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Ahh yess the memories.
Southern California..1981
It is generally not a good idea to stand in 4 inches of surf,
with a 10 or 12 foot wave bearing down on you,
I too have been surfed,
face abraded into the turf,
arms and legs desperately flailing to find 'UP'
The Atlantic Ocean on the East coast off north america,
is a much warmer and gentler lover.
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