RogueGypsy

You dulled it after sharpening it, the ceramic should be the last step. Start with the Diamond, finish with the Ceramic. The Carbide is for serrated blades.

I find it easier to move the sharpener over the blade with this type of tool, so I'll explain the process as though that is what you are doing.

-Hold the knife in your 'weak' hand and the sharpener in your 'strong hand.

-Place the back of your weak hand on a table or the counter to steady it and hold the blade perpendicular to the table. If it's easier for you, you can hold the sharpener still and move the blade over it.

-Hold the sharpener against the blade at the desired angle. 20-23 deg is typical for kitchen and pocket knives. To find the angle of the blade, rock the sharpener on the edge to feel where it sits flat. There will be 2 angles ground on most knives. The first, nearest the spine, will be steeper, the second is the edge you want to sharpen . This is the hardest and most crucial part of sharpening any edge. KEEP THE ANGLE CONSISTENT. You can get an edge that will slice paper using a brick, if you keep the angle consistent. Once you can keep a consistent angle between the blade and sharpener, you can do what you want with your hands/sharpener/blade, making it easier to sharpen.

-Run the sharpener from the front bolster to the tip, or from tip to bolster, whichever is more comfortable, with the edge, (a thin sharpener like you have, makes it difficult to get a consistent edge when using it like a stone, going across the edge) using light pressure. No need to grind on the blade, you're just removing a little bit of steel to get the edge keen. I like to take 5 passes per side before alternating, Just make sure you make the same number of passes on each side, otherwise the blade may get sharp, but the edge will be off-center. It shouldn't take more than 10-20 passes per side if you keep the angle consistent. Don't stop until the blade is as sharp as you would like. Running your finger from the spine off the edge of the blade on each side, you should feel a slight catch. That's the Burr that forms when your two bevels have come together perfectly. Try the finger nail test, cutting paper/plastic wrap or shaving some hair. It helps to run the Ceramic over each side once first, to remove the Burr.

-Once you have the edge you're looking for, use the Ceramic to polish the edge. Keep the same angle and use the same technique as with the Diamond. Depending on how course the Diamond is you may have to work the Ceramic longer. Polishing the edge removes any burrs that have formed during sharpening and the polish helps the edge to wear less, lasting longer.


The key holding a consistent angle. Once you master that, sharpening will be quick and easy.

TL;DR: Use the Diamond at a consistent angle along the blade until a burr forms, then use the Ceramic at the same angle to remove the bur and polish the edge.


Once the blade is sharp, an occasional touch up with the Ceramic should keep it sharp for quite a while.

Using a stone/sand paper is much easier, but less portable. Just master the angle and you'll be doing fine.


I came across this on YouTube looking for something to help you visualize what I'm talking about, I almost spit coffee on my monitor when I saw him using a cinder block.



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