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San Bernardino, Riverside, Kern, Tulare, Shasta... these are all very close to being even, and they each have a fairly large population.
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I'm from Mississippi, and a couple of months ago, I had to fly out to Riverside on business. I'd never set foot in California before, but I had the same (if naive) perception most people do: it's pretty much Liberal-land 24/7.
I met up with a close friend of mine who happens to be a lesbian; she and I and her girlfriend all went out for a bite to eat, then stopped at a gay bar for a drink. There was a "hetero" bar across the way, I heard some people cutting up outside and making a ruckus, but as we walked in, I was barely even paying attention, it was just part of the ambient noise. We have our drinks, hang out for awhile, then leave. As we're going back to the parking garage on the same block as the hetero bar, I finally realize that a bunch of these drunk fucks were . . . actually screaming in the direction of the gay bar. Yelling slurs (as well as general nonsense and gibberish), throwing the word "fags" in there a few times.
I got severely pissed off; my friend just kind of shrugged and said, "Eh, that's Riverside." I looked at her like she told me the moon was made of green cheese, because I simply couldn't believe it. I got a very quick and dirty education on how a good deal of California is, indeed, rather conservative and home to bigots so hardcore, it makes the occasional 60 year-old lifelong racist from where I live look TAME.
Also, fuck Prop 8. Thanks for proving that democracy really IS simply the tyranny of the majority.