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rednelo03 · 09-02-2009, 07:46 PM

I found this site to be a great intro. Well written and easy to digest the basics. It was my crash course when I got my DSLR, and I am sooo glad I read it.

Damnit... I just went to the page to get the link and my virus scan told me to turn back. Anyway.. Here's my dump of hints:

Google the rule of thirds.

Never use a direct flash or a flash at all if not necessary.

The ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture form a balance to reach the optimal development. So, many cameras will adjust the other two parts when you change one.

Generally, you want to Max out the ISO, with enough shutter speed to keep it from being blurry. If you have a Tripod, use 100 (in good light), 200 for hand-held shots of stationary objects, 400 for moving things including falling water when you want to catch the drips, 800 for low light or when you are in low light, but the object is in high light. 1600 for extreme cases of this... think museum or aquarium.

Slow down the shutter speed when you want to capture and express motion, or if you are in a dark spot with a flash. (The flash can serve as a shutter of sorts... try this out on lightning) Remember to use a tripod if you slow it down a lot. You want to capture the motion of the object not the shaking of your hand.

Lower the aperture (higher F stop) if you want more depth... Open it to let more light in when you need a faster shutter.

Shoot in color always, you can switch to B&W on your computer later.

Zoom in to autofocus, then zoom out to the right frame.

Try to use a telephoto lens when photographing people, especially children... ok that didn't sound right...

The point is that people are more likely to look comfortable if you don't have a camera stuck in their face. Leave space for the object to look into. Unless you want to add the feeling of curiosity, then purposefully restrict the viewers' aspect.

Be mindful of what you are trying to share with the potential viewer before you snap the picture. The photo should be more than a new perspective, but the perspective that maximize conveyance of the story, experience, or shared feeling.

Keep a mental note of scenarios that convey feelings, so you can add them later. For example... Take a picture of a someone standing 25 feet away but in between pillars which are 10 feet away from you. First zoom in so that the pillars are not in the picture, there is a comfortable closeness. Zoom out so that part of the pillars show and you will notice that the framing of the shot portrays a slight feeling of claustrophobia or restriction. Zoom back so that you can see the outsides of the pillars and there is a feeling of separation from the viewer.

One more thing... get Lightroom 2 for post processing. Photoshop might be bigger and better, but I find it overwhelming.

That's all I got.....

09-02-2009, 07:46 PM	#19 (permalink)
rednelo03 Upright	I found this site to be a great intro. Well written and easy to digest the basics. It was my crash course when I got my DSLR, and I am sooo glad I read it. Damnit... I just went to the page to get the link and my virus scan told me to turn back. Anyway.. Here's my dump of hints: Google the rule of thirds. Never use a direct flash or a flash at all if not necessary. The ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture form a balance to reach the optimal development. So, many cameras will adjust the other two parts when you change one. Generally, you want to Max out the ISO, with enough shutter speed to keep it from being blurry. If you have a Tripod, use 100 (in good light), 200 for hand-held shots of stationary objects, 400 for moving things including falling water when you want to catch the drips, 800 for low light or when you are in low light, but the object is in high light. 1600 for extreme cases of this... think museum or aquarium. Slow down the shutter speed when you want to capture and express motion, or if you are in a dark spot with a flash. (The flash can serve as a shutter of sorts... try this out on lightning) Remember to use a tripod if you slow it down a lot. You want to capture the motion of the object not the shaking of your hand. Lower the aperture (higher F stop) if you want more depth... Open it to let more light in when you need a faster shutter. Shoot in color always, you can switch to B&W on your computer later. Zoom in to autofocus, then zoom out to the right frame. Try to use a telephoto lens when photographing people, especially children... ok that didn't sound right... The point is that people are more likely to look comfortable if you don't have a camera stuck in their face. Leave space for the object to look into. Unless you want to add the feeling of curiosity, then purposefully restrict the viewers' aspect. Be mindful of what you are trying to share with the potential viewer before you snap the picture. The photo should be more than a new perspective, but the perspective that maximize conveyance of the story, experience, or shared feeling. Keep a mental note of scenarios that convey feelings, so you can add them later. For example... Take a picture of a someone standing 25 feet away but in between pillars which are 10 feet away from you. First zoom in so that the pillars are not in the picture, there is a comfortable closeness. Zoom out so that part of the pillars show and you will notice that the framing of the shot portrays a slight feeling of claustrophobia or restriction. Zoom back so that you can see the outsides of the pillars and there is a feeling of separation from the viewer. One more thing... get Lightroom 2 for post processing. Photoshop might be bigger and better, but I find it overwhelming. That's all I got.....