THE FRONT BRAKES - sometimes noises from the front seem to come from the back, and vice versa. check the fronts to be sure. grumpyolddude's advice regarding front brakes is 100% accurate too. as for removing the "glaze" from a set of brake pads or shoes - you need to understand that glazed brakes are a result of TOO MUCH heat. if your pads or shoes are glazed, it means that they got TOO HOT too fast. doing as fastshark suggested will only increase the amount of glaze on a set of brakes. however, when replacing brake shoes or pads, the DO need to be properly seated to the drums/rotors. this is accomplished much in the manner that fastshark described, except at lower speeds. what you are trying to do is warm them up slowly and allow them to seat into the drums/rotors. (essentially, what you are doing is sanding the pads/shoes with the drums/rotors so that the surface of the brake is a match with the surface of the drum/rotor - you are overcoming the surface level difference between the two parts. for example, if the pad is smooth but the rotor surface is slightly wavy, there will not be 100% contact between the two. after seating, the surface of the pad will match the surface of the rotor so that they make the most contact with each other). brake seating is much more important for front pads than rear shoes. but the procedure is as follows firm braking pressure applied at 20 mph drive for a minute or two firm braking pressure applied at 25 mph drive for a min or two firm braking pressure applied at 30 mph repeat every 5 mph until highway speeds are reached note: firm braking pressure means just that. not panic braking, not almost hard enough to lock the brakes, just firm even braking, just a bit harder than normal braking under regular conditions. __________________ He's the best, of course, of all the worst. Some wrong been done, he done it first. -fz I jus' want ta thank you...falettinme...be mice elf...agin...