A. Looks good to me.
B. I personally have had great luck with hornady dies. They seem to be the best made, and most....convenient.
https://www.hornady.com/cgi-bin/web_....html&cart_id=
For .357 sig you will need to get a specialty die set that sells for 62 dollars. (I dont' know whether you need to worry about case trimming for .357 sig since it is necked down)
C. If you are going to buy new brass, you can't beat Starline brass. It is expensive, but you can reload it over and over and over again.
http://www.starlinebrass.com/
I personally by once fired speer brass off of gunbroker for about $15/1000 rounds. But I shoot .40 s&w mostly and it is readily available.
D. Hodgdon Titegroup powder. It is designed for optimum performance in medium handgun calibers. It isn't the hottest powder out there, but it is damn accurate, and hot enough.
E. Primers: you probably know better, but the primer is the small round thing that in the end of the cartridge. You should probably get CCI small pistol primers. There are a bunch of different kinds, so make sure you get the exact right kind.
F. You should be able to get any 9mm bullets. Make sure you get midweight, jacketed bullets. For simplicity, you should probably just get hornady xtp bullets for your first go around since most reloading manuals give specific data for those.
Answers to Misc.:
" I understand I have to be careful in measuring and following the recipe, but what if say the scale malfunctions, the round is to powerful, and something in my beloved pistol (which I can't really afford to replace) breaks. If I produce ammuntion that doesn't chamber properly."
You don't weigh the powder for every single round. You use the scale to calibrate your powder measure, which measures powder by volume. Also, if you use titegroup powder, it pretty much fills the case up, so it is pretty much impossible to load enough powder to blow up your gun.
If you use the reloading dies, and you get the over all length of your cartridges within specs, your ammo will chamber properly. The dies physically resize the brass to make sure that it fits. You need a pair of calipers to measure the length (reloading manuals tell you what the over all length should be for each type of bullet).
Shell holders run about three dollars and can be picked up at any wall mart or gun store. Or, worst case, ordered from the manufacturer.
You will also need a priming tool, but those are cheap too and will be included in any reloading kit.
I have reloaded lots of brass that has been fired in glocks and I have not had any problems. However, I have not heard that glocks damage the brass.
Here is a list of all my reloading equipment:
Press
Dies (for .45 long colt and .40 s&w) (and .270)
Calipers (to measure OAL)
Shell holders for each caliber
Scale
Powder measure/dispenser
Priming tool
Primer pocket cleaner
camfer tool
bullets (several kinds, even super cheap lead ones)
powder
primers
cheap once fired brass
tumbler for polishing brass (since I am anal)
tumbler media
case lube (not needed w/ carbide dies)
Everything but the .40 and .270 dies were made by lee.
I hope this is helpfull, I certainly dont' want to give bad advice.