Quote:
Originally Posted by pacaveli
re did all the harnass wires it still blew the fuse, might take it to a professional :/
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If you have a volt meter or a multi-meter, check your power lines. You should have two. One is continuous, to hold memory. The other is the main power that should only come on when the key is turned on. Make sure you have 12-14.4v on each line and no more. And that there is no power anywhere else.
Not all harnesses are the same, but most have power on the yellow and blue or red lines. The yellow is the main power and should only come on when the key is on.
If your power is right, the head-unit is the problem and will have to be replaced.
I don't know where you live, but if you're in the US most electronics shops that sell car audio, will do a free basic install with purchase and you can pick up a head unit for less than a $100. If that's the direction you have to go.
If you're looking for something better and feeling confident with the wiring. Fleabay has some great deals on car audio. I picked up a $600 Eclipse head unit a couple of years ago for a little over $200. It plays MP3 or WMA cd's and SD memory cards as well as regular cd's. So one cd in MP3 format will hold about 24hrs of music and a 32G memory card holds about 96 hours of music. I no longer have case of cd's floating around the truck, just a small wallet size case of 8 SD cards that never skip when I'm bouncing down a dirt road. That's roughly 96 cd's in a case the size of a wallet. Tech is awesome!
There are a lot of mid level cd players out that play mp3 cd's now, the memory card reader is rarer, but the mp3 cd will still cut the bulk of cds in the car by 75%.
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---------- Post added at 03:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:48 PM ----------
Quote:
Originally Posted by pacaveli
i think in my previous post i meant the face plate, when i take that off the radio turns off
nothings in the faceplate connector either.
What is happening with the inline fuse between the radio and the fuse panel?
are you referring the fuse on the back of the radio? it's still fine and functional not blow.
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The unit should shut off when the face plate is removed, so that is good. If the fuse doesn't blow when you put it back on, that is good too. If it does, make sure all the little contacts are straight, clean and there is no debris that could cause a short stuck in there. It could be something as small as a hair acting as a jumper. If it's the older Alpine style contacts with the small wires, the wires bend and can cause a short. Make sure both sides (the main unit and the face plate) are straight, tight and clean. In my 7yrs of car audio, the number one problem with removable face plate units was a bent contact on the face plate. Face plates get abused.
The fuse on the back of the unit not blowing when the cars fuse does, tells me there is something wrong with the continuous power circuit, which is display and memory. 95% chance it's a face plate problem, 5% chance it's a memory problem in the main unit. If it was a main power issue, the fuse on the back of the radio should blow first.